Lean BLM Enrichment Options

Discussion in 'Injection Tech' started by JoeHall, Nov 11, 2019.


  1. JoeHall

    JoeHall Farmall Cub

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    With the successful re-phasing, and timing now correct on the 1st Studebaker, I returned to the 2nd Studebaker and repeated the exact procedures. So now both cars have perfect timing, throughout the curve, which matches original Stude specs.

    So I can now compare both cars' driving impressions, and ALDL data. I have conquered WinALDL hookup, and it only takes a minute to connect and be ready to start the car. I am still learning, but can now understand most on-screen info: Flag & Sensor Data, Error Codes, BLM, and INT (still learning about o2). It is interesting to compare the two cars' data, and their BLM contrast has been enlightening.

    The 2nd car runs like it should, and (wide avg) BLMs are all in the 120s, mostly mid-120s. Its FP is 13 PSI cold (permanently mounted FP gauge under the hood), and TPS is .55v. I love the way it now runs (with phasing/timing corrected), and do not plan to change anything.

    The 1st car, till yesterday had rough idle, low power, and frequently bogged under light to moderate throttle, especially at 120-170 degrees; it's BLMs were 140s-150s, FP was 12.5 PSI cold, and TPS .55v. Yesterday, at cold idle, I pinched the return line till the FP gauge went to around 20. I then carefully pinched it to hold 15 PSI, and noticed the idle picked up about 50 RPM, and smoothed out. So I then adjusted the FPR spring to max, and got 14.75 on the gauge. I then took it out for 45 miles of data collecting. The BLMs are now all in the 130s, mostly mid-130s. Performance is much improved: smoother idle, more power, and almost no bogging. However, overall, it still does not perform as well as the other car, and I believe it is due to the BLM difference. Why the difference, I am not sure.

    So back to the topic: Both cars have 4.3 injectors, and same size motor (Studebaker V8, 289). Only a few differences: 1st car has a 700R, and 2nd car had 3speed/OD; the 1st car has power brakes (driving with disconnected is not an option, other than testing), and the 2nd does not. So today, I plan to readjust the idle (IAC count is 0), then readjust the TPS. I will then drive and gather data, with and without the PB connected.

    If BLM is still high (running lean) I am considering enrichment options in the following order: stronger FPR spring to bump the FP a few more PSI (but hear that puts strain on the fuel pump); install 5.0 injectors and dial down the FP to hopefully bring BLMs to 120s, or have another chip made to widen the 4.3 injector pulse rate.

    Does this sound like a good plan? I welcome advice and suggestions from anyone and everyone.
    Thanks Much
     
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  2. JoeHall

    JoeHall Farmall Cub

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    I attached the BLM and DATA logs from yesterday, and the day before. I mistakenly saved the first half yesterday, then re-started it, so that's why there are two. I drove the same 45 mile loop, but picked up the pace a bit on the interstate yesterday, from 70-75 to 80-85 average. In the garage, before the drive, I experimented with the PCV disconnected and plugged, and same with the PB. No difference that I could tell, if anything, it got a bit leaner. Will try driving with the PB manifold vacuum port disconnected and plugged next time.

    I could not get the IAC count down because the butterflies stick in the TBI throat if backed off far enough to drop the IAC. I used the piece of paper to check for clearance, and believe the butterflies are sticking more on the sides than the 6 and 12 o'clock positions. Even though the minimum idle screw will back the butterflies down another 1 1/2 turns or so, cannot do it due to the butterflies's sticking. Not sure how much the IAC matters, in relation to getting the BLMs down.

    I still have no clue as to the o2 reading, whether good or bad.
     

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  3. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Joe,
    I realize you have time to play but you should not be doing all the things your playing with.
    Simply log data and send it to me and i will adjust the tune.
    Try to log for about 45min-1hr and try to fill up as much of the wide avg table as possible.
    IAC counts go down as you open the butterflies.
    So backing the screw out just makes it worse.
    The idea is to have the IAC counts above 0 at a warm idle after a drive.
    As long as it's not 0 the the ECM is controlling the idle speed.
    Normally 10-20 is good.
    The tune is off because the improper phasing was causing a misfire and improper timing which affected the fuel.
    More timing leans the fueling, less makes it richer.
     
