Gemmer 24D Steering Box Rebuild

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by tjswenson, Jun 19, 2016.


  1. tjswenson

    tjswenson Farmall Cub

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    I recently rebuilt the Gemmer 24D steering box to my 1970 V8 Scout. I thought maybe a few pictures might come in handy for anyone wishing to rebuild theirs.

    upload_2016-6-19_7-20-26.png
    The parts catalog has an exploded view of the Gemmer 24D steering gear box.




    upload_2016-6-19_7-26-10.png
    The service manual Gemmer steering box diagram is slightly different. Could this be a Gemmer 24J?
    The service manual covers, in depth, the procedures for rebuilding the steering box including setting up proper preload. For those without a service manual (shame on you,) here’s a link to a PDF file with much of the same information on rebuilding the steering box,
    ftp://38.106.177.129/gopettibone/forms/dealersold/mercury/model%20a%203fgt-2%20sn%2074911/part%202.pdf




    upload_2016-6-19_7-26-49.png
    I found this NOS repair kit by googling the repair kit part number 354 037 C91 ($66.64 +shipping) The kit contained what you see in this shot, however, instead of the two housing pin bearings (#9 in the parts catalog/ #12 in the service manual), there was one pin bearing and one brass bushing/seal which I believe is #10 in the service manual diagram. I opted to replace the lower pin bearing.




    upload_2016-6-19_7-27-49.png
    Ready for reassembly. The input shaft and worm aka Tube w/worm (see service manual diagram) is to the left oof the housing. The output shaft with roller aka Levershaft, w/roller assembly is center.




    upload_2016-6-19_7-29-48.png
    The two most challenging and time-consuming parts of an otherwise straightforward rebuild were removing the pitman arm (needed the three-ton press at my local mechanic’s shop) and removing the lower bearing cup from the housing. I wound up using the Dremel to cut most of the way through the cup followed by a cold chisel to knock out the section shown.




    upload_2016-6-19_7-30-48.png
    That stubborn bearing cup is under the bearing assembly shown. Interesting how they used a plastic retainer for the balls.




    upload_2016-6-19_7-31-49.png
    New upper bearing assembly installed.



    upload_2016-6-19_7-32-26.png
    New input shaft oil seal installed. The old, leaky seal sits on the vice jaw.




    upload_2016-6-19_7-33-4.png
    New upper bearing cup sits atop the housing cover. The old bearing cup (foreground) was still in pretty good shape.




    upload_2016-6-19_7-33-45.png
    The shims are important for setting up the proper worm preload. I checked the torque before disassembly and found it to be way below spec.




    upload_2016-6-19_7-34-27.png
    With the new bearings and cups installed and all of the original shims back in, the preload was right on the money. This pic actually shows the final “total preload” after adjusting the engagement of the roller and worm. The total preload is made by adjusting the slotted adjusting screw seen to the left of the filler hole above. It did take me a bit of trial and error to get the preload right. I found the trick was to rotate the input shaft back and forth 180 degrees while slowly adjusting the screw.



    upload_2016-6-19_7-35-13.png
    Done.
     
  2. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Great write-up!
     
  3. Dana Strong

    Dana Strong Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Although the LST for my 800B w/ 304 says Gemmer J, Code 05008, my unit says 24DC28 and looks like the one in your last picture (which is the same as the diagram in the top photo too). My MT-123 Parts Book lists this as being for both the 6-232 and V-304, while a mirror image one (which mounts on the other side of the frame) is for the 4-196 (part 351 118 C92, also a Code 05008).
     
  4. Roosters

    Roosters Farmall Cub

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    Where did you order the kit from? I'm struggling to find it.
    I need the exact kit. Rebuilding a gemmer 24dc28 off a '70 Scout 800
     
  5. tjswenson

    tjswenson Farmall Cub

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    I did a google search using the part number. (I think I mentioned that in the write-up.)
     
  6. Roosters

    Roosters Farmall Cub

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    You did. Still struggling. Just hoping you remembered the web site.
     
