Jim's Engine Build 2.0 2019

Discussion in 'Diesel Tech' started by Jim, Dec 5, 2019.


  1. Jim

    Jim High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2001
    Messages:
    1,219
    Likes Received:
    48
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Oregon
    Unfortunately my build from 2 years ago needs to be redone:

    http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/jims-sd33t-engine-build-thread-2017.135014/

    I ran into 2 major problems on the original build:

    1. Excessive Blow-by, presumably piston/cylinder issue.
    2. Very excessive leak at rear main seal. Losing as much as a quart in 50 miles.

    Today I purchased another engine rebuild kit from Noordeman Diesel (Austrailia). This time I got new cylinder liners. I figure using new cylinder liners will improve the piston/cylinder sealing and should eliminate the blow by this time. I did not set ring gap last time, so this time I will do this more carefully. Several questions:

    1. What is the best way to treat/hone new cylinder liners? Do I hone with cross hatch or just leave them new and not do anything. Maybe it will be best to have the machinist do this. I know this question has been asked before. Still curious what you all think.

    2. What could have gone wrong with rear main seal? I was very careful and checked crank dimensions before installation. I am really concerned I will spend another $1500 and end up with the same leak issue. If I can get this sealed up to a normal drip, I will be very happy!

    The engine does run decently warm, except is has a heck of a time warming up. More than normal. This could be the blow by issue, but could also be a head/valve problem. I will have to take the head in again and make sure the machinist got those valves to seal proper. The cold compression test showed all cylinders with decent compression. Leaning toward valve job issue as far as warming up problem?

    More to come...
     
  2. Joe S

    Joe S Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2011
    Messages:
    215
    Likes Received:
    15
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Sunland, Lompoc, CA
    What's Noordeman say about honing? What's the finish look like now?

    I thought they came ready to run or undersized to be machined in place but I thought that required more than just honing.

    On the seal I'd try to determine where it was leaking before disassembly. At ends due to too much gap, etc.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2019
  3. Jim

    Jim High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2001
    Messages:
    1,219
    Likes Received:
    48
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Oregon
    I dont have the liners yet, they are on route. I have emailed Noordeman to see what they think. No response yet. I am hoping all I have to do is hone, and check/adjust ring gap. I will post later if I find out.

    How can I figure out where the seal is leaking without disassembly? Im not sure what you mean here. I guess I can pull the flywheel to see something , but Im not sure what I can learn from that. The pan is sealed up tight, so no oil is leaking out of the pan.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2019
  4. Joe S

    Joe S Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2011
    Messages:
    215
    Likes Received:
    15
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Sunland, Lompoc, CA
    Just that you ought to look around real careful like to see if you can determine where it's coming out. Maybe it's leaking so bad that everything is too wet to see anything.
     
  5. Joe S

    Joe S Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2011
    Messages:
    215
    Likes Received:
    15
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Sunland, Lompoc, CA
    So I looked in the book. I'd forgotten that the end of the crank has a flange that's bigger than the seal diameter. I thought you could see the seal/crank interface. Still might be able to see something worthwhile if you remove the flywheel and housing and look behind the flange.

    When you installed the seal were the ends sticking up out of the cap and down out of the block like the book shows?
     
  6. MyDieselScout2

    MyDieselScout2 Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2011
    Messages:
    381
    Likes Received:
    34
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    Pomona, CA
    Hi Jim,

    You might want to check the dowel pin that lines up the flywheel, just make sure it doesn’t make contact with the rear main seal when you mount the flywheel. It’s literally in line with the rear main seal and it could ruin the seal if it touches it. Happened to me on my rebuild. The pin managed to turn the rear main seal out center, ruining it. I may have mentioned this before.

    Also make sure you use one Indian head form a gasket to lock down the hearing caps. At the rear main seal use liquid nails household projects brand to fuse the two half moon seals. And take your time to think things through before assembly.

    Also freeze the bearing cap before install to contract the steel as much as possible.

    These are just recommendations that I learned here and worked for me.






    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  7. blue smoke

    blue smoke High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2008
    Messages:
    1,282
    Likes Received:
    64
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Melissa Texas
    Jim,
    I know that there are differences between manufacturers of Diesel engines.

    For what it’s worth Cat engines liners are honed and ready to install. However and this is the important part. They have very tight tolerance for the putrusion above the cylinder deck. They have shims the fit between the grove the liner.
    ThIs just FWIW

    Mike
     
  8. Jim

    Jim High Wheeler

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2001
    Messages:
    1,219
    Likes Received:
    48
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Oregon
    Hi All. Thanks for the excellent tips for the rear main seal installation and liners. I will be rereading those posts before I start taking it a part and before installing the new seal. I followed the steps listed in engine manual carefully. I like the suggestions above on checking dowel line up pin. With how fast the oil was leaking I got to think something like what happened to Mike. I will post back once I get things apart.

    About the liners. I received the kit from Noordeman. Still have not heard back from Noordeman about how to prep the liners after the machinist presses them in. My machinist probably knows what to do once he sees them. Anyway, the part number search says the sleeves are made in India. NDCS08301S-EA Semi-Finished (www.aecoproducts.com) .
    https://aecoproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Cylinder_Sleeve.pdf
    I emailed the company and asked what they recommend. Im guessing just some honing. The sleeve has a bit of texture inside surface. I will measure the diameter inside in a few places when I get time.
     

Share This Page