HOW-TO. Scout Intermittent (Pulse) Wiper Motor with a GM (Saginaw) Steering Column Switch.

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by punjig, May 1, 2017.


  1. punjig

    punjig Farmall Cub

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    HOW-TO. Scout Intermittent (Pulse) Wiper Motor with a GM (Saginaw) Steering Column Switch.

    So I decided to Hybrid my “Project Double D’s” Scout Lower Steering Column with a 1994 GMC Steering Column. The reason I did this was for moving the Wiper Switch from the Dash to the Column to make way for an A/C Vent going in its place.

    Here is my Write-Up On How To Do It:
    HOW-TO. Scout II Tilt Steering Column (GM Hybrid) Interchange
    http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/...steering-column-gm-hybrid-interchange.135890/


    After figuring out how to Hybrid the Column together I had full function of the wipers for Low and Hi. This however was not an acceptable option. On my build I believe that if I’m going to take the time to do something I want FULL functionality. So, it was head scratching time.

    Before I get started, this write up is for using a GM Steering column with the wipers on the column and making EVERYTHING function like it did in the GM Donor vehicle. I know a few people have used Jeep stuff to make this work, and I am sure there are other ways to get full functionality. However, some out there have already put GM columns in their Scout II’s and may want to use this guide to get wiper speeds of something than just Low or High.

    I did look into MANY options for this to work. I even looked into using a Pontiac Fierro Control Board, but it would require changing out the switch in the Column and they don’t make the switch anymore. When I did locate a switch it was going to cost in the $100 range from multiple sellers, so that idea was shot.

    First off, before I get into the How-To I wanted to make a general statement that many of us Scout II owners know far too well. F@^%ing IH, why couldn’t you give us more room to work with when it comes to retrofitting a Wiper Motor for these Scout II’s!

    Ok, now that that is out of the way, on to it.
    I placed a picture at the end of this write-up that will show the exact wiring and what colors go to what.
    Note: the plug under the steering column has a Pink Jumper Wire; this just needs to be ignored. You will use ONLY use the White, Gray, and Purple on this plug.
    Also Note: The Orange wire off of the Control Board will go to the Positive of the Washer Motor (Pump), GM uses a pink wire on their Pumps so I indicated it in the diagram as Orange to Pink.

    There are a couple of items needed for this write up to work.
    All of the parts I used were from the local Pick-A-Part.

    I spent the price of the GM Column Swap which came out to $80 for the Column at the Pick-A-Part and around $75 for NEW internal switches for the Column. Approximately $150ish Total.
    Assuming that all that is needed if the column is already in your Scout is the motors, it cost me a total of $12 per motor x 2 (GMC & Saturn) = $24

    1 – a GM column form a 1988-1998 (not sure of exact years, I used a 1994) Chevy or GMC Truck.
    001.JPG
    2 – The Wiper Motor out of the same truck. See pics below; you want to make sure it is the motor that includes the Wiper Pulse Board.
    01.JPG

    3 – The Wiper Motor out of a 2001 L100, L200 Saturn. These motors fit PERFECT without any modifications needed to either the motor or the Scout’s bracket. See pics below; make sure it looks like the same motor as shown. I noticed they changed motors in some of the different years and they were not going to fit.
    14b.jpg My Pic is of motor in Scout Bracket, so ignore the Bracket. Mine also had rivets holding the cover onto the housing like the motor above. I had to drill them out to peek inside the motor and see what wires went where to figure out how to wire it all up, so ignore the bolts holding mine back together.
    14a.JPG
    Also, Make sure it is a 5 wire Plug. (Mine were colored: White, Green, Brown, Black, and Yellow) They all should be the same coloring.
    08.JPG

    4 – Both Male and Female wiring ends of the above mentioned while you’re at the Pick-A-Part. Also leave plenty of wire to work with.
    07.JPG
    001a.JPG
    001b.JPG

    Let’s get to it:
    First thing that needs done is to pop the GMC Motor open and dig out the Control Module. Set it aside and finish gutting the rest of the GMC Motor from its housing. Don’t worry about keeping track of what goes where. We only need the Control Module Board, The Board Cover, The Housing, and the Rubber Feet of the Housing. Also, might as well keep the small screws that hold the motor to the housing.
    03.JPG
    Probably the hardest part of the job will be the next step. You don’t have to perform this step like I did BUT you will need to figure out a safe housing for your Control Board. This is how I did it.
    I took a 4 1/2 cut off wheel on my Grinder and started by hacking off the back of the motor housing. I also used a Dermal to remove some of the material on the inside so that it won’t be in the way of my 3 motor contacts on my board. I then skinned part of my housing out with some Aluminum. Here are a few Pics of what I ended up with.
    11.JPG
    12.JPG
    13.JPG
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2017
  2. punjig

    punjig Farmall Cub

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    I used the hole in the bottom to run my pigtail trough that goes from the Control Board to the Saturn Motor.

