MrKenmore's Hamilton FI Install

Discussion in 'Injection Tech' started by MrKenmore, May 19, 2018.


  1. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    For the benefit of all the IHers out there on BP, I think it would be helpful to create a thread with my installation of the Hamilton Fuel Injection system. So here we go! I started with a 1978 Scout II Terra with a 196, 4 speed, 3.73's, 29 inch tires, Holley 1940 1 bbl carb, 2WD. The carb did OK in all fairness. Never really any issue. But on a few occasions it did have a rather fussy attitude. I did have a spare 1940 carb that I considered doing a rebuild on but decided to retire the old technology and move on! I attended Bill's seminars at Nationals in 2016 and 2017. Very informative. He walks you through how a carb functions versus a FI system. For those that don't know, Bill's system is based on a GM TBI system using GM parts. I asked quite a few other IHers at 2017 Nationals how they liked their system and all had very positive reviews. So I decided that it would be my 2017-2018 winter project.

    Before you start your installation, I recommend reading the Hamilton FI manual many times. Then read it a few more times! Also good reading is the attached PDF (Swartzendruber). It's geared more towards the GMC Motorhome folks but it provides and excellent understanding on how the system works.

    I figure I'll add new posts for each item to be covered.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 19, 2018
  2. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    What's in the box?
    Well just about everything you need! You get a complete wiring harness, TBI, fuel pump with brackets and filter, O2 sensor, MAP sensor, gaskets, adapter plate for your application, fuel pump blank, distributor (yes as in computer controlled ignition!), ignition control module with heat sink, coil, temp sensor, ECM (computer), fuse block, relays, ALDL USB connector, software. I think that's everything. You got nearly everything to get going. A few items I needed for my install were send and return fuel lines (with associated fittings and adapters), new spark plug wires (you may not need this if you have good wires already), a few brackets, throttle cable bracket (probably the only tricky part - more on this later), high rise air cleaner, new vacuum hose.
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2018
  3. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    O2 Sensor-
    You get a O2 sensor weld in bung. I installed mine facing forward.

    Dropped the flange connection and used a C clamp to hold it in place over the hole I drilled using a hole saw. You'll notice I have a oil pan drain plug in there as I was still going to be driving around with the carb for a little bit.
    20171031_092252.jpg

    Not going to win any welding awards but it is all sealed up. You don't want any leaks. I couldn't drop my exhaust pipe out completely so getting on top was a pain.
    20171031_105440.jpg

    Here's the O2 sensor installed. You can see the starter on the right for some orientation. 20171031_111229.jpg
     
  4. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Firewall Hole
    The point of no return!!! You need to make a 2 inch hole in your firewall. A nice grommet is provided in the kit. Make sure you use a good hole saw. Think carefully about your location. Mine is just above the valve cover and nicely under my Ford style starter solenoid. On the interior, it's above the heater duct.
    20171126_105500.jpg
    Give a few dabs of paint around the raw metal and insert the grommet.
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    On the interior, you need to cut away the insulation. Do yourself a big favor and drop the heating / air duct. It makes things SO much easier. It comes out quite easily with the two nuts on top of it at the transmission hump.
    20171126_105425.jpg

    Time to feed the wiring harness! I fed mine from the engine compartment into the interior.
    20171126_130930.jpg
     
  5. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Carb Removal and TBI Adapter
    Time to take off that pesky carb and everything attached to it! You will remove the vacuum lines, fuel line, hot air choke assist riser line (196 only), throttle cable linkage, air cleaner, air cleaner supports. Here's what I started with.
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    The 196 crowd has a simple single opening.
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    You need to remove the studs to install the TBI adapter. Use the provided gasket and do a thin layer of RTV as per the manual for each side.
    20171126_192932.jpg

    Now use the RTV to fill in the bolts holes.
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    Last edited: May 21, 2018
  6. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    TBI
    You can now start playing around with the TBI. Make sure you use the gasket. If you install without, you'll incorrectly think the adapter is not cut out enough for the throttle blades. I know this because during my mock up phase I did not put the gasket in as you can see in the picture. It's a perfect fit with the gasket. TBI is secured with three 5/16 bolts. I have read some other TBI folks use threaded rod installed first so the gasket and TBI drop on top. Not a bad idea I suppose. Bolts work perfectly fine. Go easy when screwing in. Make sure you have the threads aligned. Aluminum is a soft metal! And don't overtighten like a crazy person!
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    Houston we have a problem!!!! Specific to the 196, there are some minor clearance issues with the front facing vacuum ports. I spoke to Bill and it was a simple mistake that these weren't trimmed before the kit was sent out. No big deal. Shortened them up and capped. Nothing gets connected to these ports.
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    Capped and shortened.
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    Bill provides caps but I found these nice caps on Amazon.
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    For reference
    1534SB_TB_back.jpg

