My newest lawn ornament

Discussion in 'The Skunkwerks' started by Tom Mandera, Jan 14, 2009.


  1. Tom Mandera

    Tom Mandera Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    ..arrived last night, thanks to Montana GSE's delivery crew that were headed through yesterday (and before that, to Chris Keck for getting it up from Denver to Montana)

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    I'm probably not going to make much progress for a bit.. first I need to clean out the shop a bit more to make room (and quickly), then a ton of sanding to get the surface rust back off.. but next week kid #2 shows up and all plans become subject to big change. :D

    But there's a tall-deck SV block, stroked crank, and lightened rods in the shop asking for some attention before we're through, too.
     
  2. Mark Ashford

    Mark Ashford Moderator.. or something Staff Member Moderator

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    What a pile of junk.


    I hope that's primer, not rust.... but sounds like its rust :eek:



    kind of crappy the deal for that went the way it did, but at least you have it now. now toss some skins on it at get to it!!!
     
  3. Tom Mandera

    Tom Mandera Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    The only paint on it is what came on the donor body tub when it left Fort Wayne.

    Lots of scotch-brite and media blasting and wire wheeling in my future before much else happens.

    Skins are still in Billings but will be here before I need them. Fiberglass 118" rear panels, steel front. The coil-overs are still in Billings, too.

    Only so much room on the trailer / in the truck.
     
  4. Chris Keck

    Chris Keck Farmall Cub

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    Tom, good to see you got it to your place, you got the Comer engne and parts right? Dam that thing rusted pretty quick, mostliky from the snow storm i hit right out side of Penrose to Denver when i hauled it up there.
     
  5. Ki Areese

    Ki Areese Binder Driver

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    Nice rig, seriously. Looks like a fun project to me..

    Not sure how much money it would cost or how much you'd want to spend, but wouldn't it be easier just the POR 15 right over the rust and be done with it?
     
  6. Robert JetFxr

    Robert JetFxr High Wheeler

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    Better get the plates on it before the neighborhood Nazis get after a unroadworthy Scout:taz:
     
  7. lev1a

    lev1a High Wheeler

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    Holycow man ............... Long time comin HUH. Glad to see you FINALY got your hands on it. Have fun with it.
     
  8. BO185

    BO185 Y-Block King

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    HOLY RUSTED METAL!

    Now get to work swapping:tt2: in a Chevy engine!!!!:D
     
  9. Tom Mandera

    Tom Mandera Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Funny you should mention that.. when I left this morning after taking those pictures, I silently wondered if there'd be a note from the County on my door before I got home. :D

    I'm still waiting on the paperwork (title) to arrive in the mail (along with those sway-bar end links) so I can plate it and keep folks from harassing me more than they will anyhow. :D

    Chris, the block, lightened rods, pistons and crank are all stashed in the garage. Haven't done much with 'em other than set 'em inside and did notice the rods had been lightened, but not polished yet.

    I'm still undecided on exactly what to do for heads, but I have some time.

    Sure should be fun when it's done. :D

    POR15 would be an excellent way to go, except it isn't done, and there's still more tube work to get done, so it needs cleaned up where I need to weld.

    For instance, the front engine area needs some changes.

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    The front "halo" is welded to the A pillar, and there's a diagonal back down to the frame, but it isn't tied into the rest of the cage. I think I want to punch a hole through the firewall, probably down and in a bit, and come forward from the A-pillar of the cage and pick up the diagonal going down to the frame from the front halo.

    I also need to change the front of it. I need an over-engine-bar gusset, a radiator mount, and I want to X the front behind the grille and either cut the top out, or make it removable.

    Idea on that is so with the removeable parts out, I'd have a "V" or two between the harmonic balancer and the front of the Scout, so I can get the engine and transmission out without having to go WAY up and over.

    I'm sure there will be plenty more that will need adjusted - and that's before the first time I race it and find out what I *really* don't like or doesn't work. :D

    I need bumpers, hang the skins...

    That is SOOOO tempting. *SO* tempting.

