High steer help long thread!

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Brandon A., Sep 28, 2020.


  1. Brandon A.

    Brandon A. High Wheeler

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    Hello I am trying to piece together (at the best price) high steer for a scoutII with rear spring over stock springs and front reverse shackle spring under with Rancho 2.5" lift springs. The front towers are tall so it sits level.. This was popular in the 90's. *No I won't be doing a spring over in front anytime soon. This scout mostly does trails with some street driving so it needs to be done right..... I run 35" tires with a dana 44 front axle.....

    I have searched about 6 hours and have some ideas I'd like some solid advice::
    1. IH parts america kit high steer kit: Just too much $ for this vehicle... Nice kit good reviews but: *I am not a fan of the draglink that bolts to the tierod... It just seems having both the draglink and tie rod both bolt to the passenger knuckle would be a stronger setup (like stock)..... (Feel free to share your opinion on this as I have not used their arms from partsmike)

    Current plan:
    1. Buy GM knuckles on ebay already machined made by REID: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dana-44-Chevy-Flat-Top-Knuckles-Machined-for- Crossover-Steering/254239149727?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
    A. *They don't have steering stops drilled and tapped. (so my tires don't get jammed into the leaf springs on tight turns)
    Questions:
    -Would I be able to drill and tap these knuckles for stop screws?

    -Any known issues with these knuckles? Is there a better more durable option around this price point?

    B. I was told 9/16" studs may break on High Steer kit and 5/8" would be better. Is this solid advice ? or is it overkill with 35" tires?
    Can you buy knuckles with 5/8" threads tapped? I can't seem to find what size threads are on the knuckles.....

    2. Tie Rod / Drag link issues: I am currently running the stock Tie Rod with the dip in the middle. I have a Drag link made out of DOM tubing
    with beefy Heims... It is heavy duty and would like to keep it....... So...
    Questions:
    Tie-Rod:
    A. I would like to keep Tie Rod installed in the factory location as I have never had an issue with it (plus it clears my oil pan)
    -I was hoping tie rod would bolt into the GM knuckles factory arms listed on ebay.... (Not on the High Steer arm)
    -Would this location work?
    -Are the TRE's a different size on scout dana 44 vs. GM?
    -Is this location in different spot on the GM 44 knuckles vs. scouts 44 knuckles???

    DragLink:
    A. I would like to keep the DOM Tube with HEIMs and run it from my pitman arm as its already drilled for HEIM to High steer arm.
    -*I can't tell IF my idea will work as the aluminum high steer arms at: various dealers like parts mike (are as long as the orginal
    Scout version dana 44 knuckle?

    -Will my plan for Tie Rod and Drag link work with spring under but at same lift as spring over??

    -If my plan won't work Is it possible to mount factory tie rod into the aluminum high steer arm or is it tie rod too short? I fear this would
    hit my oil pan.......

    Here is a link to the high steer arms I am thinking of using:
    -http://www.partsmike.com/index.php/products/1-dm4009-d44-dual-hole-high-steer-arm
    -https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1261/9265/products/steeringkit-D44arms1_1024x1024.jpeg?v=1568925711 this kit includes hardware
    but its 9/16" if that matters.......

    -What would you do for tie rod / drag link setup?



    THanks guys I need help picking the right parts as I need to fix this vehicle and get it 3 hours north in about a month if possible..... Pic for reference of vehicle lift.....
     

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  2. winchested

    winchested Y-Block King

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    I am running the IHPA, and Partsmike set up, but it's spring over. I have no helping ideas of whether it would work spring under?

    The parts mike tie rod/ drag link is only 1.125" which is threaded for the tie rods, rather than using 1.5" and using weld in bungs.
    I haven't bent mine yet suprisingly even using a 1 5/8" PSC ram on the tie rod. But if I went any bigger on tires I am just going to make my own with TMR customs bungs and 1.5" DOM.

    Are you having issues right now with the stock tie rod hitting the leaf springs?
    If not why not just ream the tapers for GM 1 ton rod ends and build your own tie rid and drag link? Or us IHPA or D&C HD tie rod/ drag link?
     
  3. Sammy

    Sammy Y-Block King

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    I ordered all my parts from parts mike but I used IH high steer knuckles and had the pass side drilled and tapped 9/16, which is the same as drivers side. The gm 1 ton tie rod and drag link is not the same as used on the Scout dana 44. Also reamed a TJ pitman arm for the gm ends. I measured for what I needed but my drag link is connected to the tie rod. The only thing I wished I'd done is have the tie rod bent the same as the factory had it.
     
  4. Brandon A.

    Brandon A. High Wheeler

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    Hello winchested, I went to your build first to see what you did great stuff! Nothing is hitting the leafsprings I have stock tie rod and DOM drag link with Heim joints. I used spacers on each end to level out the drag link and eliminate bump steer. (Never ever do this its dangerous!) This was just a test setup but it worked so I forgot about it as it's been on the vehicle many years and it may only get driven once per year.... Well it snapped the knuckle arm off on the passenger side so I need a stronger setup. I will not use a Z bar. I just don't feel good about it..... SO I need the high steer for the Drag link to eliminate bump steer and would like to keep tie rod down low in stock location... I need to know if that would work with the ebay knuckles using factory GM holes for tie rod and High steer on top for drag link? Any opinion on this idea or good knuckles to buy pre machined and tapped?
    Thanks!
     
  5. Brandon A.

    Brandon A. High Wheeler

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    Hello Sammy thanks for the info on the tie rod drag link ends!
    - TJ pitman arm the best option or just what you had available?

    -Is there a way to figure out the correct length pitman arm?

    -Just curious do you know if the ball joints are the same for Gm knuckles as well as scout dana 44 knuckles?