  7. Roosters

    Roosters Farmall Cub

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    Found it. Just under my nose.
     
  8. tjswenson

    tjswenson Farmall Cub

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    Very nice!
     
  9. gibby

    gibby Farmall Cub

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    Thanks great write up! I'm probably a ways from tearing into mine to do a rebuild, but if I wanted to service it, do you have any suggestions? As I understand it there is oil inside correct? In order to check the oil level and add/change it do you have to take the top off? My concern there is that you would mess up the preload because it looks like you have to take the nut off the slotted adjusting screw to pop the top off. Am I overthinking this?
     
  10. jeff campbell

    jeff campbell Lives in an IH Dealership

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    1 kit will usually service several different boxes. You can get a service manual from binderbooks/ IHPA. Or surf eBay and get a original 1 if you can find 1. Good luck
     
  11. Dana Strong

    Dana Strong Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    The manual says to keep the unit filled to the plug level with SAE-90 SP type lubricant meeting MIL-L-2105B specifications [SP must not contain zinc]. No interval for replacement is listed, implying it only gets new lube when being rebuilt.
     
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  12. mallen

    mallen High Wheeler

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    Is that the same as what they sell as GL1? If so its our good friend "Ford Tractor Transmission Fluid" for Tractor Supply Co.
     
  13. Dana Strong

    Dana Strong Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    No, my understanding is it's equivalent to GL-5 and is also specified for our differential lubricant (and maybe also the front ball joints?), both places where HP additives are needed. Once, I had a copy of the Mil specification, but it's long been obsolete and I can't find it anymore. I believe, but can't say for sure, that the revised -2105E would be considered equivalent. Want to read it? There's a link on this page:
    http://everyspec.com/MIL-PRF/MIL-PRF-000100-09999/MIL-PRF-2105E_5290/
     
  14. mallen

    mallen High Wheeler

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    Isnt GL5 (as well as GL4 and GL3) considered "EP"?

    Edit: I see, SP is something else entirely. EP and SP are not antonyms like one might assume. I found a reference in an old popular mechanics magazine on google.

    "My 1976 Truck requires an "S.P." type lubricant which does not contain zinc for lubrication of the front and rear axles. What does "S.P." mean? Does Pennzoil have a product meeting those qualifications?
    W.H., Montreal,Quebec
    The letters "S.P." stand for "sulfur phosphorus". The is an additive used in gear oils. Pennzoil 4095 and 4092 Gear Lubricants are S.P. type lubricants, containing no zinc which meet all of the additive and viscosity requirements for your truck's axles."

    https://books.google.com/books?id=96m36VQHlE8C&pg=PA39&lpg=PA39&dq=SAE-90+"SP"+type&source=bl&ots=nLE0pPjHj1&sig=ACfU3U0QvS2HGczbYYEsyZ7KZhVy9Dm6dg&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjli9mMgYbkAhVW_J4KHaBkB14Q6AEwDHoECAkQAQ#v=onepage&q=SAE-90 "SP" type&f=false

    I would therefore agree GL5, just like in the differentials (but NOT the transfer case and manual transmissions) would be the right stuff. That nasty smell that GL gear oil has is indicative of those sulfur phosphorous additives.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2019
  15. Dana Strong

    Dana Strong Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    I should have written "both places where EP additives are needed", to use the standard terminology. GL-4 has far less EP characteristics than -5; some early versions of -5 were said to be 'corrosive' to yellow metals, but only at higher temperatures than occurred in normal practice; later versions without that characteristic, but still with the higher pressure values, also got a designation of MT-1. My understanding is that GL-4 isn't suitable for the uses mentioned above.
    I used to have some cans of GL-5 oil bearing the Mil-L-2105B specs, IIRC.
     
  16. mallen

    mallen High Wheeler

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  17. Dana Strong

    Dana Strong Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Do we, as authors, need extra insurance due to the slippery nature of the subject and the danger it presents to other readers? :innocent:
     

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