    But since the engine is shoved back 12" already and it's set up for the SV engine, and there's a pile of SV parts in the garage.. I'm going to give it one more go with an IH power plant.

    I have some sponsors making it not as painful as it could be.. but if it was all coming out of my pocket, I'd be much more serious about spotting an LS take-out from something.

    In the meantime, I do have a 4-bolt 350 core in the shed just in case. ;)

    Michelle is due to deliver another baby girl next week, and all shop projects will be on hold for a while. I'll be lucky if I get the doors back on my trail Scout and take the oldest girl out for a few winter wheelin' trips before the snow is gone. Joleigh loves to go wheelin', ride in the Scout, and go for rides in the old race Scout, so that's good. And she even plays "throw the dried mud off dad's trailer" really well, too.

    I intend this one to be street-legal (like the previous one) and *streetable* to some extent.. and I'll be taking her to daycare in it at least once when it's done. :D
     
  10. R290

    R290 High Wheeler

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    You guys are way overdoing the rust. Like tom said, some scotch brite /wire wheel and your good to go. Get some of that hammerite paint and have at it. It encapsulates the rust like Por, but 1/10th the price.

    Tom I have some Ruffstuff parts laying around that might come in handy for removable cage parts. What size tubing is on the cage?

    Once you get some time (warm weather) and when the skins go on, then some stickers!! it will be bad *** looking!! You know Tom were expecting something other than flat black here. Maybe IH RED!!

    You could add a Baja kit, so it's "street legal" that way you can hang a license plate on it too.
     
  11. Tom Mandera

    Tom Mandera Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    I have a gallon or two of ZeroRust. I painted the old racer with ZR with fair results. It's faded some and definitely lost it's luster since then (even though I cleared it), but it's also been covered in alkali mud and bashed on by other competitors since then, too.

    ZR is around $50/gallon, and isn't full of isocyanites like POR15.

    Most (all?) of it is 2". Some seamed, some DOM. The main (A/B) structure was supposed to be DOM, and then a lot of the "not really needed but why not" stuff was to be HREW - and ideally, some of that stuff is really thin wall, but I haven't confirmed.

    If you have some 2"x.120 DOM that you built something out of, and you want to add "yet another gusset" it's better to use 2" OD rather than 1.75 or 1.5" so the gusset doesn't punch through the stuff it's gussetting.

    At the same time, you don't want to add more weight than necessary, so .083 or 2x.065 is a good choice for things that shouldn't take a direct hit. Lots of strength, less weight, less expense (they still sell steel by the pound)

    I have a body & paint sponsor. His son rode with me in Powell last year and had a great time. :D

    I need to make up another set of body panels, though.. plan is for some "show" panels and some "go" panels. I really need to take up fiberglass as yet another hobby I don't have time for. ;)

    At the moment, I'm thinking IH RED, too.. with black stripes on the quarters. Just invert the current scheme.

    That's my intention. I need wipers and head lights to be street legal in Montana. The cage was built so I have the option of dropping a windshield frame in place, too (which is optional in Montana, but the wipers are required)

    I'm thinking permanently mounted mufflers, too, to keep it neighbor and street friendly. It still won't be quiet, of course.

    I just have this itch to drive a steekered up, coil-overed, mid-engine 392'd, 5.86, spooled Scout to work.

    I'll probably get a talking to about the black streaks throughout the parking lot, but it'd be fun.
     
  12. BO185

    BO185 Y-Block King

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    It looks a lot better in the later pictures!

    The Sv looks great pushed back and lowered that would to a lot to move the weight the back and lower the CG.


    Why can you have no windshield yet still have to have wipers? Just carry a squeegee and you should be good to go!
     
  13. Tom Mandera

    Tom Mandera Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    The lower picture is an earlier one. It's from November when I went to visit the Scout in Billings.

    That was the plan - get some weight off the front axle.

    It also helps with driveline angles and to get more travel out of things, since the front and rear driveshafts should be about the same IIRC.

