GM TBI on an IH SD240

Discussion in 'Injection Tech' started by VWJake, Feb 8, 2017.


  1. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    i would add a little cam lube on there while it's open.
    looks good.
     
  2. BO185

    BO185 Y-Block King

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    What oil were you running? And was oil pressure psi gauge hooked up when motor went?
     
  3. VWJake

    VWJake Farmall Cub

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    Rest assured Cam will be removed/cleaned/inspected/lubed. I’m also building a pre-luber to charge the oil system before start-up.

    10w40 Valvoline in the SD when it let go. Oil pressure was right around 40psi at the gallery when it went. That’s about what that engine ran warm at anything much over idle. Warm idle pressure was typically around 20psi.
     
  4. BO185

    BO185 Y-Block King

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    I would run Vavoline VR1 it has enough zinc in it. Not that the oil killed it just be safer later.

    Be nice to converter it to full pressure filter setup those old canister filters are just a bypass filter not 100% filter they only get like 30% of the oil at a time.
    I know the 235 I6 gm ones are easy to convert to a full pressure filter setup.
     
  5. VWJake

    VWJake Farmall Cub

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    Not exactly sure what you mean by “full pressure”, but the filter assembly for the BG265 is a “full flow” unit. It filters to a larger micron level than the “bypass” style, but it does see “all” of the oil provided the filter media isn’t plugged.

    For anyone that is interested in a “full flow” conversion for an early BD or SD they are out there. I picked one up on EBay a few yrs back.
    http://oldihc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3562&sid=8e489fb3920be607737619d6561d7c75

    Likely going to offer it up for sale after the “dust settles” from all of this tinkering.
     
  6. BO185

    BO185 Y-Block King

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    I just meant not sure if it filters all the oil 100% of the time. My GM I6 only sees a small percent of the oil, not all iit goes to the filter at one time. That was my point, was not sure if the IH I6 actually filtered 100% of the oil. Was just checking.
     
  7. VWJake

    VWJake Farmall Cub

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    Gotcha! Yeah the older stuff ( SDs and earlier BDs for the purpose of this discussion) had bypass style filters. It’s my understanding that all BGs and for that matter later BDs came with full flow filters.
     
  8. VWJake

    VWJake Farmall Cub

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    Making headway!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  9. VWJake

    VWJake Farmall Cub

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    'Bout all that's left to do is to button up the cooling system and install the exhaust system before the 1st fire. Managed to get the oil system primed and built 30psi of oil pressure at the gallery last night.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Hope to drive it again on Sat.
     
  10. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Looking good. Best of luck.
     
  11. VWJake

    VWJake Farmall Cub

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    Cam break-in has happened. That was a bit stressful. I had a brand new engine that was at 23*f this morning and I wanted to start it and almost immediately go to about 2k rpms for 20 min. I pointed my 185k btu direct fire heater at the front of the truck while I reinstalled the cab floor/trans tunnel and checked out some other stuff. I felt a lot better when upon connecting the laptop to the truck I saw a coolant temp of almost 62*. Turning the key was still a little nerve wracking, but I felt much better at that temp than at 23*. Tomorrow I hope to bleed the brakes, adjust the valves, double verify the timing and idle speed. Provided those things go well I intend to at least take the truck for a drive around the neighborhood. I'm really hoping that I use the truck this coming week. I've been putting off several jobs for the lack of a truck.
     
  12. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Timing at a warm idle should be 10* bypass connected.
    0* with bypass open.
    Then turn off and set to TDC and remove the distr cap.
    Reluctor should be dead center on the pickup.
     
  13. VWJake

    VWJake Farmall Cub

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    I had timed the engine with a degree wheel a few days ago. I verified it with a timing light today. I adjusted the base idle to about 700rpms and then verified the timing which with the bypass wire disconnected fell between 0* and 1*. Not bad, but I adjusted it to 0* anyway. When I was reassembling the engine I set valve lash to .028. Tomorrow I will re-adjust lash to spec (.024-.026 hot) and Re-check base idle/timing. I did not put an eye on the reluctor/pick-up phasing (I'm using the same distributor that I had installed on my SD so I'm comfortable that it correct) but I will double check it tomorrow as well.
     
