K-6-250

Discussion in 'Triple Diamond Trucks' started by desert_K6, Aug 21, 2018.


  1. desert_K6

    desert_K6 Farmall Cub

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    So for no intelligent reason I went and bought a 46' K-6-250. I've always wanted to restore a vehicle and a two ton truck is as least useful. Slightly daunting in size, but useful.

    I am not a mechanic, but I am mechanically inclined. I understand the basic components and what they should do.
    So far I have changed the plugs, ground strap, coil wire to distributor, coil wire to battery, moved the starter wires around (they are 1/0), replaced the plug wires, drained the coolant and oil, rebuilt the carb, and got bit by several hundred ants (I live in Az)

    I have isolated the electrical system so I don't start a fire or burn out the gauges. I did get it to run for a couple of seconds before I stopped it.
    Any help on what kind of oil goes in the transmission or rear diff? And whether or not the exhaust is supposed to go through the passenger fender? I assume not by the ugly peanut butter welds.
     

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  2. scout2000

    scout2000 Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Congratulations on your new truck and welcome to Binder Planet.

    From your pictures, looks like a pretty neat truck. What do things look like under the hood?



    Same type of things, I believe, that most of us would have gone thru. Swap out all the fluids, filters, check out brake pads and other items designed to wear out.

    Just curious, did you have any problem finding a rebuild kit for the carb?


    yea, I know about those. I have a bunch of their relatives living down here near me in Texas. :(


    Thats pretty neat, that you know that the engine in not only not frozen/rusted up, but that it turns over and starts. Prior to your maintenance, do you know how long it had been since it had last ran? Any history from the Previous owner?

    Wish I had an answer for you on the lubricant, but someone here will.


    Apparently, drug abuse goes back further than we ever imagined. Saw your comment regarding mechanics, but you didn't comment on your welding and body work skills. In the long run, nothing that can't be fixed with time, money, blood, sweat, tears, elbow grease, etc.

    Again, congrats on the new truck and welcome to Binder Planet. I'm looking forward to watching your restoration/build process. Please post updated pictures as you progress.
     
  3. desert_K6

    desert_K6 Farmall Cub

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    Hello Scout, I had a hard time figuring out what carb it had on it. The tag didn't have useful information to me on it. I actually went of the sketching on carbkitsource.com turns out it was a zenith 28/288

    As for the time it last ran the plate that is on it is '75. As far as the owner goes it sounded like the Oregon road commission? It had a dump box on it before the previous owner had it (he just bought it as a project a few years ago).

    As for the metal working, I am a trained woodworker, but as a machinist I learned silver soldering. I can do the bondo type smoothing fairly decent, and I've done some work on both hand and CNC press brakes. But not hand hammer reforming.

    As for under the hood, everything seems to be intact or at least farm boy repaired. The cloth wiring is all shot as to be expected, the fuel line seems to be soft copper, the generator and water pump still turn over, the throttle and choke lines are seized, the old plug wires were new-ish, the block have miss matching paint so I assume it was revamped or cobbled together. It is the BLD 250 though.

    The interior is "immaculate" the access panel is a little thin, but the high beam switch still works, the clutch and accelerator petal move but the break is rock hard, I got the cowl vent to open today and the windscreen opens half an inch, the seat has like a cigarette hole in it, but the back rest burst a seam, green Naugahyde.
     

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  4. scout2000

    scout2000 Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    I asked about the carb, based on a past event.

    I had attended a Binder event 2 or 3 years ago, and a club member was offering me a ride in his offroad only Binder. As you might imagine, this vehicle sits a lot, and his carb had gotten to the point it needed a fresh rebuild kit.

    To our surprise (I was listening in), he called all the auto parts places in town. Most told him no, and the best answer he got was one parts place told him they could have a rebuild kit for him in two weeks. Sadly, he ended up having to load his vehicle back up on the trailer. IMHO, I though the carb he was running wasn't all that rare, or even uncommon.

    Its been a while since I've had a vehicle where fuel was applied via carburetor, but after the above mentioned event, I've become just a bit carb-gun-shy, and I wonder if some time soon, if hunting down carb parts will be as difficult as finding drum brake parts for 1940's and 1950's vintage Binders.
     
  5. rotak

    rotak Farmall Cub

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    Golly, that seat is lovely. And she runs a bit! Wow! You didn't even have to peel apart the engine like a moldy orange. Lucky duck. Rustoleum will become your new best friend at some point--just don't do it in the hothot sun unless you want all your clever neighbours using the words "brush" and "strokes" in the same sentence. Or do, and eff the po-lice. :) Does yours have a hydrovac for brake assist? If so, how's the state of it? I can still source most brake parts for my 53 via the Internets (on a long boat ride from the People's Republic) so I can't imagine you'd be too marooned in that department anyway, being that yours isn't that much older. It's a fine truck and I'm sure you'll have fun with it.
     
