I know the first thing guys want to do when hooking up their fuel injection set up is to start it up and hear it run.... Well there are a couple things that need to be done after the installation. Note: When setting the timing for the first time you must ensure the wiring is correct on the ignition module. The 2 wires from the pickup in the distr must be connected to the proper terminal, P and N on the module. To verify they are correct: A. Set engine to TDC compression stroke. For IH use #8 for V8s and #1 for 4 cyls. For all other makes use the correct plug. B. Remove the cap and verify the rotor phasing is correct IAW the distr conversion thread. Rotor should be just past center of the cap terminal in the direction of rotation(clockwise for IH) and the reluctor should be lined up. C. Connect timing light and disconnect the timing bypass connector. D. Crank engine to check timing. If the wires are connected properly then the timing will be within 5* of 0*. Just set timing to 0 and your good. If the timing is 20-30* away then swap the P and N wires and check again. When the distr is set, lock it down and do not move it for any reason Until you perform timing below. 1. Timing- There are 2 ways to do this. a. disconnect the bypass wire and set timing to 0° at idle when warm. procedure- warm up motor then turn off. unplug bypass. Start motor. Set timing to 0°. Turn off motor. Reconnect bypass. Unplug ECM to clear fault code. b. leave bypass connected and set timing to the value listed for your idle rpm and MAP setting at idle, based on your specific BCC-broadcast code. You can look up most BCC files in the speadsheet attached in the parts required faq. Procedure-start motor and warm up. Set timing to the value listed in the spark table. 2. IAC reset/min idle speed- This sets the throttle plate on the throttle body to a specific rpm. I recommend about 500 rpm for most engines. A little common sense goes a long way. Obviously a cold engine will not properly idle when you disconnect the idle control. So ensure your engine is up to temp prior to setting the min idle speed. Procedures- Go to sheet 7 of the pinout diagrams. At the top is the ALDL connector. You need to put a jumper between pins A and B of the connector. These are pins A9(wht/blk) and A12 (blk/wht) on the ECM. This puts the ECM into aldl mode. Turn the key on (not start) and the IAC should drive completely closed. You will normally hear a buzzing from the IAC. If you have the winaldl up and running on your laptop, you should see the IAC went from 145 to 0. Now unplug the IAC connector. turn the key off. Remove jumper. Start motor. If the idle is too low you may have to keep it running. On the front drivers side of the throttle body is the adjustment screw. It may be behind a silver plug. If so just use a nail or punch to poke it and remove it. Then use a #20 torx bit to adjust the idle speed to at least 100 rpm less then your warm idle speed. if 600 then set to 500 rpm. You are looking for the lowest consistant idle your motor will do. When set, turn off motor and reconnect the IAC. I try to keep the IAC count to about 40 with the motor warm and idling. If the counts drop to 0 then the IAC can no longer adjust the idle down. This is a good time to verify the operation of the IAC. When the jumper is in and the key is on the IAC is driven closed. So while it is idling to set min rpm put a finger over the IAC port just above the IAC. There should be no air being sucked in and you should be able to see the pintle on the IAC. When the IAC is connected and operating there should be a small amount of air being sucked in the port at idle and should increase as you apply some throttle. 3. TPS-throttle position sensor. With the idle set, you need to now set the TPS. This need to be set to about .54V. I normally shoot for about .2% on the sensor page or dash in winaldl. The TPS is on the passengers side and will have 2 screws holding it on. The factory TPS will not have much room in the holes for adjustments so I use a drill bit or file to elongate the holes as needed. To adjust, just loosen the screws and trist the TPS. You can monitor the voltage on Pin B of the connector with the key on or at pin C13 of the ECM. You can also see it on the sensors tab of winaldl!! Anything away from .54V will also show as a percent of throttle. Such as .2 percent or 1.7 percent...depending on how far from .54 you are. I try to keep the idle setting to within 1 percent. This is also a good time to check your TPS. Once it is set, just watch the voltage as you open the throttle. you should see a steady rise in voltage up to about 4.5-5V at WOT-wide open throttle. If it jumps up and down or skips some then you may want to replace it. 4. Fuel pressure- The system calculates the fuel needed based on the initial settings for injector size at a specific pressure. If the pressure changes then the fuel calculations will be off. I recommend checking the feed and return line pressures at the very beginning. This can save a lot of time later. The pressure is less then 15PSI so a simple cheap gauge is all that is needed. I picked up a HF fuel inj tester for $7 on sale. Comes with a T and a short rubber hose to install it. The feed side pressure should be about 13psi and should not change with rpm or load. The return should be near 0psi. If you get all these items done it will make the transition much smoother!! Good luck.