  14. VWJake

    VWJake Farmall Cub

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    I've run the engine several times in the garage checking things over, fixing leaks, etc. I've burped the cooling sys, adjusted the valves to .025" hot, checked and re-checked the timing (0* with plug disconnected. at 0* on the flywheel the reluctor is dead center on the pick-up coil) and base idle (625ish) with IAC disconnected. I had to crank the fuel pressure from 13psi to a shade over 18psi to get the engine to idle decently and not hesitate so badly that I couldn't drive it. I did manage to take a few laps around the neighborhood last night. I often have to pedal the gas to keep the engine running when I'm coming to a stop and the truck has no umph off the line. I have to use granny low to take off without slipping the clutch. I'm hoping to have time to take a few more laps tonight with the laptop hooked up. I'm wondering what the IAC and o2 sensor are reporting when the engine is dying. I'm guess it's still extremely lean but time will tell I guess.
     
  15. VWJake

    VWJake Farmall Cub

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    After considerable time I have a truck that runs well enough to use again.

    I located a 2bbl intake manifold from a BD264 for this engine and made a new adapter out of a single piece of 3/4” aluminum. I removed the preheat diverter flap and sealed off the resulting holes to ensure there was no fresh air entering the exhaust stream to skew the o2 and WB o2 sensor readings. I bought a full compliment of gear from moates.net to log/write/burn my own chips and started over with a fresh bin. After 8 chips I now have the BLMs within 4 points of 128 globally. I’m ready to add more timing and see where it goes from there.

    For anyone on the fence about buying the equipment and writing your own chips- just do it! For about $200 you can read/write chips to your hearts content and there’s NO down time waiting for your “tuner” to write and mail you a chip. Yes, the software was intimidating at first. I just played around with it and read as much as I could on several different forums before messing with a chip for my truck. Getting the software (TunerProRT5 in my case) up and modifying a sample bin will allow you to get comfortable with how/where the changes happen. Make sure you find the latest definition files for the tuning software and ECM of your choice. Lots of data has been labeled over the years and an old def file may only have 20-30% of the ability / helpful explanations of the newest ones.

    While it’s tempting to go whole-hog and modify a bunch of settings at once and burn a chip. If you don’t understand the intimate relationships of all of the changes you made you may be setting yourself up for disappointment. Resist the urge. It takes all of about 10min to modify a bin, burn a chip and install it in the ECM. Baby steps here will pay dividends in the end. As you gain comfort with how the engine responds to adjustments you are making you can make larger changes as required. Changing just one parameter at time will give you a better understanding of how that table/setting effects the engine and can prevent you from having to “beg for help” or just being disappointed with your rig.

    As it has been said before, it is CRITICAL that you know your baseline info before you start throwing this and that at your tune. Verify the injectors that your using. Know your fuel pressure. With those two items you will set your injection BPW (base pulse width) or BPC (base pulse constant). That is the cornerstone of your tune. Without that number set properly you will likely find it very difficult to achieve success. Next up is base timing. Confirm your physical base timing and Make sure the data set in your bin file matches that value.

    Keep a notebook of the chip revisions and what changes you made. Save your bins as well. Rename the current bin and modify the new one so you always have a back-up to revert to if the changes didn’t go well. I use 2 chips and alternate chips. I keep the old chip with me when out data logging in case the new one is worse. You could take your burner with you and burn a new chip in a parking lot too if you want to make more adjustments while your out.

    There’s a ton of information here and elsewhere. Read,read,read and read some more.

    Last thing I’ll mention is that it’s better to start rich and low on timing. Creep up on a good tune rather than “shooting for the moon” out of the gate and trash something.
     
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  16. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Good to hear someone reinforcing all I stress throughout the FAQs.
    It will be interesting to see your logs and bin when done!
     
  17. VWJake

    VWJake Farmall Cub

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    I’ve never understood how people can expect anything be mediocre results if they don’t do their homework and have a good base to start from.
     

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