How to read and change the program in your GM ECM!

Discussion in 'Injection Tech' started by Bill USN-1, Jan 30, 2006.

  1. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    OK since there are a few guys here that are trying to go a little deeper than just install, I figure I will post some of what I do... And don't use these files for your motor!!! you don't know what I'm playing with!!!
    Keep in mind this is not a tuning site!!! But I will provide all the basics you need to get just about any engine up and running with EFI. I discuss most of what "NEEDS" to be adjusted but not everything that "CAN" be adjusted and played with.

    OVERVIEW
    Tunerpro has 2 parts to it.
    1 part allows you to change the settings in the bin(tune). It requires a file(xdf) that contains the parameters for the specific PCM you are using. The bad part is that those individual files are assembled/hacked from the factory bins by tuning enthusiast and not professionals. The files may contain errors that can have ill effects on your tuning process.
    This part of Tunerpro performs the same functions as Tunercat described in the FAQs.
    The good part is that Tunnerpro is shareware so it is free to download and only asked for a donation if you like it.
    Tunercat is free to download and use for 30 days with the tuning file for the 1227747 $42 ECM. (the one we use most on here)

    The second part of Tunerpro is the data logging. It also requires a separate file(adx) to interpret the data stream from the ECM into usable data. All of the data is flowing all the time, it's the individual adx files that determine which data you see. These files are also written by enthusiast. The data logging is actually separate from the tuning but open within the same screen.
    This part of Tunerpro function like Winaldl shown in the FAQs.


    Real Time (RT) tuning/emulating. This function allows you to tune as you drive with the correct hardware attached. Both Tunerpro and Tunercat have versions of their software available to do this. The most common hardware used is provided by Moates.net such as the APU-1 or Ostrich.

    Programming/Burning chips. This function is actually reading or burning the bin file to and from the chip. It requires hardware and software like the Moates.net APU-1 or Burn 1 or the GQ-4X Programmer shown in the FAQs.
    They all come with their own software to perform the functions and have a specific list of chips they are capable of programming. The Moates.net programmers can read the chip(2732) from the 1227747 ECM but can not program them. See the FAQs for details or alternatives.
    The GQ-4X can read and burn the 2732 chips.

    Neither Tunerpro or Tunercat can perform the programming function. Tunerpro can access the Moates.net software from a button on it's tool bar but it simply opens the Moates flash and burn software.



    Before you start you need to make sure the fuel pressures are right.
    Inlet is about 12psi and does not change even under full throttle.
    Return should be 0.

    Next, if you didn't follow the basics and pick a system as close to your engine size as possible then you may need to adjust the BPW-base pulse width. This calculation is used as the base number for all the other fuel calculations in the program.
    I have attached the speadsheet below. It will allow you to calc the output of your injectors at different fuel pressures and will give you a new BPW based on your input. To me they seem to run a little high when compared to GM's factory BPW. This new number is input in the constants of the bin file.

    Then:
    When you log data you want to save the BLM table by clicking save at the end of your drive and you want to click the data logger button and set it up by checking all boxes except the raw box. You should click start logging before you start the engine and stop logging after you turn it off.

    First you start with a bin file from a motor combination close to yours. Same as picking the right parts, 350 for 345/305 for 304/I use the 350 for the 392.

    I normally start with the ASDU file.

    You will then need the cable to log your data from your ECM while you drive. I use winaldl and the 1 transistor cable. See bottom of page

    OR
    You can now buy a direct USB cable from me for $30. See the machine shop forum under Hamilton fuel injection. It plugs directly into your usb port and connects directly to the ALDL connector on the harness. No adapter needed.

    [​IMG]


    The ALDL cable does not include the ALDL connector. That will be mounted where ever you chose. I just keep mine in the glove box.

    All you do is use a couple 1/8 spade terminals or simply tin the ends of the wire and put the ground in "A" and the serial data line in "E"

    [​IMG]

    The diagram shows the pin numbers from the back where you connect the wires.

    This pic shows the DB9 serial connector with the numbers on the front face of it, just in case you get confused.

