Ignition systems for the Duraspark Conversion

Discussion in 'Injection Tech' started by Bill USN-1, Jan 25, 2006.


  1. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2002
    Messages:
    17,120
    Likes Received:
    289
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Whidbey Island, WA
    You are better off just going to the junkyard and grabbing the factory stuff off a couple cars/trucks.
    Even the coil connectors.
    There are 2 of them but they are different. A blk one that goes to the ignition module and a grey one that goes to the vehicle wiring.

    I prefer the lower profile v6 coil brackets. Most v8's are taller.
     
  2. Spirit_of_61

    Spirit_of_61 Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2007
    Messages:
    120
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    16
    Location:
    BRUNSWICK, GA
    Since starting to consider this project, I have been to several local JYs..:censored:
    $50 duraspark dizzy for a base plate.... NO way

    I finally got one off of eBay for $20 and I am ready to start my holley conversion over my Christmas vacation.

    IMG-20121213-00725.jpg IMG-20121213-00726.jpg

    A lot of the older vehicles have been crushed and the money value of time sometimes makes it easier/cheaper to buy new or eBay. Maybe it is just that the JYs around me stink?...

    Could you take photos of the connectors? I have not figured those out completely.
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2012
  3. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2002
    Messages:
    17,120
    Likes Received:
    289
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Whidbey Island, WA
  4. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2001
    Messages:
    7,469
    Likes Received:
    988
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Aliquippa Pa
    Bill
    Have one small question,I think I know the answer but will ask.Iam gathering parts(well realy just need to do it now)duraspark with carb for now.On the 4 pin module there are two wiring diagrams at the begining of the thread,the W and G wires are reversed from each other,does it mater whitch way these go ro is it basicly just a switch.
    Thanks Jeff
     
  5. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2002
    Messages:
    17,120
    Likes Received:
    289
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Whidbey Island, WA
    The W and g are the White and Green wires from the pick up in the distr.
    This is the same as the P and n of the 8 pin for the EFI conversion.
    So it depends on the distr rotation which is correct.
    And to be honest I don't remember.
    I'll have to run out to the shop and look at one of mine on the shelf.
    But it's pretty easy to figure out.
    Once you have the distr set up and the phasing set, drop it in and set TDC with the reluctor lined up.
    Then when you crank it and check the timing it will either be correct or will be more than 20* off.
    If wrong just swap the wire and check again.

    Seems you are milking this conversion out!!
    When was the nationals?;)
     
  6. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2001
    Messages:
    7,469
    Likes Received:
    988
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Aliquippa Pa
    And its not even going in that truck.
    Thanks that seems easy enough,been way to busy with seats and the scout I was building.
    Jeff
     
  7. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2002
    Messages:
    17,120
    Likes Received:
    289
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Whidbey Island, WA
    Just checked the stock GM.
    It has green to P and we use purple to P on the 8 pin so it "should" be Purple to the G and org to the W of the 4pin.
    edit:
    Just rechecked pg 1 and that was the only way i see it shown on the diagrams for the 4 pin.


    [​IMG]
     
  8. schirtzy

    schirtzy Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2014
    Messages:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    simpsonville
    i just tried to use the gm hei and it did not last long enough to warm the motor up the dizzy is a durospark and the coil is a tfi....i burnt up 2 4 pin i thought i mounted them good ... question how long will they last if you don't heat sink them ?
     
  9. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2002
    Messages:
    17,120
    Likes Received:
    289
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Whidbey Island, WA
    If not properly mounted like the FAQs show on alum or steel with the paste.... A minute or two.
     
  10. binderbound

    binderbound High Wheeler

    Joined:
    May 26, 2002
    Messages:
    2,211
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Location:
    Redmond, Or
    When setting up the distributor for a carbed set up, do I still want to set the dist rotor slightly ahead of the #8 plug on the cap like on the FI version?
     
  11. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2002
    Messages:
    17,120
    Likes Received:
    289
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Whidbey Island, WA
    no. centered just like it is now with the points or holley GB.
     
  12. binderbound

    binderbound High Wheeler

    Joined:
    May 26, 2002
    Messages:
    2,211
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Location:
    Redmond, Or
    Can you edit the distributor thread please? I read it a few times and then read a comment in another thread that made me question the phasing.

    Bought my module today, dug out my DS parts, GM coil, and holley dist, so I'm hoping to do this conversion this weekend.

    I plan on using the original coil hot wire to trigger a relay that sends a full 12v from the battery to the GM epoxy coil. That shouldn't hurt the coil or ignition parts right?
     
