My Holley 2300 rebuild

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by BioTex, Dec 1, 2011.


  1. BioTex

    BioTex High Wheeler

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    I'm going to attempt to rebuild the carb. I'll start by using the 37-1543 kit, but understand I may need to order some other parts from Holley. Since I'm not in a hurry, I will order as I need things.

    I opened the kit, and first thing I notice is there are two gaskets for the carb base. The thicker fiber one has holes that are too large. My research has led me to believe that is for the larger cfm carb. Mine is a smaller cfm, but I'm not sure which.

    428083-C91
    LIST 6394

    So here is a picture of the base of the carb, and the smaller of the two gaskets. Does this gasket look like it is correct for this carb? I'm not convinced I have the correct rebuild kit yet.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     

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  2. 250gibson

    250gibson Binder Driver

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    You need the gasket with the protrusion that extends under the fuel bowl. It does not come in a Holley Kit
     
  3. Greg R

    Greg R Lives in an IH Dealership

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    I've found the 37-1543 kit to be the best for 2300's.

    For the base gasket I like the Felpro 60677 as the thickness with a heat dam that shields the fuel bowl has prevented percolation issues on hot days. Close is good enough for the gasket port size on the downstream side of the throttle body; I've only used ones with the holes separated. The upstream gasket between the throttle body and carb is critical.
     
  4. Eric VanBuren

    Eric VanBuren Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Yup you want to get the proper heat dam gasket pictured below that Greg posted and throw those base gaskets away. Not in-stock but available at Napa

    [​IMG]
     
  5. gerk

    gerk Farmall Cub

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    Going to be a great thread for me. I plan on doing mine and follow these guides.

    My 2300 has a slight hesitation right at the beginning. I think its a accelerator pump. What do you think?
    Ive brought the car from 0 elevation to 6300 ft. Could that be the issue at all?

    Thanks and excited to follow along. Great timing
     
  6. Albuq. Henry

    Albuq. Henry Binder Driver

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    Im interested on which gaskets you use on the bowl screws, I wasnt happy how mine came out. Also the same for the gasket for the cross tip screw that holds down the squirt nozzle.
     
  7. BioTex

    BioTex High Wheeler

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    Man you guys sure know how to turn up the pressure! Hope I don't dissapoint. :sweatdrop: Going to pick up a gallon can of carb cleaner tonight. Hope to do a teardown with photos.

    Do you think the wifey will notice any smell from the whole operation? It's going to be way too cold tonight for any garage time. Our office is toasty warm, good lighting, computer right there for help... If you don't hear from me by tomorrow noon, please make sure the wifey sells my scout for what it is really worth, not how much I told her I had in it.
    :D
     
  8. Eric VanBuren

    Eric VanBuren Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Don't dip the carb in the office. Maybe dis-assemble and put the parts in thoroughly dried off carb dip basket in there and then carry them to the can in the garage and let them soak out there. When you go out to remove them take a bucket of Hot water to dunk the basket for an initial rinse before you bring them back in.
     
  9. Jay Tabor

    Jay Tabor Banned

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    I use the gaskets for the acc pump squirt nozzle that are in the rebuild kit.
    I use barry grant thick clear nylon washer for the bowl screws.
    I gave up on the paper gaskets for bowl screws last century.
    those are usually a 'one use' paper thin gasket, and if you pull a screw out later the gasket rips/tears and then a leak might develop at that particular screw>
    and I make/use 2.75" long flanged hex head bowl screws to give the screws enough length to bite the threads and not strip out when tightening them.
    the original screws with a flat blade screwdriver slot are too short.
     
  10. BioTex

    BioTex High Wheeler

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    Do I need to tear the carb down any further in order to soak it overnight?

    The pump discharge screw is still inside. I'm not sure if it will remove with the choke butterfly still attached.

    Edit: I was able to remove the discharge nozzle, needle & both gaskets. So is that everything?

    Here are the two pieces I'm not sure about:

    [​IMG]
     

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  11. scoutboy74

    scoutboy74 Lives in an IH Dealership

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    I'd say its soak time. There's really no cleaning advantage to be gained by removing the throttle plates. Those brass screws can be quite stubborn to remove and being brass, they are susceptible to screwdriver damage.
     
  12. BioTex

    BioTex High Wheeler

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    Exactly what I was hoping to confirm. Thanks.

    And yes, I have twisted off those brass screws before. I do not want to revisit that ordeal.
     