    Thanks I just keep coming up with more questions.....
     
  6. winchested

    winchested Y-Block King

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    I think all the knuckles are cast steel.
     
  7. Sammy

    Sammy Y-Block King

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    TJ arm was best for me, the factory arm was gonna have the drag link hit important things. Ball joints for the IH knuckle I used and the Scout were the same but I went with new ones, I believe the gm is the same. Do you intend to drill the high steer knuckle to accept the 8 bolt scout spindle or going to an internal hub?
     
  8. winchested

    winchested Y-Block King

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    Only thing is with the other knuckles you then need non IH ford or chevy spindles.
     
  9. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Some IH trucks had flat top knuckles,74 and 75 for sure,I think 73 also.
     
  10. Brandon A.

    Brandon A. High Wheeler

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    I will drill the knuckle to match the IH spindle. I found a write up on it and a few people who where very happy with results.....
    Only thing is they drilled factory style GM cast iron knuckles and I am leaning towards buying the steel knuckles supposed to be stronger and they are on sale. Probably will be harder to drill but I have a drill press and sharpening tool for bits......

     
  11. winchested

    winchested Y-Block King

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    Whats the price compared to the Partsmike knuckles?

    I know a guy on ebay sells dual taper high clearance steer arms.
    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Dana-44-hig...419150?hash=item3aa7afcb8e:g:CN8AAMXQ1PNRblS5

    I was thinking of getting these to get away from the Y-link.

    HOLD UP!

    I do remember asking Jeff at IHPA about running a true crossover and believe he stated there isn't enough room even with the shorter pitman arms, that is why they run the Y-Link. Could be different for stay spring under but I'd think there is more room on a SOA than Spring under.

    You however could just run a flat top High steer passenger knuckle and just run a Drag link to that top arm and keep your Tie rod in the stock location but ream the knuckles for GM 1 ton TRE's. and a 1.5" DOM tie rod?
    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/DANA-44-CHE...4cd0985441cd95ade393|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2334524
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2020
  12. WRENCH MAN

    WRENCH MAN Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    All the knuckles are cast steel, the Reid/Deadenbear knuckles have provision for a fourth stud for the high steer arms, aluminum?, NEVER seen any aluminum steering parts, factory or aftermarket??, the ball joints are the same for the Dana 30's and 44's 1/2 and 3/4 ton, pre '85 on Jeeps.
     
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  13. 72soa

    72soa High Wheeler

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    Find the Chevy flat top knuckles. I do business with an outfit in Colorado called RQM. Send the knuckles to them to have them machined, drilled and tapped. This outfit will make a drag link and a tie rod bar. There are options but I always use the stock scout II tie rod ends. You may need some spacers and longer bolts. Put all together and go. May need to drill the knuckle for the 8 bolt spindles. Another alternative is to find the 6 bolt spindles off of a scout II drum brake dana 30 or 44. You should spend about $600.00 on this set up.
     
  14. Brandon A.

    Brandon A. High Wheeler

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    Wrenchman: Do you have any complaints with Reid knuckles? That is the only option I can find online that is machined and tapped....
    made by REID:https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Dana-44-Che...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
    * I just don't like the fact they don't have steering stops drilled and tapped...... I suppose I could have that done?

     
  15. Darrel

    Darrel Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Post front suspension pictures front and side view if you have them.
     
  16. WRENCH MAN

    WRENCH MAN Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    DEDENBEAR/REID or CRANE would be the aftermarket parts of choice, they have been GOOD quality in the past.
    The knuckles in the link above have the steering stops cast into them, dual ones in fact!
    I would find OE Chevy or Jeep knuckles and have them machined before I payed for aftermarket parts?, unless you intend to run four stud high steer arms, I have three GM right hand flat top knuckles here, two of them are "milled and drilled" (posted pics of the process on here somewhere), I have a Bridgeport mill at work with a .0005" dual axis DRO on it so I get mine done for FREE!
    Jeep "CJ" spindles (I don't remember the specific years?) would work with the IH hubs and brakes and bolt onto the GM knuckles, there doesn't seem to be any issues running six bolt spindles?, only early Fords had issues because they didn't use headed studs, they screwed directly into the knuckle, they would pull the threads.

    Here's the link to the machining,
    http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/...ght-hand-flat-top-knuckle.129735/#post-941323
     
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  17. winchested

    winchested Y-Block King

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    That's a good note on the jeep spindles.
     
  18. Afireinside2285

    Afireinside2285 High Wheeler

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    I have a set of gm flat top knuckles drilled and tapped and a few other parts I would sell very reasonably. PM me if interested
     
  19. Brandon A.

    Brandon A. High Wheeler

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    I have 2 old dana 30 drum brakes axles off scout II at my parents house so I can't look at them being 3 hours away but i was told they have 6 hole spindles and would bolt on?
     
  20. Darrel

    Darrel Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    How have your external lock outs been holding up? If you have issues with the bolts backing out or lockouts breaking now would be the time to upgrade to internal hubs.

    I don't know of any arms machined for 5/8" conical washers.

    Myself I like the extra safety/strength of aftermarket knuckles. However, with only the the draglink on the hi-steer arm (as opposed to draglink and tie rod) most guys do fine with stock knuckles and a 3 hole 9/16" arm. I ran that setup myself on a full size truck with 35s for 8 years with no problem and on a Scout for 3 years. Conical washers, studs, torque wrench are a must.

    Scout tie rods ends I believe are smaller.

    You'll need a shorter pitman from IHPA or Parts Mike. Aftermarket hi-steer arms are 6 to 6.5" long (steering axis to TRE hole). SII pitman arm is 9.X". They don't work well together at all.







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