My newest lawn ornament

Discussion in 'The Skunkwerks' started by Tom Mandera, Jan 14, 2009.


  1. Tom Mandera

    Tom Mandera Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    The images had better not be gone - I host them, so they won't. :) Maybe it was temporary problem?

    If not, I'll look at it some more..

    I'm trying to avoid the Analysis Paralysis. :)

    Part of that is stuff like "How will I change the spark plugs, and how many panels need to come off to do that?"

    I'd like the big sheets that cover the tunnel to come off first, so you can get to the driveshaft, shifter linkage, etc. - but it's easiest to seal everything up if those panels go on first.. :)
     
  2. Greg Cejka

    Greg Cejka Farmall Cub

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    I can still see the pictures. let me know when you need help and ill come over. I'm great at making snap judgments and worrying about the consequences later
     
    jeff campbell likes this.
  3. Tom Mandera

    Tom Mandera Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    My rear main installation tool - a used container of Costco Soup cut down, and a chunk of PVC pipe.

    It took two seals to get it in straight. Dang.

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    Rear plugs installed
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    727 flexplate spacer, too
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    Flexplate, too - with Permatex #2 on the threads of the flexplate bolts.
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    Motor mounts, oil filter adapter, oil filter.
    https://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/piwigo/_data/i/galleries/TMRacer2/2020/07122020_RacerMotorInstall/IMG_20200712_162749687-me.jpg[img]


    Then I gave it some oil - but only 2-3 quarts for now. What I had left in the jug after the Snow Scout's 392's last cam break in.

    [img]https://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/piwigo/_data/i/galleries/TMRacer2/2020/07122020_RacerMotorInstall/IMG_20200712_144503269-me.jpg

    Then I dug out one of my favorite tools.
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    Custom made by John Landry 20+ years ago now.

    I spun it with the drill and primed the oling system a bit, checking for leaks - note to self, the two screws are missing at the rear of the oil pan, and it leaks there..

    And just for kicks, making sure I'm working on the right engine. Says right here, 345 cubic inches..

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  4. Tom Mandera

    Tom Mandera Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    I thought the front dipstick would be handy. The fuel pump block off plate is too large, but would work. Small block Chevy. It will probably be replaced for other reasons, since I think the timing cover has to come off.
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    On to the next task. This was my original 727 that I rebuilt, then it wound up at Gryphin for a rebuild, and went into the shed for a spare. It's been in there for a long time.

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    Make sure the converter is seated - I goofed that on my first 727 install.

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    Then mate 'em together
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    John Fleck tried to get me to run Mean Green starters for years.. now he sells a different brand, and I have one on the Snow Scout, but Montana GSE supplied this starter a while back..

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    Spark plugs were gapped to .035 and installed. Autolite 85s.
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    Then I moved a bunch of stuff out of the way and got to work.

    This is roughly where it should be..

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    Tight fit going back.
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    I had to actually set it down partway in, put the tranny jack under it, and then re-rig the engine hoist to the front of the block, and roll it back on the jack, because the cross-chain hit the firewall.

    Know what else hit the firewall? The vacuum fitting that used to be here.
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    Finally!

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    I'm thinking the firewall could have just been cut higher and boxed in - possibly even easier than what I have done thus far. I could just box it off at the dash and call it good. Air-cleaner clearance will probably be an issue, perhaps with an offset base or with one of those TBI tops and cone filter instead.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Tom Mandera

    Tom Mandera Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    First question - Black, or Red water tubes?
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    So much for the fun part. My joy was short lived.

    I thought I'd check my alternator and power steering pump clearances.

    Uh... what clearances?

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    The alt-only bracket won't fit with the coil-over mount there.

    Power steering didn't fare any better.

    I went to the shed to see what options I had.

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    The steel stock version didn't fit any better. The AC mount isn't going to help either.

    Neither the stock nor the RPT power steering pump brackets worked. Just the brackets, not the pump yet.

