IH 300 Utility water pump leak

Discussion in 'Tractor Tech' started by sarookha, Mar 3, 2017.


  1. Greg R

    Greg R Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    The 300's pump is like the one on my 100 Farmall; except mine uses a seal instead of packing. With all the pumps I've packed, small to large on many applications, they all used rings you had to cut. The packing all comes spooled unless pre-cut, which is rare. Coiling won't do as good a job as you won't get an even pressure across the circumference of the gland, but there are some who do it that way I suppose. Teflon would be my choice followed by graphite impregnated. From looking in the parts manual across a few models, lantern rings aren't seen in some tractor water pumps.
     
  2. kevingweq

    kevingweq Y-Block King

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    I was taught this method by my father and after reading manuals and manufacturers literature the procedure
    that Greg outlined of cutting the packing into individual rings is "Correct"
    I will say that using a continuous piece has worked,and is still working on water pumps ( vehicle,agricultural etc,) and hydraulic rams
    and a few sewer ejector pumps ( I wonder if slow speed , in and out packing used this method ?) Like the thin rope packing for steam valves.
    Perhaps luck or perhaps the type of packing that was used played a part , ( may have been asbestos)
    I will definitely cut separate rings for my T-20 pump when the time comes

    I also noticed in the 300U parts manual the diesel had a "modern" seal ,while the gas engine had the mechanical packing style
     
  3. sarookha

    sarookha Farmall Cub

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    Update: I had to use three different suppliers to get the parts I needed for this rebuild. Steiner had the shaft oil seals. Bates Corp. had the hub bearings and the felt ring that goes between the hub and the pump body. For the 1/8" packing rope, well it is the same stuff they use to rebuild faucets, so found it at the local hardware store in the plumbing section. Yes. 1/8". Even that was hard to cram into the tiny gap between the impeller shaft and the pressed-in shaft housing.

    Biggest challenge was that the grease fitting that serves the hub bearings had been sheared off so long ago that there was no evidence that the gaping hole in the front edge of the hub had ever even had threads in it. The bearings were dry, obviously, and were a real PITA to get out of the hub, even though the loose balls were falling out all by themselves. Once it was all out, I pre-heated the hub, built up the zerk fitting hole with stainless (MIG, with Argon/CO2), the re-drilled and tapped for a new fitting.

    The shop manual was somewhat helpful, but it would have been nice if the re-assembly instructions mentioned that once the hub is mounted on the pump body, there isn't enough clearance for the water pump mounting bolts. So had to take it back apart, put the two longer bolts in their holes first, THEN re-assemmble and finally bolt her onto the front of the engine block.

    Added coolant, tightened up a dripping hose, and she's off and running.
     
  4. Dana Strong

    Dana Strong Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Nice to read how someone with ability, equipment and the drive to use them does something like this correctly.
    That said, don't we still need the pictures? :cornfused:[Hopefully, all stages of the work!]
     
  5. sarookha

    sarookha Farmall Cub

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    Thanks for the kind words! I had forgotten that I had started this thread, so by the time I thought about photos it was already back together...
     

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