Holley Sniper 2300 EFI install

Discussion in 'Injection Tech' started by Preachswanson, Apr 3, 2018.


  1. patrick r

    patrick r Binder Driver

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    I’m intrigued by the sniper. Like the looks and the simplicity. Is anyone running one with timing control?


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  2. Preachswanson

    Preachswanson Farmall Cub

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    The only problem I've heard about running the return line to the top of the tank is around it creating a sloshing effect inside of that can create issues with the fuel pump. I've not experienced it and or heard too much about it except from a Holley Tech so I cannot speak to it. If I was to do that part over again I'd buy the WIX fuel filter that accepts two inlets like a Corvett has and then put the return straight into the system that way. Lots of guys do that and it seems to work like a charm.
     
  3. Preachswanson

    Preachswanson Farmall Cub

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    Not sure of anyone who has an IH and timing control yet. I do know that those who have been able to get the Holley specific timing control units are doing well but those who have some of the off brand or home-made type are struggling some. There is a great Facebook page (SniperEFISupport) where you can see some of those conversations.
     
  4. Scoutesq

    Scoutesq Farmall Cub

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    I shouldn’t have any issue with a sloshing effect. The Holley master kit includes a fuel cuff that attaches to the return fitting and runs to the bottom of the tank so it stays submerged in fuel as opposed to dumping fuel from the top of the tank.
     
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  5. patrick r

    patrick r Binder Driver

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    Thanks. Not a deal breaker for me. It sounds as if you are getting good results without it.


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  6. Preachswanson

    Preachswanson Farmall Cub

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    Nice, that might have been added as mine was a early order and it didn't have that.
     
  7. CounterReset

    CounterReset Farmall Cub

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    I got mine running with timing control. Will post pics and details tomorrow. The installation was hellish for weird reasons.
     
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  8. CounterReset

    CounterReset Farmall Cub

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    Sorry, this weekend has been hectic. Also, it seems I have an exhaust leak that is causing the system to run rich. Got some parts on the way (also needed to get an air cleaner and some other pieces to wrap it up) and am going to add a couple of relays to ensure clean power sources. I also went with hardline for much of the fuel lines. These work great on 3/8 line. I decided to drop the tank on mine and modify the pickup for a 3/8 line to feed the pump and used the original pickup as the return line (I figured since the instructions mention it just being about 3psi on the return, having a full 3/8 line for it was likely overkill).

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I didn't really want to spend the money on fittings and the bolt on washer solution included with the kit would not fit on the pickup. So, I drilled a hole, cut some hardline, and brazed/silver-soldered it together. The barbed fitting is was $2.50 at Lowes and I had to drill it out ever so slightly to get it on (definitely better than going with the clamp on fittings that cost $10-20ea. I ended up getting K405 filter to go over the end (the Master Kit comes with a screen filter that goes before the Holley inline pump, but figured better safe than sorry).
    **NOTE: Make sure to position the new pickup end right next to the existing/stock one.

    The real hassle was this...
    [​IMG]
    At some point, a tow hitch was added and the supports were welded in around the fuel tank.
    [​IMG]
    Getting it off meant having to cut out the support. This was a real PITA. I still have to go back in and grind down the leftover chunks still attached. In my experience, previous owners are the worst people.

    Also, the plug for the coolant was seized. Broke an open end trying to get it off. The rounded it with another. Tried a pipe wrench to no avail. Eventually got it off though by welding the box end onto it.
    [​IMG]

    As for the timing control, I had a Holley distributor and did used the Mopar method. I found someone selling the Holley Coil Driver on eBay for $50 obo that I ended up getting for $35.
    [​IMG]
    You can also go with an MSD CD box, but this was cheaper and I don't really see much of a need for a box on this application. The pink goes to switch hot, the white to the white wire on the Sniper, the black to ground, and the grey to the (-) of the points. Then, use the purple and green wires to get the timing signal coming from the modified distributor. I have read that people have had issues with this in other applications. I haven't seen any yet and do not expect to. Just make sure all the wires are twisted (I twisted those leading to the magnetic pickup as well) as this helps with preventing RFI. Worst case scenario, should it be a problem, I will likely just add some shielding or use some coax wires instead (coax is cheap and highly shielded).

    I'll post some pictures of the completed install later once I've gotten it all cleaned up. If you have any questions, let me know and I'll do my best to answer them.
     
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  9. CounterReset

    CounterReset Farmall Cub

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    Some additional pics. Originally intended to run hardline from tank to the pump, but all the filters were hose based so I ended up just using the hose for that run.
    [​IMG]
    I ended up having the hardlines run along the inner fender. Not really thrilled with this route so I may change it to follow the frame rail later but am not going to touch it until the weather warms up. It is just too damn cold.[​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  10. CounterReset

    CounterReset Farmall Cub

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    One thing to add, on the Mopar distributor conversation, don't use the holes as pictured to mount the pickup. It doesn't place it directly opposite the hinge point for vacuum advance and will pull it in too far. I ended up having the reluctor strike the pickup. Had to rebuild the thing, but much happier with the second outcome.
     
  11. patrick r

    patrick r Binder Driver

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    Thanks for posting this. It’s on my long list at this point.
    2 questions.
    Why the need to keep the fuel output and return close in the tank? I would think the return should be directed away from the output and float as much as possible.
    Since you are using timing control shouldn’t the advance mech be made rigid?


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  12. CounterReset

    CounterReset Farmall Cub

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    Patrick R

    The pickup needs to be close for two reasons. First, the opening is not big, so to get the whole (now bigger) unit back in, they need to be pretty close together. The second reason is the tank baffling. If there is any baffling, keeping them close ensures fitment and functionality.

    The mechanical advance is/was locked out (now, it is removed completely). But the vacuum advance is still functional. Just be sure to note how the movement affects the gap between the reluctor and the pick-up and you'll be fine.
     

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  13. patrick r

    patrick r Binder Driver

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    Thanks! So the vac advance has to remain even with electronic control?


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  14. CounterReset

    CounterReset Farmall Cub

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    It doesn't need to be kept. I think even some stock distributor options don't have it. Mine did so I haven't really considered eliminating it.
     
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  15. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Nice hard line work CounterReset. Those are some pretty bends! Consider rubber isolators for securing the pump to the frame rail. My pump buzzed quite a bit until I installed the 1/4-20 rubber isolators. I got them off ebay.
     

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