    OK, once that is done we will need to break out the Soldering Iron and make some modification to our Control Module. There will be 5 solder points altogether. We need to cut (to make them shorter, NOT off) the 2 contacts that make connection between the Board and the Wheel of the Motor. We will need to take the Male end of our Saturn Motor Plug and solder the wire onto the board. Pay attention to what colors go where.
    07.JPG DON’T FORGET TO RUN YOU WIRES THROUGH THE BOTTOM HOLE IN THE HOUSING. This is what it should look like when it is done.
    05.JPG
    06.JPG

    On to the Saturn Motor: There is only 1 modification needed on the motor itself.
    You will need to cut the 2 Black wires on the motor and splice (I soldered mine together since I had the Iron out anyways) them together. Please see the Pics.
    09.JPG
    10.JPG

    With that done we can now move on to building a Pivot arm. This is what the assembly should look like at this point.
    14.JPG
    A couple of things to note about the old Scout Motor and the new Saturn Motor. The shaft on the old Scout Motor sticks out further then the Saturn Motor. I corrected this by using a bigger step pivot arm. By the time I put the arm into place with the Motor mounted it ended up being the exact same depth as the Scout pivot arm. This is an important part of this modification because there is not a lot of room to mess around with behind the motor once it is mounted. If you pivot arm is too deep it will hit the firewall behind where the motor mounts, if it is not deep enough the pivot arm will not clear the 3 mounting bolts where the motor mounts the Scout Motor Bracket.
    30.JPG 31.JPG 32.JPG

    In all of the many motors I pulled from the Pick-A-Part I am not 100% sure that this was the Pivot arm that came with the Saturn Motor. I am pretty sure it is, But if it is not just look for one pretty close to this arm.

    I used a 5/16th shoulder bolt at the local hardware store and I cut it to the proper length. I drilled out the old Pivot point on the arm and installed (welded in) the cut off shoulder bolt. Pay attention to make sure it is proper length as the shoulder should sit flush with the connecting linkage.

    The picture doesn’t show it but I also had to remove about half of the threading on the shoulder bolt of the now new Pivot arm. I left just enough to get a low profile nut onto it. A full size nut will cause conflict with the firewall. I also used some Locktight to make sure the nut stayed on. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN THE NUT, or your linkage will bind up.
    33.JPG
    34.JPG
    36.JPG
     
  3. punjig

    punjig Farmall Cub

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    37.JPG

    I ran a test fit on an old Windshield frame I have, I ran some temporary wiring and verified that everything worked. It all ran just as it did on the GM Donor Vehicle. The Washer Pump, Intermediate Timings, Hi, Low and Sprinkle settings all ran flawlessly. Once Again:
    DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN THE NUT, or your linkage will bind up.
    38.JPG

    With everything up and running I went ahead and made the permanent mount. I did have to trial fit everything a couple of time because of the pivot arm hitting the back of the firewall, but after about the 3rd install I got it running in the clear. Here are some Pics of the final install. I drilled 3 small holes into the bottom of the Control Board Housing for mounting bolts. I install 3 Rivet Nuts into the cowling and I used the 3 Rubber Feet off of the GM Motor housing to give it a little lift. I did this for 2 reasons. One; I didn’t want water getting into the housing and Two; I had to run the pig tail through the hole in the bottom. The rubber feet provided a seal so water cannot enter the cab though the rivet nuts.

    40.JPG
    41.JPG
    42.JPG


    001b.JPG

    Here is a Diagram I made of the wiring, I is all color coordinated in accordance to what needs hooked up to what. You will wire the Control Board plug (Pic Above) as indicated in the diagram.
    GMC To IH Scout Wiring Diagam.jpg
     
  4. punjig

    punjig Farmall Cub

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    I also included a PDF for easy Download.
    And A PDF of the original GMC Wiring Diagram.

    If anyone is interested, I included a link to get Free Wiring Diagrams
    http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html

    Feel Free to hit me up with any Questions!
     

    Attached Files:

  5. punjig

    punjig Farmall Cub

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    Go Check Out My Build Thread HERE: Project Double D's
    I hope this helps the community!
     
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  6. CoopVA

    CoopVA Binder Driver

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    That's awesome! Great writeup!
     
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  7. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Thanks for the great writeup.
     
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  8. ScottTX

    ScottTX Farmall Cub

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    Unreal write-up. Thanks! Great project!
     
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