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  6. desert_K6

    desert_K6 Farmall Cub

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    It does have a giant Bendix Aviation doohickey underneath but the brake pedal is seized at the moment, well the master cylinder is seized. Ill probably wait until winter to start any painting, at least then I will be out of monsoon season.
     
  7. desert_K6

    desert_K6 Farmall Cub

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    So for what its worth Ill do what I can about a K-6 info page, The Master Cylinder on my truck is a Wagner Lockheed 2704 as of 2018 the "replacement" is the Raybestos MC2657 and the four bolt "mountain" brake with a larger bore is the Raybestos MC1251. Take heed this is only the info I have found on the interwebs.

    The front wheel cylinders seem to be rebuildable with the Raybestos WK120, I am still trying to find info on the rear cylinders I don't have an original manufacturer yet, as I have not removed them.

    also I have removed the fuel tank, it is pitted on top, I presume from condensation. I have not found a 1-1 replacement yet, only a thinner 12 gal tank that may work.

    I removed the fuel pump, it was incased in road grit and fuel, I removed the glass and put the assembly in a coffee can of gas and over night it opened like a clam :phone:

    more to follow as I muddle through, bitten by ants, smelling of rotten gear oil.
     
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  8. desert_K6

    desert_K6 Farmall Cub

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    wheel bearings for the budd type front hub and hydraulic brakes
    Timken #'s
    Front Inner 3578
    Rear outer 39520 or 3982
    Rear Inner 33281
    I could not cross reference the front outer, or I could and it was a Romanian or South African website :cornfused:

    also I found long case alternators that probably only need a bushing to make fit
    Powermaster 82051
     
  9. desert_K6

    desert_K6 Farmall Cub

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    So I had the radiator cleaned, pressure tested, and painted. I rebuilt it this weekend and with a rope water pump belt I ran it for a few minutes. I flushed the radiator (water jacket) and need to finesse some other bits. The thermostat housing took some jiggery pokery to take apart as I had broken off two bolts and the third was missing. I bought a fuel tank assembly and I will be mounting it under the bed. The original was full of holes on top.

    Any ideas where the oil pressure sensor would be located?

    Oh and as far as part go the thermostat: Stant 13478 (180°)
     
  10. rotak

    rotak Farmall Cub

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    Sounds like you'll be rolling in no time! Any pics of your progress so far?
     
  11. desert_K6

    desert_K6 Farmall Cub

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    Pics of the engine bay and grill re-assembled. Tried to drive it last weekend and shorted the starter :helpsmilie:

    Ran some wires for the lights too
     

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  12. desert_K6

    desert_K6 Farmall Cub

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    So the holidays greatly slowed my progress... I have had the starter and generator rebuilt to 12v but I presume I need to change the coil, condenser and points. would anyone have the new part numbers. I have all the books so i can get the old numbers, but no company has a compatibility chart for that type stuff. Maybe they're universal I'm not sure either.

    I have a lot of questions, for I have no old fart handy to help.
     
  13. Greg R

    Greg R Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    12V??? Well, all the lighting, dash, headlight, brake light, etc will need switched or the 6V ones will burn out shortly. Save the 6V bulbs, guys like me may buy them. You will need to protect the gauges as they still need 6V. Put in a Runtz voltage reducer for each gauge. You can find them at Speedway but if you want the technical how-tos go to Fifth Avenue Antique Auto Parts Internet Garage. The guy there knows these old systems. If fact he developed a 6V alternator for these old rigs so the battery can charge at lower engine rpms than the generators were capable of. 6V systems were good systems. At this late date they get a bad rap from undersized batteries, (not under charged but under sized), dry starting motors and gear, and cabling that was replaced with an undersized gauge plus just overall poor/oxidized connections. Points are distributor specific , they don't depend on voltage. The coil is and you need one with at least 3 ohms resistance in the primary wiring for the 6 cylinder. The primary resistance ohms is what limits the ignition system amperage and helps protect the points.
     
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  14. desert_K6

    desert_K6 Farmall Cub

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    Thank you for the quick response, as I may have said before I have a general understanding of how all the things work, but not how universal or specific they are. Some parts fit all the major U.S. manufactures some parts aren't.

    With the magic of Google Chrome I have just found an active number for the 12 coil (1115043), Point Set Delco F10714, 12 Volt Delco Condenser 1900272 (D201)
    I had looked before and had not found anything, of course I have a better understanding of the actual parts now too.
     

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