I need a new carb

Discussion in 'IH Parts America' started by rmuhlbar, Sep 6, 2011.


  1. rmuhlbar

    rmuhlbar Farmall Cub

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    Gentlemen,

    Thanks to all contributors, this site has been a big help. I have heard from more than a few this is the place to find a carburetor/help.

    I have a '72 1210 with 345 cui engine. It sat for 15 years and is in great condition, I just can't get it running well. With presumed carburetor problems, I cleaned and put a kit in the carb (2300, list 6391). I found rust in the fuel filter so I changed the filter and pump. I installed a new fuel line and removed the tank and cleaned it. I timed it. It still won't run right.

    It will start (barely) but won't idle. It idles way rich and I hear a hissing/squirting noise in the carb throat. I have replaced the power valve twice. I removed the metering block and lightly sanded it to make it true, I hope. I have adjusted the float height and idle mixture screws until I am blue in the face. When I adjust the idle mixture screw all the way in, it does not die--but then it won't idle anyway, I have to open the throttle to get it to run. I am ready to start over with a new carb.

    Does anyone have a rebuilt 2300 they want to sell/trade for mine? If not, what new carb should I buy? Thanks for any help.
     
  2. Bill Bennett

    Bill Bennett High Wheeler

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    Did you time the engine using cyl #8 = rear on passenger side? Try maybe +5 deg advanced to start. As for the 2 bbl carb, consider going to the Holley #7448, 350 cfm carb. The original carb is more like a 275 cfm. Did you set the float level so the fuel is 'just below' the sight plug on the passenger side while the vehicle was level and the motor 'running'? The fuel should not dribble out of the hole - unless the truck is rocked side to side. Check for vacuum leaks by disconnecting and plugging anything that might be a source for a vacuum leak, including the line to the vacuum advance on the distributor. Sanding the metering block was not a good idea. There are/were little ridges that bite into the gasket between the sections to prevent leakage. The sections that 'warp' on the 2300 carb will be the bottom of the main body where it mounts to the throttle plate. If the carb has the 1/4" thick Holley gasket, it still will need a regular gasket on both sides as the thick gasket is more for a 'heat shield' for the carb fuel bowl. If the carb has been been 'over tightened' to the manifold, that can bend the throttle plate. When the base of the main body developes a vacuum leak with the throttle base, the vacuum signal at the power valve chamber drops (like at full throttle) the power valve opens and dumps additional fuel into the venturi.
     
  3. Jeff Ismail

    Jeff Ismail High Wheeler

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    IH Only North sells brand new Holley 2300 carbs set up with electric choke and jetted for your application. We also have remanufactured carbs for sale when available and also offer rebuilding services. Best to call for more information if interested and talk to one of our sales staff.

    (530)268-0864
     

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