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Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by mlc8761, Mar 30, 2014.
Wow, that is gorgeous! Nice work.
What kind of lights did you use for the rear interior lights, and how did you wire them in? They look very sharp!
I used 1/2" x 3/4" aluminum angle as a light diffuser and DRL LED driving lights. I rounded the aluminum corners with a belt sander and wired them into the new Standard Products DS-305 door jamb switches. The angle sticks out 1/2" and doesn't seem to catch shoes or feet while getting into the back seat and gives plenty of light and is not really noticeable.
Less than 200 miles on the scout and the brakes have gotten so hot that they locked up. Three bad brake boosters later I think it is fixed, just have to adjust the brake shoes and hopefully this chapter is over. I took the distribution block apart thinking that I put the pistons in incorrectly but it was correct. Had the brand new master cylinder checked and it is good. While I was figuring out the brake problems I adjusted the worm gear in the steering sector and it made a huge difference in braking and steering. The entire brake system is new and you wouldn't think I would have these problems. Bad brake boosters do some weird things, Maybe one day soon I can get the Scout aligned and new exhaust system put in and a new steering sector. I don't know if turn downs or turn outs would be the best since I have never had turn downs before.
Traced wiring issues back to the headlight switch. Replaced it in about 15 minutes and was easier than I thought it would be. After I had the alignment I ordered a steering brace from Anything Scout and it had a 1/4" space between it and the frame that a drill bit would fit in. Made a spacer out of flat bar and the spacer fixed it so the brace is done. I found some of my steering wondering issues to be a 2 degree aluminum pinion shim was installed backwards and that gave me a 2 degrees negative pinion angle.ordered 4 degree pinion wedges/shims, steering box frame reinforcement, A new steering pump and hoses. Packed up the steering box and sent it to Lares to be rebuilt. Hopefully this will take some of the excitement out of driving the Scout. The exhaust system was fixed and I am starting to really enjoy driving the Scout now. I replaced the hubs, right side wheel and put new drums on from damage that the power brake boosters caused from excessive heat. The studs turned in the hubs and caused the wheel damage. I put a new battery box in and have to paint the engine compartment next.
installed the 4 degree wedge shims with the big end facing the front. Axle and shocks are bolted back in. Hopefully my steering box will be back in the next couple of days.
The parts are all installed now. Bleeding the air out of the rebuilt steering box and the new power steer pump and lines was more than I expected. I had to uninstall a new power steering pump that was bad from the factory and put the new one in. I bought new steel wedges and they snapped on install so I bought aluminum ones and they worked great. I test drove the Scout and it drives straight and most all of the wandering and unexpected lane changing is gone. The biggest thing is that it stops straight and does not pull hard to the right any more. I pulled the steering wheel off and set it straight. Next is to paint the fire walls and maybe put the locker in the rear end.
Checked the pinion angle and its 4 Degrees positive.
What are the specs on those rims?
Mickey Thompson 2350402
Classic III Wheel Size: 15" x 10" Bolt Circle: 5 x 5-1/2" Rear Spacing: 3-5/8" Finish: Polished
How about suspension lift and/or body lift? Sorry for playing 21 questions, but I'm still trying to figure out how I'm going to go about my project. haha
The Scout has 2.5" lift springs with new body bushings and stock shackles. Once the new body bushings were installed I was surprised at how much it added, they must have been completely worn out. I added the 31" tires and it sits 37.5 inches from the floor to the bottom of the wheel well. Let me know if there is anything else you would like to know.- Matt
I finally painted the firewalls and battery box with satin epoxy paint. Put the windshield and radiator reservoir in. No more radiator overflow on the garage floor. The Scout is driving great. I got out on interstate last weekend and it drove straight and was very comfortable but the top was flapping and making a lot of noise so bad that I thought it was going to rip off. The Scout hunted 70 mph and it seemed to like that speed that is if I can trust the gauge. Put the new Scoutco radiator and jack decals on.
I have been putting a lot of miles on the Scout and it has been reliable. I had some trouble out of several new relays that were bad but finally got a good one and no more cranking issues. The shifter cable slipped out of the shifter bracket because I did not tighten it up sufficiently but that has been about it. Have all the lights working and blinking. Replaced all the light bulb socket terminals, they cost about 3.00 ea. The Scout has been running cool but as a precaution I put a Mr. Gasket 2475S radiator cap with a temperature gauge made on the top of it . Bought a 1972 NOS Alabama tag from a Courthouse in North Alabama seems they never issued it. The State registered it and put a decal on it and allowed me to use it. I put the Scout in a car show at Dauphin Island for the first time and that was a lot of fun. I was asked " Who makes International Scout" seems that not many were sold in South Alabama. Started using 93 octane and it really made a difference idling and driving. Used a vacuum Gauge to time the engine and that made a huge difference as well. The 345 is the best idling engine and is so smooth. Had what sounded like knocking from the engine but it turned out it was the alternator making a noise like I have never heard so it was replaced. Had the muffler system fixed and the Magnaflows sound really great and quiet. That's pretty much up to now. Next will be putting the Scoutco 345 air cleaner sticker on and the sticker that goes on the hood backside that shows idle speed and timing.