    [​IMG]


    Here is what the BLM data looks like. Everything above 128 is lean, everything below is rich based on 14.7:1 AFR (stoick)!!

    [​IMG]

    NOTE: ALDLTOBIN is an optional program for making VE table corrections. IF you use it, it should only be used once or twice to rough the table in and then manual adjustments should be made from that point on. If the tables are within 10% if 128 BLM then the program should not be used.


    So I take the new logged BLM data(blm.txt) and input it into the "ALDLTOBIN" program(file attached below)...with the bin file(4-24.bin) I am using. I tell it what ecm I am using(1227747) and finally what correction tables I want to use. (W)
    If you have ever logged BLM data then looked at the data under word or excel you would see all the wide and narrow blm tables. Then at the end of the list is the narrow and wide correction tables. These are what the program uses to calculate the new changes. It's all pretty straight forward math that I used to do 1 cell at a time to make corrections...well you can guess how long that took!!!! : mad : So this little program will take your FL1+FL2 add them together then apply the correction for you.

    [​IMG]


    And it writes me a new bin with the fuel table changes made.

    I then open the new bin in either tunercat or tunerpro to edit the bin files. Both work and can be used for free.The graphs are a little better on the tunercat so I will show those here. (EDIT: the latest version of tuner pro now has color Graphs!!!)

    Here is the new modified fuel table.

    [​IMG]

    Note the peaks and valleys...This is mild compared to most.
    Here it is after I do my own manual smoothing. I try not to have any uneven gaps or spaces between cells. That can lead to a lean spot on accelleration or a dead spot on driving.

    [​IMG]

    You need to remember that not every cell on the logging gets data so they are not all changed. You need to log as much as possible under all conditions, highway, city, WOT, and you can't just sample the data once and call it good. There would be no avg. I try to log a min of 30 min drive time, and even that is iffy. But that is how long my drive to work is!!! The winaldl program will keep the data if you get to work just save the BLM table(just in case) then carry the laptop in to work and plug it in till it's time to go home.
    Then hook the cable back up and drive home. It will keep adding data until you close the program. This is just for the BLM tables.
    I don't really recommend you do the actual data logging option at the top of the program that way. The file will get pretty big especially if you save RAW data!!

    When you smooth your table, look at what you are changing. If you were really rich and the aldltobin lowered a lot of cells, you would see some large up spikes on the table. If you moved the data up to match those, you would be right back where you started from!!!

    If you change anything...air filter, injectors, plugs, timing...then you should recheck your fuel tables.
    The ECM compensates for small changes so you don't have to burn a new chip each time, but it will let you know where your at with your tune.

    Some other basics to tuning to keep in mind when using an auto adjust program like ALDLTOBIN.


    1. The TBI goes into PE mode in the upper map areas. When it logs data there, it is either just returning to closed loop or just going out of closed loop. The data is probably already lean since ideal is about 12-12.5:1AFR. But the Narrow band O2 will see it as rich.(richer then 14.7:1)
    So when a program starts leaning out the upper columns..it's normally too lean. You will see this best with a wideband O2.

    2. As mentioned earlier, the cells tend to overlap. If the cells are 400 and 600 at 30 map then the 400 cell is actuall 300-500 and the 600 is 500 to 700.

    So this is a main reason I manually smooth after each adjustment to keep the table from producing peaks and valleys.

    3. The system is designed to adjust for varying conditions. This means that it can tolerate up to about 10% deviation without a problem.
    You should not and do not need to chase a cell around to get it perfect at 128. 1° temp change will change the cell. So if you log data at night then make corrections and drive it in the morning. the table will look off some.
    That's whay a lot of data logging is needed to get a good avg. the 30min runs will get you in the ball park!!

    4. Once you have the fuel done....then comes timing. which will also affect the fuel!!!!
    Bottom line...don't waste time trying to perfect the fuel table. understand the basic requirements and tune it to that. Then work the timing.

    When done, come back and make a final fuel correction.
    _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________




    CHIP BURNING

    I used to use a USTR.net programmer to burn chips it works well but requires a parallel printer port on your computer,

    [​IMG]

    But now I use the MCUMall GQ-4x. It's a usb programmer that can do the old 2732 eproms and the newer 27sf512 EEPROMs listed below.