  4. JoeHall

    JoeHall Farmall Cub

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    Hello Bill,
    Good to hear from you. Yes, retirement is good, and perhaps too much time on my hands now, but definitely done with working.

    I misspoke about the IAC, was backing the idle screw out to close the butterflies more, in order to INCREASE the IAC count. I read that you recommend 20-30, and that's what I was trying for. However, when I back the idle screw out enough for the IAC count to come up, the butterflies stick. I played it it quite awhile, and though the butterflies will close further with the idle screw, I could not get them to stop sticking. I got it close enough that the IAC will often flutter 4-7 at warm idle and, when put into gear with foot on the brake, they come up to 20-29, but never break 30.

    As for the main topic of BLM decrease/fuel enrichment, will definitely take you up on your offer of another chip. I realize I am waaaay out of warranty, so just let me know the bill and I will gladly pay. Will gather the BLM and LOG data as soon as the roads clear up here, in a couple of days. Meanwhile, today I will attach BLM and LOG data from two days ago, before I bumped the cold FP from 12.5 to 14.5. I mistakenly said 14.75 above, but it is 14.5. If possible, would like to get the BLMs down while at a lower FP, maybe around 12-13. That way, there's still some adjustability left in the FPR if ever needed. As you will see in the attached data, BLMs were 140s-150s before the FP bump.
    Thanks Much
     

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  5. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    For the IAC, all you want is for it not to go to 0 on a warm idle.
    The number is not important.
    Too low and the blades are open, to high and they are closed.
    Also, if you can't get it to 0 with the idle screw all the way out then that is normally an indication of a vacuum leak.
    Plug all vacuum hoses including the brake booster and see if it changes.
    The only vacuum hoses you should have is the brakes and PCV.
    All others should be plugged.
    If the engine still idles with the IAC driven closed and disconnected and the idle screw out, then you have an internal leak.
     
  6. JoeHall

    JoeHall Farmall Cub

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    Pretty sure I can get there with the IAC, to maybe 5-10 count. After reading your info on vacuum lines, yesterday I disconnected and plugged off the ported line to the charcoal canister. It is a limitless vacuum leak but, being ported, I did not think it would affect the IAC. I was more concerned it may affect the BLM, but no change, per the BLM data. It will stay unplugged though, and the (1980s vintage) charcoal can will still work OK without it.

    Where do you want me to email the ALDL data? I still have your Scouti76 address, and also your sales address. Is either of those OK, or do you have another one by now?
    Thanks Again
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2019
  7. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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  8. JoeHall

    JoeHall Farmall Cub

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    Bill,
    Tomorrow looks like a good day to gather plenty of data, dry and high of 45 degrees. Beforehand I plan to: scour carbon from the TBI throat and hopefully stop the butterflies from sticking, then back the idle screw off to get the IAC count up. Next, readjust the TPS. Then reset FP to 13 PSI, where I plan to leave it. Finally, disconnect the battery a few minutes to clear the data and start anew.
    Is there any other preliminary I should do?
    Thanks
     
  9. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Make sure TPS is the last setting you make.
     
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  10. JoeHall

    JoeHall Farmall Cub

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    I did the preliminaries this morning, then went for a ride. The car ran like crap. Upon return home, I discovered a leak on the TBI top gasket, where I'd removed the FPR to adjust it. I also discovered ALDL shuts down after 60 minutes, so all data was lost, albeit useless anyway.

    So I bought a TBI gasket kit, and replaced all gaskets in the TBI. While at it, I polished the TBI throat where the butterflies were sticking. After reassembly, BLMs went back to the 130s, so I focused next on getting the IAC up. Disconnected and plugged all vacuum ports except the MAP. Sprayed de-icer on sealing surfaces to check for vacuum leaks. Removed the IAC and cleaned it (though not dirty). Still, the only way to maintain IAC above zero is to set the idle screw to 850-900. Any less and the IAC slowly dwindles to zero within 10-15 seconds at idle. When set to 850-900 idle, the IAC count stays at 3-7.