    I think the rear will be ~40" and the front ~36". That helps with trying to pull 16" of travel out of the front axle (16x2.5 C/O).

    The rear axle is setup to come up past "horizontal" putting the pinion higher than the rear output at full bump. Combine that with the 16x2.5 C/O mounted to the trailing arm, and I'm expecting 20+" of travel.

    The downside to all of that is the front driveshaft and the 727. The driveshaft can't go beyond horizontal, or it hits the bulge on the RF of the transmission. I'm probably going to have to put a 2-piece driveshaft in, with the carrier bearing mounted near the front of the transmission, and a CV joint.

    Just a funny law. You have to have eye protection (goggles/glasses/helmet) and you must have wipers, but the windshield itself is totally optional.

    Thus my current racer has a cowl plate with wipers, but no blades and no motor - it's just as useful as if the hardware was there, since the windshield is actually some wire mesh strung from A-pillar to pillar to keep the big chunks from coming in.
     
  14. R290

    R290 High Wheeler

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    Good tip on the gussets. I did use some of those "normal" triangle plate gussets here and there on mine. I have some plates that you weld the tube to and then bolt the ends together. I think there 1.5

    Wow 2" x.065 that is thin. I need to add some more tubing to my cage, so I should get a stick of thin wall, as you said it's by the pound.
     
  15. Tom Mandera

    Tom Mandera Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    I think the triangle gussets are just fine, too. What I've learned on those is it's better to place them on the outside of the tube, than "in the corner" - again, because "in the corner" sometimes the gusset acts like a punch and punches through the wall of the cage.

    Putting it on the outside does put more stress on the welds, but IIRC overall it's a stronger place.

    Naturally, plating both sides (inside and outside, so to speak) is still better.. but now we're starting to get into the "plate fabrication" the high-end shops do.

    I need to get / make something like that before I'm done for those removable braces at the top of the engine bay area.

    .083 is probably easier to find, easier to weld, and not much heavier.

    Primary thing is to not go nuts using .120 everywhere when it isn't needed. You can probably easily chew up one stick of light-gauge on a build just for gussets and minor stiffening points, so why not.

    Here's an example of where some thin-gauge would be useful.

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    When it originally looked like this:

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    I was a bit concerned about "wracking" of the whole structure, due to the lack of triangles. Also, after adding the fuel cell in the back, weight / strength becomes an issue before you even consider that I need a rear bumper.

    The diagonal tubes are primarily there to make sure we have triangles to keep it from folding under stress. They're not really intended to take an impact, though they do protect the fuel cell (which is a plastic bladder inside the steel box) somewhat.

    I don't know that the diagonals are .083 or anything, but they're not DOM. That much we can tell.
     
  16. Robert JetFxr

    Robert JetFxr High Wheeler

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    Tom honeymoon with the thing do what ever you need and we can have it sandblasted before Rob squirts paint. I can have a shop here in Billings that uses a special media that is not very abrasive. Oh and I am very curious about the weight of the thing:whistling: ...........
     
  17. Tom Mandera

    Tom Mandera Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Didn't get the shop cleaned out enough this weekend to get the thing inside yet, though I did buy a big box of ScotchBrite pads.. :D

    Had a minute to take this picture, though. Comparing a stock connecting rod with one of the lightened rods. They'll get lighter once I polish..

    [​IMG]
     
    Slewis325 likes this.
  18. Damian Grihalva

    Damian Grihalva High Wheeler

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    Ya, a good media-blast should clean that right up.

    Glad to see this hasn't gone to the wayside. I look forward to seeing it get finished.

    My vote is to stay with the SV motor ~ but I'm stupid that way.
     
  19. Aaron Snare

    Aaron Snare Farmall Cub

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    about time you got this thing in you're jun.... i mean project pile. Have fun with the sanding and buffing:tt2:
     
  20. BERMUDA KEN

    BERMUDA KEN Farmall Cub

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    To quote my friends on the beachfront........that looks tubular!!! (literally)!!!
     

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