    [​IMG]


    and the Romulator to do realtime driving and tuning.(not required)
    I also have to erase my chips each time before I program them, with a UV eraser.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]



    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



    For a second option for DIY programming that I think is better if you are just starting out, is to go to www.Moates.net and get the socket adapter for the EEPROM and the burn one.

    Then you can reprogram your chips without the need of an eraser.
    Plus you only need the one chip!!

    What's In My Cart?
    Remove Product(s) Qty. Total
    1- G2 Memory Adapter: 0.6" Spacing
    $30.00
    2- C1 Atmel AT29C256 Chip
    $6 ea. = $12.00
    1- S2 Aries 28-pin ZIF Socket
    $10.00 (optional)
    1- BURN1 Flash-n-Burn USB-Based Chip Programmer
    $85.00
    1- FREE Moates.Net Sticker with $100 purchase (required)

    Sub-Total: $137.00

    G2 Memory Adapter: 0.6" Spacing [Model: G2-0.6] $30.00

    [​IMG]

    Product Description: Allows use of new Flash chips in many GM TBI setups. If the original application accepted a 24-pin chip such as a 2732A, then this adapter will allow you to upgrade to new Flash chips such as the AT29C256 and 27SF512. Soldering required (see product web page). This is the unit which will work if your original application had the chip holder with leg spacing of 0.6". Just check before ordering, you'll need to take the ECM apart to find out. Comes with everything you need to replace your stock chip holder with a standardized 28-pin chip socket that is compatible with the newer Flash chips. Installation service available for $25 if you're not comfortable soldering.

    C1 Atmel AT29C256 Chip

    [​IMG]

    Product Description: This is the most popular chip. Replaces 27C128 and 27C256. Works great in many applications such as Honda, GM TPI / 93 LT1 / etc. These are 90ns 28-pin chips, direct replacement for 27C256 chips, can be flash-reprogrammed many times without UV eraser. Can be used in place of 27C128s and 2732As (with G2 adapter) as well, just program them with an offset (start of device = 4000 hex for 27C128 original, 7000 hex for 2732A original).


    S2 Aries 28-pin ZIF Socket

    [​IMG]

    Product Description: Very durable 28-pin ZIF socket. With this socket installed, you'll be able to switch chips in and out of your G1 adapter or other application very quickly and easily! Heavy-duty construction, very good contact with pins. Great for emulation interfacing! For use with 29C256/27C128/27C256/27SF512/27C512 type systems. Package GP1 comes with this socket already. Goes well with a G2 adapter as well. This socket will not clearance some of the Honda ECUs, so we recommend the low profile S4 for those applications.


    BURN1 Flash-n-Burn USB-Based Chip Programmer [Model: BURN1] $85.00

    Burn1 img

    Product Description: USB Chip Programmer works with the AT29C256, 27SF512, and AM29F040 chips. Self-powered from the USB port, so no power adapter is needed! Burner can also be used to read stock GM memcals using the HDR1 adapter. While it will only program the three types of chips listed, please note that those three chips can be used as drop-in replacements for most EFI applications. Comes with stand-alone chip programming software (available for download). Also compatible with TunerPro RT. Will read most stock-style chips (2732A, 27C128/256/512/etc).

    FREE Moates.Net Sticker with $100 purchase
    [​IMG]

    For a complete install of these components Click here!

    [​IMG]



    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



    For a third option you can simply replace the 2732 chip for a modified 27SF512 chip that is described HERE. Then you simply use the Moates Burn one to program it.

    [​IMG]
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 27, 2014
  2. Cartman

    Cartman Farmall Cub

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    I'm wondering what I will need to be able to log data - I found this:

    [​IMG]
    ALDU1 USB-to-ALDL Converter
    USB-based ALDL converter box. Goes between your PC and a CABL1 or CABL2. Works great, unlike most USB/Serial converters. Goes straight from USB to ALDL. Does NOT work with a serial port. Compatible with all the popular programs in Windows (TunerPro, DataMaster, WinALDL). Will do 160-baud and 8192-baud communication. Not for use with the 'Moates' ECM852 software or other DOS-based programs. Self-powered via USB, and it has a built-in switch to select mode (up=10k, middle=open, down=short) for the A-B pins. Comes with a 6-ft USB cable, but requires either the CABL1 or CABL2 for connection to the car, depending on your application. The RJ-type-looking connector you see in the picture is for the CABL1 and CABL2, and it is not a standard RJ-type connector.

