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Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Rjones, Sep 2, 2018.
Couple more pics of the tank.
So finally got the fuel line ran. I started this whole fuel tank thing because the stock one was leaking, which I found out just as I was going to try this other carb I bought, the 500 Holley. Today I finally got to fire it up with that carb. I took a chance (I don't know why, I'm an idiot is all I can say) and just bolted this used carb on without rebuilding it, after I replaced the messed up bowl..... That was a bad idea, leaked big time from the accelerator pump. So the carb is back off, cleaned and ready to go again. I am going to put in smaller jets while it's off, which I ordered today. I've read that this carb is too big and won't work very well. I've also read that it's fine and people had no problem with it. I guess I'll find out. I got it cheap enough that if it totally doesn't work, I can sell it hopefully fairly easily and get a 350cfm.
My friend finished the exhaust! Now if it will actually run......
Finally!! Got the carb on with leaks fixed, exhaust is on and sounds good, got a hole cut in the inner fender for a bigger battery, and had to move it anyway to clear the power steering. The carb made a huge difference, just starting and idling anyway, still haven't driven it.
A couple new problems - got a pretty good rod knock sound..... The way my luck goes is if I pull the pan to check things out, that'll lead to something else, and that'll lead to something else...pretty soon the engine is out and in pieces. I don't want to do that. I'm hoping somebody has a bright idea about some miracle cure I can pour in and miraculously make everything all good. I'm kidding. BUT, if somebody does have something like that, you know, I'll probably try it.
Another thing, the new carb doesn't have a port for the vacuum advance. While I was looking online to see what people did in this case, I found alot of people saying just use the regular vacuum port in the baseplate and call it good, and the reasoning made sense.
Still haven't done anything with the front springs........
You can hear the knocking sound here pretty well. I've done some reading, seems like these engines are known to have knocking sounds up front, piston slap is common as well as the fuel pump?
Guess this would be like colors on different screens but sounds like a sticky lifter.
That was my first thought, or hope, too, but it's definitely louder, or at least seems louder, under the truck.
Sounds like the accelerator pump linkage is not adjusted correctly.
the fuel pump sounds like a dull thunk..thunk etc. That sound appears to be a lifter.
A non-knock related question, I have three wires coming out of the plug in the middle of the firewall, in between the wipers and master cylinder. I assumed these were for the gauges because one of the wires goes to the oil sender. That gauge actually worked until recently, not sure what's up with that..... Where do the other two go?
One of the wires is hooked to a flasher? My test light flashes when the key is on or running anyway. ??
Ok, SO, yesterday I installed 1 of the 4x4 springs in the front, then today decided that I would rather have a little better ride, so I put the 2wd one back in....after I replaced the one broken leaf and the bushings. Today, I took this thing for a slow drive down the street!!! Among a few other issues, it made this horrible screeching, rubbing, grinding sound. After a little looking, it turns out it was the carrier bearing. The bearing itself is new, but there's a dust shield looking thing on the front section of the driveshaft that is rubbing on the outer shell of the carrier bearing. I forgot to take a picture....... I need to take it apart I guess and either bend that dust shield, or adjust the bearing or something. I've never had anything with a carrier bearing, I'm not 100% sure what it's supposed to look like.
On mine those three wires are oil pressure, heat temp sender up front and to the coil.
Finally got around to putting the new heater core back in the box. I think I messed up though. The one cable that runs through the top and out the front......not sure how I can put that back without taking it back apart or just getting REALLY lucky. I probably should have strung a wire through there first to pull it back through. I still need to rebuild the vent that goes on top, but I'm getting there.
IIRC, that cable connects to the flap/diverter on the face of the box.
Yep, that's the one.
Replaced the flap and added some metal to replace some of the rusted away stuff. I figure even though the flap isn't a perfect fit, it's better than a big hole, or a completely sealed off hole. Still need to make the piece that goes above the heater box that this will attach to. I'll add some tabs and seal it up.
I decided rather than take things apart, I would just cut the dust shield off, or at least make it smaller so it wouldn't rub. Haven't driven it since then, but it should at least be quieter. Did manage to get it turned around. You can see the gas tank better, doesn't hang down past the hitch.