International 304 Flywheel won't fit Crankshaft

Hello everyone. Any help you could give me would be much appreciated. I picked up a rebuilt 304 out of a '78 Scout II. I finally found a flywheel to mount an 11" clutch, which would be paired to a T-18 4 Speed Tranny. I just ran into a problem though, my flywheel inner diameter is about 3/16" too small to fit onto the crankshaft. The bolt patterns match up, but the crankshaft out diameter is to big to fit inside the flywheel inner diameter. Please see attached pictures. While doing some research on this forum, I noticed the rear of my crankshaft doesn't look anything like other 304's... Do you notice how the rear crankshaft protrudes much further than normal? Any help you could give me would be much appreciated!

 

Before I sound like too much of an idiot, I figured out I have a spacer on here for a flex plate instead of a flywheel. I’m trying to figure out how to get the dang thing off now.

 

Got it off! Does anyone want this spacer? If not, I suppose it will make a great paper weight.

 

Someone wanting to do an auto swap..

You need a pilot bearing in that flywheel before you're done.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

 

My lucky day. How much to send to 97355? PM me for details.

 

If it were me I'd be changing that rear main.

 

I’m pretty sure I can fit the adapter in a small enough box for flat rate shipping through USPS. PM me your address and it’s my gift to you, no charge. Binder owners helping binder owners.

 

Thanks Scott. I was told the rear main had been replaced... does it not look like it? It’s sat for about 5 years, but it hasn’t so much as turned an inch. I agree, I would want to change that rear main while I have it opened up.

 

Replace it. Also make sure you pre oil that engine. I’d also be changing most of he gaskets on that engine. Oil pan, valley pan, exhaust, valve cover etc.

 

I'm stumped. I have tried every bolt size possible to mount the clutch to the flywheel. So far I have tried 5/16-18, 5/16-24, 3/8-16, 3/8-24, m8-1.0, m8-1.25, m10-1.0, m10-1.25. The m8-1.0 was the closest fit, but wouldn't get tight. I don't think I am missing any bolt sizes to try. I guess my next step is to take it to a machine shop and have them tap/die new holes?

 

If you can't get a thread gauge inside the holes, first measure the ID of one using a calipers, and then find/whittle a stick to slightly over the diameter and screw it into the hole far enough to get as many threads as possible, the unscrew and measure the thread count from the stick. Even a fine ruler should give a decently accurate measurement, but since good tools are always needed and both the thread gauge and calipers are very reasonably priced, buy them if you don't already have any. An old copy of Machinery's Handbook, gotten online cheaply, is also worth having. This looks like a decent copy which is new enough to have mostly current information:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Machinerys...415638?hash=item1cd6d5bb56:g:nUEAAOSwOPldRrW-​

I doubt IH used any metric bolts even on flywheels of vehicles sent overseas, 'course, I can't say for sure...but still I'd bet it should be 3/8-24. If I were in your place, I'd double-check that size again.

 

Yup, re check it. IHC didn't use metric !

 

I appreciate it you guys. I'm going to try to measure the thread count now. I know IHC didn't use metric, but I was worried a PO tapped a different thread. Thanks for the advice. Fingers crossed.

 

Using

Dana, I used tin foil just like you described (instead of wood) to get a thread count. Wood is hard to come by in New Mexico, ha. I got a thread count of 16, and it is a 3/8 diameter. Problem solved! Thank you very much. Clutch to flywheel bolt size 3/8-16 x 3/4" if anyone ever needs to know.

 

Don't forget sealant on the threads-- I'm pretty sure lack of it is what had us convinced the rear main was leaking.

 

Well, I'm needing to rely on yall's expertise again. What keeps the clutch fork from backing off the throw out bearing assembly? I just ordered a new TOB assembly through SSS, and it was specified for a 4 speed T-18 tranny (picture attached). It's almost like the assembly is just a bit too tight and won't let the clutch fork fit good in the grooves. Even when I persuaded it to fit, then the clutch fork sat so tight on the TOB assembly, it wouldn't move when trying to manipulate the clutch lever. So my question is:
1) What keeps the clutch for from backing off the TOB assembly?
2) Is the clutch fork supposed to fit that tight in the grooves of the TOB assembly?

 

I think I had the throw out bearing assembly (collar) upside down... ‍♂️

 

Doesn't inverting it put the grease fitting on top, which I'd think would be highly unusual?
IH used a number of different clutch linkage versions over the years, including one or two cable types, and IIRC, the collars varied somewhat too. Is yours a genuine IH part, or might it be an aftermarket production which is slightly outside the specs?

 

This is a new old stock TOB collar. Genuine IHC. I’m kind of at a loss. I can’t find much info on the internet.

 

It definitely doesn’t go upside down...