Gauge Repair on the Schizophrenic Terra

Discussion in 'Southeast Binders Association' started by Spirit_of_61, Sep 30, 2012.

  1. Spirit_of_61

    Spirit_of_61 Farmall Cub

    None of my gauges other than Speedo really work in the scout. Gas gauge works from 3/8 to past E. Volt- no, Temp-no, Oil Press- no. I would like to get the Auto Meter white set but $400 to 500 seems a lot. I have read the CVR fix and installed it back 10 years and 2 engines ago. I found a spare CVR and am willing to redo the fix. Should I get replacement (unmolested) gauges and start again?

    Do any of you gentlemen have any suggestions? I don't mind the stock gauges and I have fixed most everything else and the truck runs great.

    Plus I would like to have a bench seat in the Terra. I have found a 2011 Ford Ranger bench with console built in for $150. This seems to be the ultimate option. Do you think this would work? The width is perfect. I know I might have to fab up adapters... Fine... This would give me the capability of 2 passengers with seatbelts, a console and comfortable seats. Has anyone tried this seat with a Scout?

  2. gmbarker78

    gmbarker78 Farmall Cub

    IH gauges didn't win many, if any, awards. I'm a fan of updating to modern gauges for accuracy. There have been some really nice conversions done to SII dashes. Randy Groenhof did a nice one on Don's Traveler and Mike Moore did a similar conversion on a project. Both turned out nice. A gauge conversion and a wiring harness should solve all your issues. :oops:

    The big issue with the bench seat seems to be the angles of the floors. I also like for them to look like they should be there. I'd say mock it up and go from there. Post up your findings. :yes:
  3. Eric VanBuren

    Eric VanBuren Lives in an IH Dealership

    The Autometer gauges are accurate to about +/- 10% so they are not an upgrade in functionality, only looks.

    IH's do not have a volt meter, they have an ammeter and if it isn't working then it has been bypassed. They are nothing more than a magnet attached to the needle and a strip of brass running next to it.

    The factory gauges are easy to fix and verify their calibration. Do a search with my name and gauge calibration to find a number of threads where I've talked a person through getting their gauges working accurately again.

    If that doesn't help post back up to this thread.
  4. Spirit_of_61

    Spirit_of_61 Farmall Cub

    Gauges REPAIRED! on the Schizophrenic Terra

    Thank you, thank you, thank you. Eric. I read through your posts and read your recommendations. I removed all stamped nuts and looked at the contacts. They looked like old pennies. Dark with a tinge of green. I thought about what you said in your posts and decided that I could increase the connectivity and drop resistance if I polished the contacts.

    I gently removed the plugs and applied Brasso to the cotton polishing head on my Dremel. I polished all contacts including light sockets and outside of pin connectors to new penny brightness. placed a small dab of Noalox conductive anti-corrosive lube and replaced the nuts with 10-32 brass nuts. This should slow/stop the recorrosion of those contacts on the circuit board. (Noalox is good stuff, for this application and to stop corrosion at battery posts. It however is completly different than dielectric grease. Dielectric grease is insulating non-conductive grease.) Remember Noalox is CONDUCTIVE. Clean up any excess.

    After this work, I reconnected the battery, started the truck.... All the gauges work! I did not run the truck long last night, but the attached photos show gauges during my ride to work this morning. Some gauges need to be calibrated, but wow what a difference. This fix saved me $400 and a whole lot of time.

    I think sometimes we want to just pop and swap rather than actually FIX things. But in this case, I could not be more pleased with fix.

    Now to calibration... Any additional thoughts?

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 2, 2012
  5. Eric VanBuren

    Eric VanBuren Lives in an IH Dealership

    Glad to help.

    I've never attempted to calibrate the gauges themselves nor the CVR but I'd certainly recommend the verification of the calibration with the resistors that you'll find in those threads.
  6. Spirit_of_61

    Spirit_of_61 Farmall Cub

    Ok... I read that post on testing gauges and I do not see anything about calibrating gauges. Evidently they work or do not work. I am going to polish/chean/grease in-dash ground for the gauges near the ashtray and the wire terminals on fuel gauge.

    On oil pressure. What pressure should be middle of the gauge? What oil pressure should a SV392 (approx. 3000 mile since rebuild) be running at 60 MPH? What oil pressure at idle? I run Rotella diesel oil to eliminate lifter ticks.

    I will test temperature with 10 Ohm resistor to see if it maxes out. I may need to replace the thermostat. What temperature, what brand?

    Fuel gauge--- What resistance should max it out? Do you think it might be float issues that would cause 3/8 reading at full tank? It is a pain to drop it, but I would like to have a completely operational gauge cluster. My existing tank sender/float was replaced about 14 years ago. Should I pop and swap?
  7. Eric VanBuren

    Eric VanBuren Lives in an IH Dealership

    All of the gauges other than the ammeter are the exact same gauge except for the labels so a 10 ohm resistor should cause them to read at the mark on the right and 73 ohms should cause them to read on the mark at the left +/- 1 needle width to be within factory calibration.

    The readings on the oil pressure gauge depend on the sender used. There are or were 3 different senders, 60lbs=10 ohms 80lbs=10 ohms and 100lbs= 10 ohms. The one that is commonly available today is the 100lb version. Each of those senders will give you a different reading at the same pressure. The gauges are not a linear response so there is not a direct correlation it half way isn't exactly 30, 40, or 50 lbs but it isn't that far off either.

    The SV should run at about 45 psi by 2000 rpm and max out there.

    As far as your fuel gauge before you go and condem the sender you need to run the calibration check. Start at the bullet connector where the wire goes over the frame rail to the tank. If the 10 ohm gives you the "F" reading there then yes you have a sender problem if not test at the BHC and then the back of the gauge. The other thing you can do since the gauges are all the same is run a jumper wire to one of the other senders and see if both gauges read the same when connected to the same sender. That does not mean connect one sender to two gauges at the same time but disconnecting and swapping between the two.

    If all of the gauges read the same with a 10 ohm resistor in place of the sender but not at the H, or F marks and you've cleaned and verified all connections then there is a problem with the CVR. If 2 of the gauges read the same and the 3rd has a different reading with the 10 ohm resistor in place of the sender then that gauge is most likely out of calibration. If all 3 read differently then it is anyones guess as to whether or not it's the individual gauges or the CVR that is out of calibration.
  8. Spirit_of_61

    Spirit_of_61 Farmall Cub

    3 out of 4 Gauges Repaired on the Schizophrenic Terra

    I have been going over your past posts and reading your advice. 3 out of 4 Gauges gauges are working. I tested all of them with 10 OHM resistor. They register full scale. I think I need to change out my thermostat. The gauge shows me running hot when I cruise at 75 MPH on highway. Then when I got to Cracker Barrel, I was boiling over.

    What temperature thermostat? What brand?

    I will test the gas gauge this weekend. It is working but strangely. I hope I can fix it without pulling the tank.

    Eric, I looked up your posts on installing Ford intermittent wiper switch and installed it. It works perfectly. Thank you. Now all I need on the scout is cruise control and navigation....
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2012
  9. Spirit_of_61

    Spirit_of_61 Farmall Cub

    I followed Eric's advice Monday found the bullet connector for the tank sender, unplugged it, cleaned it, gooped it up with conductive grease, plugged it up and voila!~ the gas gauge works. (However, gas gauge dips quickly when I drive the scout a lot... why would that be....)

    At this point, I can see no reason to spend money on new gauges. This complete gauge repair cost $12 and 2 hours to complete. Thank you all for you help!

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