    The alternator protrudes behind the front of the motor, so it either has to go outside of the engine (like the stock alternator mount does) or under and outside (like the AC bracket does)... or perhaps it can go OVER the valve cover.

    To do that, I will have to remove and replace the timing cover. I thought the front oil fill would be an advantage for this setup, but I turned the valve covers around and that will work out OK (until I put the alternator on the valve cover) and I need the space where the front fill is.
    I might also need to rethink the front dip stick for the same reason.

    After I R&R the timing cover, I'll get a water pump in place along with the distributor to make sure I know what I have - then maybe I can go up and put the alternator roughly in the notch between the valve cover and the distributor, or put it right over the valve cover.

    I have the advantage that the engine sits lower in the chassis.

    Either that, or I have to cut the uprights.

    I can't go under - at least, not much. This would be the side where the diff is.

    Maybe I can build a smaller version of the AC bracket, after the filler is gone.

    The stock bracket is heavy, but it also positions the alternator over the frame - and that's not going to fit for me.
    [​IMG]

    On the power steering front, I think I can, again, go-high to make it fit. Put the pump above the valve cover.

    I could get some plate and weld to my RPT pump bracket, or maybe Jeff's refit kit [​IMG] will do the job.

    That, or I will look some more and see where my smog-pump with PS bracket went and see if that helps at all - but I don't think it does.

    Or I go pull the old style pump and bracket off something else - they tended to be higher and tighter.

    Something to ponder after some sleep, before I do something rash.

    I should've checked when the mock up 304 was in there - it didn't have any accessories. I didn't think to check if it had been built with accessories in mind.

    Either things go up a bit, or I cut one tube out of the uprights and contemplate how to patch it decently.
     
  6. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Do you remember what torque converter that was with the gear on it,was it a dodge one.If I remember correctly 80's school bus alt. sit up higher.
     
  7. Tom Mandera

    Tom Mandera Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    I agree it is probably a Dodge unit, but I've long forgotten what it came from if I ever knew - Comer supplied it. The converter in the transmission I last raced on also has the ring gear on it. That transmission still works, but got some dust and dirt in it when the converter fell out as I was dragging it back into the shop - so I should freshen it up.

    Probably not the right stall for this setup any more, but I'll run it.

    Thanks, Jeff, now to find some 1980s school bus engine pictures.. or an engine in the junkyard. :D
     
  8. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Its funny because I would remember what the converter was from when I next needed one,dont need one now so its not important.
     
  9. Tom Mandera

    Tom Mandera Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Doug through a bunch of old emails - I'm pretty sure it is a rebuilt converter that Comer sourced from the local tranny shop.

    Hard to find another just like it. :p It would have been a 2200-2800rpm stall, and this setup may want more, but that's still pretty close. The 5.88s should help make up for any lost hole shot.

    I do have a tranny brake I could install, but haven't. Maybe when I rebuild the now-spare. It doesn't have compression braking in 1st gear and could be a risk of overrunning the drum and having it explode at an inopportune time - and the drum and planetaries are that much closer to me now.
     
  10. Tom Mandera

    Tom Mandera Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    I have an order in with IH Parts America - Mike Dimock sent me some pictures this morning and it looks promising.
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    I also found they sell nifty kits for mounting the alternator to the Ford 9" rear axle I already have installed.. but I'm not that stoked about the idea. There has to be a better way to pull this off.

    Jeff, the bus mounts I could find pictures of all looked to be higher, but still outside the valve cover and I think I need to be above it, like the power steering bracket. I'll look at it all some more tonight - including a closer look at whether I can stuff it under the driver's side engine mount, where the Chevy Dana 44 pumpkin isn't.

    I did a quick look for Dana 20 PTOs for sale and only found Bronco versions, so there won't be a PTO driven alternator under the Scout, either. :D That would be preferable to the diff mount, but still not ideal - makes it hard to sit still and let things cool down - unless I put the Dana 20 into neutral and let the 727 spin, but then you have to shut it off to re-engage the transfercase.
     

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