First I want to say a BIG THANKYOU to Wrenchman and those others who helped me while I rebuilt my engine!!! Here is what I found that might help others - the replacement oil pan for the AMC 258 is stamped in CHINA and I had a hell of a time getting the holes and bolts to line up. Then when I started the engine I hear this bad noise towards number six cylinder. After inspection I found that the rear pan lip is not stamped straight - figures - and the small inspection plate for the flywheel was being pushed out by the crooked lip into the fly wheel. I had to use some tin snips to cut a little bit away. Also - after break in I find that I have around 40 psi at idle - is that good? Ok here is the BIGGY!!! The douche bags who rebuilt my clutch and pressure plate apparently did not do it right. I have the TO bearing all the way against the clutch fingers and it will still not engage - grinds. In fact by bottoming out the clutch pedal the linkage rod comes forward and kicks the gas pedal arm out increasing the idle speed - took me a while to figure that one out. After inspecting the clutch through the inspection window it looks like the PP fingers do not come all the way up, but are about half way down. I believe this is the problem and I also believe that my old PP fingers were all the way up. I DO NOT WANT TO HAVE TO TEAR THIS @%&! back down and pull the tranny!!!!! Is there ANYTHING I can do to adjust the fingers while it is in? I was looking at the three knurled nuts that hold screws in place on the PP body. Do these control the finger depth? If so can I mark each nut with the PP housing and then do one complete revolution, then turn the PP and do the next? If so how many turns can I do? If so do I have to worry about too much adjustments where the clutch PP does not grip the clutch disk? Also, if this is possible do you turn them clockwise or counterclockwise? Tomorrow I plan on giving the rebuilding shop a piece of my mind?!?!?! THANKS for all the help - I will get her running again!!!!!!!!