    Picture below identifies each port but I didn't use any. My TBI didn't have "Right Manifold Vacuum" port.
    1534SB_TB_front.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2018
  7. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Temp Sensor
    It's important to locate the temp sensor in a good location. For the 196 crowd, use the thermostat housing. Do yourself a favor and get a set of 8 point sockets to remove the square head plug.
    20171015_124711-1.jpg
    I happened to have a 1/2" NPT tap so I chased out the threads to clean them real nice.
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    The new temp sensor will need an adapter to go from 3/8" NPT to 1/2" NPT.
    20171215_161747.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2018
  8. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Throttle Cable Linkage / Bracket
    This was the trickiest part to figure out. You need to put on your thinking cap and do a little fabrication work. The old cable was orientated up and down. It pulled down for acceleration. I determined I wanted to change things so the cable would be horizontal. I searched high and low on the interwebs to see if there was a universal bracket or even a GM bracket I could use. No luck. I decided to use the stock bracket attached to the intake manifold below the vacuum tree and put a bend in it so it could now be used at the top rear driver's side manifold bolt hole currently used for a heater hose support. Using my shop brake, I bent it just right. It was perfectly aligned. However, it was too flimsy and had quite a bit of flex. To combat this, I installed a piece of small angle from the TBI to the newly bent bracket. Fortunately, my TBI had metric bolt threads on the side. I noticed not all TBI's have these bolt holes. To attach the angle to the bracket, I drilled and tapped the angle at the location of the 1/4-20 cable secure bolt. You do need to cut off a section of the angle (cut one leg off) for it to clear the rotating throttle plate.
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    I used the lower hole to attach the cable. If you use the top hole, the cable needs more travel length which I did not have. I used an aluminum bushing sleeve which matched the hole size and had an ID perfect for the Holley 1940 screw / linkage ball connector. Cut the aluminum sleeve to be the same length as the thickness of the throttle plate the cable attaches to.
    20171202_100653.jpg

    I'm really happy with how this came out!
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2018
  9. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Vehicle Speed Sensor
    Although not required, the VSS is nice as it provides handy information when reviewing your data logs so you know how fast you were going. This is best accessed by removing the transmission tunnel (if you have no 4WD that is!!!!). I added some weatherpak connectors on the harness side and VSS side.
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  10. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    MAP Sensor
    I installed the MAP sensor on the firewall. Make sure the vacuum port is facing down and it is slightly higher than the port on the TBI. You want any condensation in the line to go away from the sensor. This was installed with some bent metal which I painted. I used 10-24 machine screws to secure the MAP sensor to the bracket.
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  11. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Ignition Control Module
    This piece comes connected to a piece of aluminum. That acts as a necessary heat sink, so make sure you leave it together. The bolt hole in the manifold next to the vacuum tree where the throttle cable bracket was previously works great. Make sure you get a GOOD ground with the aluminum!

    20180519_123408.jpg

    A GM wiring diagram for reference (Sole purpose is to show what gets connected to this component. Follow instruction manual for all wiring details and connections).......
    Wiring at Coil and Distributor (old school coil).jpg
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2018
  12. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Wiring, Wiring and More Wiring
    So you certainly have a lot of new wires! But it's also a great opportunity to undo your existing harness and strip out / remove all the unnecessary wiring. You can remove the bulkhead connector at the brake booster and go to town. Use a small screwdriver to undo the Packard 56 style male terminals. I was surprised how much I was able to pull out! For the new wiring on the Hamilton FI system, I picked up 12V battery positive and key on start at the Ford style starter solenoid. This was very convenient as the firewall hole is right next to it. I shortened the wires from the kit and put on new ring terminals. The ground can secure to the cylinder head. Scrape / clean away all that paint to ensure good contact!!! You will probably need a mirror to make sure you are 100% clean. You will pick up key on run and key on start at the coil (one wire). It's the wire on the positive side of the coil. I used a non insulated butt connected and then heat shrinked. Many of the other wires in the kit already have connector ends so where they go is rather easy to figure out. Play around with the routing of the wiring / loom so it looks nice, clean and is properly secured. I mounted the relays in the single stock front speaker location using a piece of strap metal using the top posts. You can also see my support for the big FI loom secured to the bottom post.
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    The fuses were a head scratcher. Final location was to the underside of the cardboard glove box. A few machines screws hold it in nice. I also mounted the ALDL diagnostic port and the service engine soon (SES) light in the same area.
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    I added some Brother P-Touch labels for easy identification!
    20180721_092643.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2018
  13. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Air Cleaner Take 1
    Your stock Holley 1940 is 4 inches tall with a tiny 1 bbl opening. The GM TBI is 2 inches tall (plus the adapter plate which is 1/2 inch tall) and a large 5 1/8 inch opening. 5 1/8 inch is the standard opening for a 4 bbl carb. Due to this 1 1/2 inch height difference, you need a spacer. In an effort to keep things somewhat stock looking, I bought an IH 4 bbl air cleaner assembly. This combined with a 3/4 inch spacer should be just the ticket! I also wanted to retain the hot air riser of the exhaust manifold. I did have to flip around the spark arrester port in the air cleaner as it was pointed to what would be the driver's side valve cover. I needed it pointing to the passenger side (and only) valve cover. I drilled out the weld, spun it and welded it back.
    20171014_155230.jpg