  13. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2002
    Messages:
    17,120
    Likes Received:
    289
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Whidbey Island, WA
    No, the relay is what I recommended to you on the phone.
    No ballast with the newer systems.
    I'll have to work on editing it. It has too many pics in one post to allow it.
     
  14. binderbound

    binderbound High Wheeler

    Joined:
    May 26, 2002
    Messages:
    2,211
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Location:
    Redmond, Or
    Yes, I was just making sure I understood you correctly. Thank you!
     
  15. Ruper22

    Ruper22 Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2009
    Messages:
    18
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Location:
    Chesapeake, VA
    Wiring the E Coil for the DS/Holley dist. 4 pin GM Module.
    I see in previous thread, that the Black Connector of the GM Coil goes to the module and the Gray connector goes to ignition. Can anyone tell me how it goes considering I have a remote Starter Solenoid hooked up already.
    Will not be FI just carb for now.
    Which wire Pink or White is (+), which Neg (-), and I will be going ahead and putting a relay in to send full 12v to the coil.

    Is one the s term and one the I term?
    Or is one the S term and the other placed on the wire from the switch that goes to the existing round coil?
    Everything else is done, dizzy is stabbed, 7inch vacuum advance just need to make sure of the wiring.
     
  16. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2002
    Messages:
    17,120
    Likes Received:
    289
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Whidbey Island, WA
    I think your confusing starter solenoid with a bosch relay.
    The GM coil gray connector has a large pink wire that connects to ignition 12v. This should be from the bosch relay output, pin 87 IIRC.
    See the wiring FAQ for relay specifics.
    The white wire is the neg- side of the coil for a tach(optional)
    The black coil connector goes to the ignition module. pink wire to B (batt/ignition/+/12v) terminal and white wire to C (coil/neg/-) terminal.
     
  17. Ruper22

    Ruper22 Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2009
    Messages:
    18
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Location:
    Chesapeake, VA

    Thanks that clears it up now.
    Great info and I appreciate it. I think I got it now, still have to install the Bosch Relay, but here we go now.
     
  18. Ruper22

    Ruper22 Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2009
    Messages:
    18
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Location:
    Chesapeake, VA
    Now Timing is my issue. I got all setup just as directed and the truck did start, however it was running at very high rpm's. I had recently rebuilt the carburetor so I had reset the idle circuit so no problem. Ran the engine a while and when I was adjusting the idle I tried to look at the timing. I could not get the timing marks to read, it was not even on the indicator. I switched the wires thinking I had the module to 4 pin backward and got nothing at all, in any dist position. So I put them back but the truck will only run if the dist vacuum advance is tight up against the water pump.
    I checked reluctor alignment about 5 times and everything lined up correct.
    What would you suggest for me to do now? Can I adjust the reluctor one way or the other to make the dist have more room for adjusting timing?
    I tried to adjust the dist back one tooth, but in the process I had left the key on and burned up the E-coil. I did put in a bosch relay so the coil got a full 12V, and it did, for too long and smoked it.
    When it was running it was strong, so I really want to see this through. tomorrow I plan to reinstitute the old coil after checking the specs to make sure it won't burn my module..

    All this time I have been making sure I checked #8 TDC and dist timing so I am a little in the dark on what to do to try to get this right.
     
  19. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2002
    Messages:
    17,120
    Likes Received:
    289
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Whidbey Island, WA
    Are you using ported or manifold vacuum?
    If the idle changes when you connect the vacuum hose then you are using manifold vacuum and can move it to a ported vacuum port. It will only have vacuum as you slowly open the throttle.
    The idle speed should be set with the vacuum adv disconnected and plugged.
     
  20. Ruper22

    Ruper22 Farmall Cub

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2009
    Messages:
    18
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Location:
    Chesapeake, VA
    Had vac. Adv. Disconnected, vacuum line plugged.

    Carb is a holley the vac adv port is on the side of the fuel bowl, and yes that one is ported, but it was not connected therefore no advance.

    I'm going to put on the old coil 1.4 ohms (Accel 8140 coil) I take it and try it again tonight or tomorrow depending on time, hopefully it settles down. I would like to do this on my 4 banger as well if I can get my stuff straight unfortunately it did not run long enough to fiddle with the carb so the idle screws may have been out too far although the vacuum gauge, hooked to manifold vac said different. I had these set to previous setting from before I rebuilt the carb and the ignition. Shame on me for changing two factors at the same time, but what was I to do when I was waiting on ignition parts.

    I'll check back when I can give it another try. It seemed like the coil had burnt before I smoked it via the key though, It may have shorted out somehow, cause I had no fire to the #8 plug when I was testing, when I left the key on too long and sent a smoke signal from the coil.

    Thanks for you time Bill.
     

Share This Page