    And then this cable:
    [​IMG]
    Works with pre-1995 GM ALDL ports. You need this to log data on your GM. Connects directly to AutoProm or ALDU1. Is used on most pre-1996 GM EFI cars. Does NOT work by itself! Requires the ALDU1 or APU1 to actually interface to the PC!
     
  3. Cartman

    Cartman Farmall Cub

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    Will those above things work or is there a cheaper solution?
     
  4. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    NOTE: The ALDL cable does not include the ALDL connector. That will be mounted where ever you chose. I just keep mine in the glove box.

    All you do is use a couple 1/8 spade terminals or simply tin the ends of the wire and put the ground in "A" and the serial data line in "E"


    Here is the diagram to make your own cable.
    $6 at radio shack for the parts!! I have also bought them on Ebay for $2+ shipping!!!

    [​IMG]

    Here is what it looks like assembled. It all fits in the DB9 serial connector.
    Or you can make the circuit on a little bread board in line on the cable.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    You only need 2 wires to log data!!

    [​IMG]


    If your laptop does not have a serial port then you will need an USB to Serial adapter.

    I have used the pcmcia to serial cards.

    And I currently use the IO Gear GUC232 cable.

    Normal price is $32.95
    [​IMG]

    DO NOT BUY A CHEAP USB TO SERIAL ADAPTER CABLE UNLESS IT COMES WITH THE DRIVER DISK!!!!!
    They will not work!!!!!


    EBAY

    ALDL (Assembly Line Diagnostic Link) cable(obd-1) Item number: 4609757339
    Starting bid: US $2.50
    (PayPal account required)
    buy it now price: US $10.00 (guess he got smart, no more $2 cables)

    Or

    Buy this one and remove the R4 resistor!!!! ;)

    ALDL (Assembly Line Diagnostic Link) cable carb version Item number: 4608689528
    Current bid: US $2.60
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2006
  5. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    New Toys Arrived!!

    OK, my package from Moates arrived today.
    Packaging was very good.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The actual EEPROM burner is very small. It can also read the 2732 EPROM chips but can't program them.

    [​IMG]

    Here is the adapter and chips. They are 28 pin EEPROMs vice the stock 24 pin EPROMs. Therefore an adapter socket is used.

    [​IMG]

    Here is the Flash-n-Burn software. Pretty simple to load and use.

    [​IMG]

    Less than 5 min after the install and I programmed a BIN file onto the new chip.

    [​IMG]



    Still need to install the adapter into the ECM or the chip does no good!!
     
  6. russee

    russee Farmall Cub

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    Bill
    You finally broke down and got Craig Moate's setup. You won't be sorry. It is fast and simple to use. Thanks to your recommendation that is what I got from the start and am very happy with it. No problems at all.
    Eric
     
  7. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    You know the story...once you are used to using something (and it still works) it's hard to justify the change...

    But since I recommend it, i figured I better own it!!!

    Besides...it does the P4 ECM chips!!!! :D
     
  8. Dave Clifton

    Dave Clifton Farmall Cub

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    Bill,

    Got my ECM installed Saturday (inverted above the glove box, still get storage underneath for gloves) :D . Also drilled the 2.125"Ø hole for the cable harness grommet. Looking at the ALDL connector got me wondering...

    Why do I need it? Never going to "mate" to it right? Why not install a DB9 header (like in the back of a PC) flush in the dash with the transistor/resistor mod built in? Then all I would need to do is attach a standard serial cable up to it when needed.

    Am I missing something (again?)? :eek:
     
  9. StanMcMurrey

    StanMcMurrey Farmall Cub

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    I was thinking about doing the same thing, I leave my cable attached all the time anyway. Put a diag switch in while your at it. The wire is in Bill's writeup and you just ground it to put it in diag mode.

