Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Injection Tech' started by VWJake, Feb 8, 2017.
i would add a little cam lube on there while it's open.
What oil were you running? And was oil pressure psi gauge hooked up when motor went?
Rest assured Cam will be removed/cleaned/inspected/lubed. I’m also building a pre-luber to charge the oil system before start-up.
10w40 Valvoline in the SD when it let go. Oil pressure was right around 40psi at the gallery when it went. That’s about what that engine ran warm at anything much over idle. Warm idle pressure was typically around 20psi.
I would run Vavoline VR1 it has enough zinc in it. Not that the oil killed it just be safer later.
Be nice to converter it to full pressure filter setup those old canister filters are just a bypass filter not 100% filter they only get like 30% of the oil at a time.
I know the 235 I6 gm ones are easy to convert to a full pressure filter setup.
Not exactly sure what you mean by “full pressure”, but the filter assembly for the BG265 is a “full flow” unit. It filters to a larger micron level than the “bypass” style, but it does see “all” of the oil provided the filter media isn’t plugged.
For anyone that is interested in a “full flow” conversion for an early BD or SD they are out there. I picked one up on EBay a few yrs back.
Likely going to offer it up for sale after the “dust settles” from all of this tinkering.
I just meant not sure if it filters all the oil 100% of the time. My GM I6 only sees a small percent of the oil, not all iit goes to the filter at one time. That was my point, was not sure if the IH I6 actually filtered 100% of the oil. Was just checking.
Gotcha! Yeah the older stuff ( SDs and earlier BDs for the purpose of this discussion) had bypass style filters. It’s my understanding that all BGs and for that matter later BDs came with full flow filters.
'Bout all that's left to do is to button up the cooling system and install the exhaust system before the 1st fire. Managed to get the oil system primed and built 30psi of oil pressure at the gallery last night.
Hope to drive it again on Sat.
Looking good. Best of luck.
Cam break-in has happened. That was a bit stressful. I had a brand new engine that was at 23*f this morning and I wanted to start it and almost immediately go to about 2k rpms for 20 min. I pointed my 185k btu direct fire heater at the front of the truck while I reinstalled the cab floor/trans tunnel and checked out some other stuff. I felt a lot better when upon connecting the laptop to the truck I saw a coolant temp of almost 62*. Turning the key was still a little nerve wracking, but I felt much better at that temp than at 23*. Tomorrow I hope to bleed the brakes, adjust the valves, double verify the timing and idle speed. Provided those things go well I intend to at least take the truck for a drive around the neighborhood. I'm really hoping that I use the truck this coming week. I've been putting off several jobs for the lack of a truck.
Timing at a warm idle should be 10* bypass connected.
0* with bypass open.
Then turn off and set to TDC and remove the distr cap.
Reluctor should be dead center on the pickup.
I had timed the engine with a degree wheel a few days ago. I verified it with a timing light today. I adjusted the base idle to about 700rpms and then verified the timing which with the bypass wire disconnected fell between 0* and 1*. Not bad, but I adjusted it to 0* anyway. When I was reassembling the engine I set valve lash to .028. Tomorrow I will re-adjust lash to spec (.024-.026 hot) and Re-check base idle/timing. I did not put an eye on the reluctor/pick-up phasing (I'm using the same distributor that I had installed on my SD so I'm comfortable that it correct) but I will double check it tomorrow as well.
I've run the engine several times in the garage checking things over, fixing leaks, etc. I've burped the cooling sys, adjusted the valves to .025" hot, checked and re-checked the timing (0* with plug disconnected. at 0* on the flywheel the reluctor is dead center on the pick-up coil) and base idle (625ish) with IAC disconnected. I had to crank the fuel pressure from 13psi to a shade over 18psi to get the engine to idle decently and not hesitate so badly that I couldn't drive it. I did manage to take a few laps around the neighborhood last night. I often have to pedal the gas to keep the engine running when I'm coming to a stop and the truck has no umph off the line. I have to use granny low to take off without slipping the clutch. I'm hoping to have time to take a few more laps tonight with the laptop hooked up. I'm wondering what the IAC and o2 sensor are reporting when the engine is dying. I'm guess it's still extremely lean but time will tell I guess.