    Drilled out the weld
    20171028_105013.jpg

    Flipped around so it will face the passenger side. 20171028_105832.jpg

    Well, the air cleaner combined with the 3/4 inch ABS spacer made by Mota Performance and the offset 1/4 inch threaded rod in the TBI to hold things down was a mess. It was very unstable. Even when it was tight and snug, it appeared any nudge would topple this contraption. I quickly threw in the towel.
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2018
  14. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Air Cleaner Take 2
    New plan. Find a high rise 5 1/8 inch opening air cleaner assembly. Trans Dapt model 8641 fit the bill. Edelbrock makes one very similar but I did not want "EDELBROCK" embossed on the top of the air cleaner. The Trans Dapt takes a 10 inch filter element. It has a rise of 3/4 of an inch which is exactly what you need to clear the water neck.
    trans-dapt8641.jpg


    trans-dapt8641 apart.jpg
    You'll notice the bottom does have a 5/8 inch port which would have been great for the spark arrester air intake connection. Unfortunately, the spark arrester is 1/2 inch hose. Plus the position of it would not be ideal even though you can spin the base around. I came up with another solution that added a new 1/2 inch barb to 1/2 inch male NPT nylon elbow with a nut on the inside (scored this at Lowe's). 1/2" fuel line between the two. I had to make a new 13/16 inch hole in the base of the air cleaner for the elbow.
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    The only item on my to do list for the air cleaner is to swap out the gasket to rubber metal edging. The rubber will go on the air cleaner. Here's a basic example.
    s-l300.jpg
    To plug that 5/8 inch port on the bottom of the air cleaner, I bought Dorman 02253 Bypass Cap Assortment. There was a good selection in this.
    71kYuKNG2aL._SL1500_.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2018
  15. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Distributor Swap
    A terrific feature of the kit is you now have computer controlled spark advance. No more vacuum advance or mechanical advance. It works just like the GM system. You need to send Bill a core to get the core refund for the distributor he sends you. Follow the instructions closely for this step.

    Doesn't hurt to snap a picture of the wires and cylinders they go to!
    20171205_185417.jpg
    I removed the cap and took a bunch of pictures of the rotor's position and the distributor's position.
    Distributor -  Original position.jpg
    When you slide in the new one, you're meshing the gears with the camshaft so it'll rotate as it goes down. This may take a few tries. If you're a tooth off, that's no good (like this try).
    Distributor - Attempt #1 - WRONG.jpg
    You also will likely need to use a long jumbo screwdriver to play with the position of the oil pump as the distributor drives the oil pump. In order to have the distributor drop in, you need to be somewhat aligned. Looks much better here!
    Distributor - Attempt #2 - MUCH BETTER.jpg
    Now it's time to align the crank and distributor. Rotate the engine so you have the crank timing aligned at 0 degrees.
    20171206_192745.jpg
    Now look under you distributor cap. You want the reluctor (star wheel) to align with the pickup coil. You're ensuring the TDC of the engine (crank and cam) are aligned with distributor. You will do a fine tune adjustment later per the manual but this gets you going. You'll notice my star wheel only has four points. One for each cylinder!
    20171206_192659.jpg
     
  16. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Fuel Pump Blank
    Bill provides a blank, bolts and gasket for the fuel pump. Don't be tempted to use RTV on this. Clean the surface real good and install everything. I used some longer bolts I had in the garage in lieu of what was provided.
     
  17. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    ECM (Computer)
    You need to find a home for the computer, referred to the ECM. I played around with locations quite a bit. I settled on the glove box. It sits nice in there and I wasn't keeping much in there anyway. You will need to cut a slot in the back. I recommend removing the cardboard insert entirely to make the cut. As my wiring was coming in through the firewall very close by, the glove box made sense. Also, if you need to swap chips, it's handy to have it handy!
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    Looking good! And yes, that's a USB charging port from Powerwerx you see there. Great addition. You can also see the top of the machine screws that hold in the fuse block.
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    I think I may purchase the aftermarket plastic insert and redo all the cutouts, holes, etc I have now.
    scout_ii_3_1024x1024.JPG
    With the ECM in the glove box compartment, you can easily swap the chip. The hex head machine screws take a 1/4" socket or wrench.
    20180721_090455.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2018
  18. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    More to come..................stay tuned! :cowboy:
     
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  19. zilla

    zilla Farmall Cub

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    Nice job.
     
  20. skezeks2478

    skezeks2478 Farmall Cub

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    Looks really good!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     

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