    Stan.
     
  10. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    The choice is yours but if you keep a stock ALDL configuration then the wife or friend can run it up to Autozone for a free diagnostics if you are ever gone.

    If you make your system "one off" then only you can diagnose it.

    One of the nice things about using a factory system is using Off the shelf parts and tools!!

    my .02!!

    I used to just keep the aldl plug tucked in the glove box out of view!!
     
  11. Home Built

    Home Built Farmall Cub

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    aldltobin question. I'm stupid

    I have been reading Bill's write up on working with the aldltobin and tuner pro program and can't get aldlto open anything..

    When I type in the stuff like the write up says I get this:
    aldltobin is not recognized as an internal or external command, operable program or batch file.

    What in the world am I missing??
    I suck at this kind of stuff.

    I am going into the command box and typing the following:
    c:\>aldltobin azft9503.bin blm.txt 1227747 w

    any help appreciated.
     
  12. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Re: aldltobin question. I'm stupid

    OK this is an easy one!!!!

    What needs to happen is the drive needs to be the active one where the aldlto bin program is.

    So what I do is either use a 3 1/2 disk with the program on it or a make a directory just for the aldlto bin.

    Then I copy the bin and the blm file to the same directory.
    Keep it something simple...that's why I use a floppy or a thumb drive.


    Then when you open the command window type the drive letter where you have the program..


    a:

    Then hit return and the prompt should now be a:

    If you have the files in a subdirectory then do a cd (directory)
    This will change directory to the name you type in.

    When you are in your files directory..
    Just type your string.

    aldltobin asdu.bin blm.txt 1227747 W
    (the names you type for the files have to match the exact name of your files)

    Then it will spit out your new file with a prefix of new-
    in the same directory.

    Clear as mud???? :D
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2006
  13. Home Built

    Home Built Farmall Cub

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    Re: aldltobin question. I'm stupid

    :eek: :confused: :eek:
    OK clear as MUD....... ;)
    can I use one of those memory sticks for my lap top to put the aldltobin on and run it from there?
    I dont have a floppy on my laptop or pc just a cd rom.
     
  14. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Re: aldltobin question. I'm stupid

    Yep,
    Just stuck a 64M SD in my printers card reader.
    It was removeable drive J:

    Load the files on it and ran the aldltobin!!

    Worked fine.
     
  15. Home Built

    Home Built Farmall Cub

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    Re: aldltobin question. I'm stupid

    OK, I got a jump drive and it worked.
    I drug everything into it and it worked great.
    downloaded tuner cat and opened it up in there..
    Talk about peaks and valleys.. :eek:
    What a mess.... Now I just have to learn how to work the stuff in it.
    Pretty neat program...
    Looks like I got alot more reading to do...
    But DA@# I am having fun....
     
  16. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    OK I am getting ready for my annual European vacation trip so I started to get things set.

    Here is my basic tuning set up.

    Using a newer laptop.
    A 4 port hub plugged into 1 USB port..
    Running TunerCat RT(real time tuning using a romulator)
    ALDL to monitor the sensors and log data.
    and an Innovate LM-1 wide band O2 sensor for accurate O2 logging/tuning.


    All running simultaneously.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2006
  17. Jensers

    Jensers Farmall Cub

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    Cool - Looks like you are ready!
     
  18. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    The plan is to switch to open loop and play with timing and AFR till I max it out.
    Hopefully just short of smoking a piston.
     
  19. Jensers

    Jensers Farmall Cub

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    Yeah I would think so - Middle of Europe with an IH and a burned up piston doesnt sound like the funnest thing that could happen!
     
  20. R290

    R290 High Wheeler

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    I found a cheap cable on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5836911857 .99 cents that's right .99 cents, the catch it's $7 bucks to ship it. But for $8 dollars it comes with the drivers and every thing.


    [​IMG]
    I found when using the WinALDL program on my Win XP laptop I had to set the program to run as win95. This is done by right clicking on the program and select properties, then select the compatibility tab. Screen shot below
    http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23350
    [​IMG]

    Link to USB to Virtual serial port software click here
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2008

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