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Discussion in 'Injection Tech' started by MrKenmore, May 19, 2018.
Very good write up Matt ! Nice job.Very impressive.
Awesome write up! Thanks for documenting.
Nice job. Can't wait for the rest.
Thanks for the write up. Looking forward to hearing how you like it
Bill provides an inline fuel pump that you find on a Ford F-250 pickup truck I believe. As per the installation manual, you want to have the pump below the bottom of the fuel tank. The passenger side frame rail provides a perfect location. It allows nice easy access as you can see it through the rear wheel well. An inline filter which goes before the pump is also provided. To secure it, I decided to drill and tap 1/4-20 holes in the top of the frame rail. The straps provided by Bill with the fuel pump have a hole which is probably a 6MM. That's just a little too tight for a 1/4" bolt. I opened up the hole in the strap a little bit with a bastard file. My original install used regular hex head bolts. Given the way the strap was positioned, it made installation, tightening and everything else rather difficult.
You can also see in the above pic I used nylon spacers to stand off straps from the frame rail. Please ignore my lousy grounding wiring job. This gets corrected soon!
I ditched the hex head bolts and went to socket head bolts. Much easier to install. You can see how the strap and fuel pump tilt towards the bolt so getting a ratchet on a bolt head is almost impossible. Using an allen key is no problem! I also installed a proper ground to the frame rail. Here's a tip! The frame has 17/64" holes all over. That is the perfect hole size for a 5/16-18 tap thread! I used one of these holes for the fuel pump ground. Clean the surface real good!!!!
Looks good right? Well almost. As many of us know, electric fuel pumps have a very noticeable whine to them. MrsKenmore was not digging it and neither was I. I figured it just needed more isolation from the frame. I ordered from eBay 1/4-20 rubber isolators! 1" diameter and 3/4" tall.
And now with the fuel pump.......
The isolators totally worked and nearly eliminated the whine. Now I only hear the rubble of the mighty 196!!!!!
Very nicely done... I’m wrapping up an install of an AFI TBI for my 345 S2. I’ll be refereinging this post as I finish up in the next two weeks.
Supply and Return Fuel Lines
The stock setup is a 5/16" nylon fuel with rubber transitions at each end as they come close to the fuel pump and fuel tank respectively. I decided to go all new for my fuel lines. The FI system needs a 3/8" supply line and a 5/16" return line. I considered many different materials - nylon, rubber rated for FI, stainless brake line. I decided to go with nickel copper hard lines that I purchased from Amazon. I picked up 25 foot rolls of each (which is far more than you need). The 5/16" was $48/roll and the 3/8" was $53/roll. To make the transitions to the TBI, fuel pump and tank, I purchased Gates Barricade MPI fuel line in 5/16" (27314)and 3/8" (27341). Both were 25' rolls. The Gates Barricade MPI fuel line is fuel injection rated. For clamps, I got fuel injection style clamps from Jeg's. The only other component you will need is a 3/8" to 5/16" fuel line brass adapter. You are left with a 5/16" rubber hose coming from the fuel tank pick up. Jeg's has the part for this (15496).
The NiCopp line is very easy to work with. Bends were very nice. My 3/8 supply is up the passenger side and my return is down the driver side. The return line was actually quite a long run as I was able to shape it nicely onto the fire wall and go all the way back to the tank. If I get bored in the future, I may reroute the supply on the passenger side which would require me to go up and over the driveshaft. I think I can get it into the engine compartment a little nicer and more direct as the supply for the TBI is on the driver side anyway. I had considered this but was a little nervous to do more complicated bending as a first try. For the flaring, I used the a Rigid 33927 kit. I followed Bill's advice to go not quite all the way on stage one of the inverted flare. If you do go all the way, the fuel line will be nearly impossible to get over. I tried one as a test to get used to the tool. I secured the supply line with 3/8 metal rubber cushion clamps. Return line is secured with 5/16 heavy duty nylon clamps. For the return, I did transition from securing to the body to securing to the frame. There is a large enough section of line that is flexible to allow for some movement. Here are a lot of pics:
Here you can see the return line come up and be secured to the firewall and also the supply line cross over:
A little support clip I made to hang the supply line from the body:
Transitioning to the pump (remember to ignore my bad ground wire job here!):
Here you can see the transition from the old 5/16" line from the tank to 3/8" line using the Jeg's adapter:
If I ever drop the tank again, I'll likely move the adapter to the tank pickup location so it changes size right away.
Here is the Jeg's adapter:
Any thoughts on how well it has worked now that you have been running with it for awhile?
It's been awesome. I really enjoy it. Very reliable. Cold, hot, rainy - doesn't matter. Always works good! Drove it 1,500 miles round trip to Nationals in Ohio in August 2018. No problem at all.
Thanks. Think that will be my next project.
After dealing with several issues, I must say that you did the correct thing by using Hamilton FI to begin with. I recommend anyone looking for FI for a scout to use HFI and no one else. I learned a lesson by going another route and should have done some more research before doing my install.
I know it's been a long time since you've done this, any other advice, suggestions on this install? What kind of fuel economy change are you seeing?
The system is still doing very well. There's nothing I would have changed in the installation process. An in tank fuel pump would be nice to cut down on noise but then servicing it would be a real pain. I have a new Travelall that I will likely get another HFI kit for.