  13. Greg R

    Greg R Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Check for steady strong streams from the accelerator circuit or "pump shot".
    Timing of the pump shot is also very important. At the WOT position, there should be a .015" clearance between the pump lever arm and the adjusting screw. Even though the adjusting screw is spring loaded, a .015" clearance exists so: 1. the throttle doesn't bottom out on the pump arm 2. it's not too sloppy and delay the pump action.

    Check that the cam follower or slide(that the plastic accelerator pump cam rides on) that activates the accelerator pump linkage is absolutely smooth. Many times they can get grooved and rough and delay pump action.
     
  14. BioTex

    BioTex High Wheeler

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    Update.

    Got all the parts cleaned up except the main body. It is in the can now.

    I sprayed carb cleaner through every orifice severl time, and blew with compressed air. I am 100% certain every orifice is clear. I rinsed them in hot water, and blew them dry.

    Here is what I have so far.

    [​IMG]
     

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  15. BioTex

    BioTex High Wheeler

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    My carb is a R6394.

    The spec sheet that came with the kit has a 6394A, -1A, & -2A listed.

    I'm going to have to go with the 6394A settings.

    Question: Can someone explain what the .200" choke qualify setting is?

    Dechoke = .230" ???

    Choke index = 1NL ??? ( I think this means the black choke housing should be rotated 1 Notch to the lean side (CW), but would appreciate a confirmation on this setting)

    Edit: Nevermind on the choke qualify question. I just found my answer. I had missed it somehow before, but it is in the directions that came with the kit. It is measured at the bottom edge of the choke plate, and adjusted by bending the link.
    Such small print.
     
  16. BioTex

    BioTex High Wheeler

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    adjusting the float

    [​IMG]

    My main jets are 52s
    Power Valve is 6.5
    [​IMG]
     

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    Last edited: Dec 4, 2011
  17. BioTex

    BioTex High Wheeler

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    Here is a potential problem maybe someone can tell me if it is go or no go.

    The new gasket on top of the old gasket shows the area to the left that is uncovered.

    The second shot shows the new gasket on top of the throttle body, and you can see the passage that will be uncovered.

    What do I do?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here are the two side by side

    [​IMG]
     

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  18. scoutboy74

    scoutboy74 Lives in an IH Dealership

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    I don't think that's a concern. Zipping flame suit now. Even your old gasket did not completely seal off that passage. It has the same pre-cut hole on the outside edge as the new one does. Hold off for additional opinions though.
     
  19. BioTex

    BioTex High Wheeler

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    I sure hope so, but it appears to me that that area will be open to the outside air, and be a vacuum leak.
     
  20. Thomas

    Thomas Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    ---You are correct. It will* be a vacuum leak. You need the gasket that has the one flat edge, just like the old one. If you can find a cross to the Walker part needed, so be it, but other than that you'll probably be better off making them yourself... which means purchasing one large punch for the throttle plate holes, that costs roughly $15-$65 (even $115!!!), depending on where you get it. That IIRC will be a 1-7/16", but you have one you can measure. Small hole punches come in kits (from places like Harbor Freight and such) or can be made from tubular steel with one tapered/sharpened end & one plugged/welded end to tap on with small hammer.

    ---I have no problem using the OEM Bowl Screws with reusable bowl & metering plate gaskets, even combined with the nylon bowl screw washers. You just have to make certain that your threads are good... and no, they shouldn't be square. Square=damaged threads from over-torquing over the years. New can be purchased cheap off eBay by a few sellers and from performance shops for slightly more.

    ---You will not want to use that Accelerator Pump Diaphragm, the power valve that came with the kit, nor the float. None of them are alcohol-approved. You need the GFLT pump diaphragm that is green/blue in color and a performance fuel companies power valve cause Holley doesn't make one for the new fuels yet. It makes no sense to put the parts in if they won't last long. Life of the carb will be prolonged if you only have to tear into it once every 3-10 years. Excessive disassembly will cause damage, especially when you "tighten the screws until their about to strip". There is no need for over-tightening any fastener, unless the ulterior motive is to damage the carb... like for "job security" and speaking of, that main body gasket's Walker P/N is G1083.

    ---Check my post (#10) in the Useful Part Number List thread for a few Holley 2300 numbers I have compiled, like the Holley 108-52 Base Plate Gasket that would be a better choice due to the size of the throttle bores & having a full heat shield rather than one notched for clearance of a 50cc accelerator pump's arm (yours is 30cc). Use your browser's find function (Ctrl+f) to search for "alcohol" (no qutoes).
     

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