    Though the de-icer indicates no vacuum leak, tomorrow I plan to replace the intake manifold-to-head gaskets. That is because I can not get a good stream of de-icer on the intake runner for cylinders 6 & 8. So possibly there's a vacuum leak there, but I seriously doubt it. Will see what tomorrow brings.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2019
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  11. JoeHall

    JoeHall Farmall Cub

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    Today, I replaced the intake manifold gaskets, and used my favorite Permatex (High Tack) on the metal gaskets. Also used de-icer to check afterward. Pretty certain there are NO vacuum leaks. I also did a minimum idle adjustment, per pages 23-24 of Bill's ISP. Took my time, and played with it till satisfied with the results. Still, the IAC count is zero at idle in Neutral, and 10-25 in Drive. I recall asking Bill to dial the (cold) idle down in a replacement chip, which he did. I am now wondering if the zero IAC is due to that adjustment. Regardless, I like the idle as it is. Not sure if the zero IAC is an issue.
    So now I am confident there's nothing else I can do to insure all the installation related issues have been addressed. Planning to get the ALDL data tomorrow, from cold startup on.
     
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  12. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Your getting wrapped around the IAC counts and shouldn't.
    Go for a drive and come back and let it idle.
    IAC counts should be just above 0.
    The tune will affect the IAC counts as the ECM adjust the fuel mixture.
    So you can't just go chasing a number when your tune is still off.
    You should never touch the pintle of the IAC.
    They either work or don't.
    If you push, pull or twist the pintle it will be bad.

    When you go for a drive, make sure you do not have any power saver on the laptop.
    No sleep for the screen or hard drive.
    I also hit the BLM save table about every 15min during the drive just to make sure i don't lose it all if the laptop locks up.
     
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  13. JoeHall

    JoeHall Farmall Cub

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    Hi Bill,
    I did not do anything with the IAC valve except gently clean it, and the seat inside the TBI (neither was really dirty). Will shut off the lap top screen sleeper. Yep, I had read ALDL shuts down sometimes, and mine did so at 60 minutes. Everything disappeared. With the TBI leak, the data was no good anyway. The leak was the fuel return passage gasket, fuel was running into the throat, making it run rich. The new gasket kit fixed that, and also raised FP by 1/2 PSI. So I readjusted it back to 13. Will forget about IAC, focus on getting data, and sending it your way.

    Also checked timing again today. Must admit I've checked it several times recently, mostly just to marvel. LOL
    Thanks Again
     
  14. JoeHall

    JoeHall Farmall Cub

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    Today was a good weather day, 40s temps and lots of sun. So I took the car out for 65 miles and about 1.5 hours of data BLM and LOG data collecting. The car did the usual stumbling, and even coughed a couple of times during the first 15 minutes, till coolant temp hit 170 F. Afterward it just had low power. With a 195 thermostat it stabilizes around 180, which is normal. I have came to note that it is most likely to stumble, bog and cough when coolant temp is 120-170.

    I stopped three times to save the data, and each time exited and closed ALDL. Before driving away, I restarted ALDL and datalogger. Still, for some reason it dod not capture BLM data for the first increment. Of all increments, that's the worst one to lose, as it was when temps were 120-170, and the car ran its worst. Also, when I began the 4th increment, the BLM did not start till about 15 minutes later. So there are glitches in ALDL data collecting, at least with my laptop. But I have heard of others having problems too. Hopefully I captured enough data for Bill to make sense of it.
     
  15. JoeHall

    JoeHall Farmall Cub

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    Thanks to Bill for a great HFI experience. I received his reprogrammed chip yesterday, installed it, then took the car for a 25 mile drive, and another 40 miles today. It now runs better than it ever has; spins easily, starts quickly and idles smoothly, and the throttle is responsive at all RPM, cold or warm. The BLMs are mostly high 120s to low 130s, and the INT is 127-129.
    Since the phasing fix, the car has been driven 1250 miles. Before, performance was erratic, run OK for awhile, then mysteriously run like crap for awhile. This time it has remained consistent, and changed only when improvements were made. It is amazing how well HFI works when the installation instructions are (finally) followed properly. LOL
    Thanks Bill
     

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