I recently rebuilt the Gemmer 24D steering box to my 1970 V8 Scout. I thought maybe a few pictures might come in handy for anyone wishing to rebuild theirs. The parts catalog has an exploded view of the Gemmer 24D steering gear box. The service manual Gemmer steering box diagram is slightly different. Could this be a Gemmer 24J? The service manual covers, in depth, the procedures for rebuilding the steering box including setting up proper preload. For those without a service manual (shame on you,) here’s a link to a PDF file with much of the same information on rebuilding the steering box, ftp://184.108.40.206/gopettibone/forms/dealersold/mercury/model%20a%203fgt-2%20sn%2074911/part%202.pdf I found this NOS repair kit by googling the repair kit part number 354 037 C91 ($66.64 +shipping) The kit contained what you see in this shot, however, instead of the two housing pin bearings (#9 in the parts catalog/ #12 in the service manual), there was one pin bearing and one brass bushing/seal which I believe is #10 in the service manual diagram. I opted to replace the lower pin bearing. Ready for reassembly. The input shaft and worm aka Tube w/worm (see service manual diagram) is to the left oof the housing. The output shaft with roller aka Levershaft, w/roller assembly is center. The two most challenging and time-consuming parts of an otherwise straightforward rebuild were removing the pitman arm (needed the three-ton press at my local mechanic’s shop) and removing the lower bearing cup from the housing. I wound up using the Dremel to cut most of the way through the cup followed by a cold chisel to knock out the section shown. That stubborn bearing cup is under the bearing assembly shown. Interesting how they used a plastic retainer for the balls. New upper bearing assembly installed. New input shaft oil seal installed. The old, leaky seal sits on the vice jaw. New upper bearing cup sits atop the housing cover. The old bearing cup (foreground) was still in pretty good shape. The shims are important for setting up the proper worm preload. I checked the torque before disassembly and found it to be way below spec. With the new bearings and cups installed and all of the original shims back in, the preload was right on the money. This pic actually shows the final “total preload” after adjusting the engagement of the roller and worm. The total preload is made by adjusting the slotted adjusting screw seen to the left of the filler hole above. It did take me a bit of trial and error to get the preload right. I found the trick was to rotate the input shaft back and forth 180 degrees while slowly adjusting the screw. Done.