fixing brown coolant, what else while I'm here..

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by damonwill, May 10, 2015.


  1. damonwill

    damonwill Binder Driver

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    So I've been having a coolant leak from under my intake manifold for a while now and decided it was time to fix it. So I pulled off the intake. And the valve covers and the valley pan. I figured I might as well replace those seals while I'm at it. And so I pulled the radiator to clean it and the water pump to replace it. The pump blades were pretty corroded.

    It looks like one of the welch seals is leaking from the intake, so I'm going to replace all of those.. I'm going to clean and paint all the pulled parts. Oh, and I'll install new coolant hoses and seals for the metal pipes. So, my question is what else should I replace/reseal while I'm at it? any upgrades you'd recommend? I don't care about keeping her stock.

    Any advice on doing the welch seals? first time doing those...
     
  2. Mark Aycock

    Mark Aycock High Wheeler

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    Don't forget the heater hoses.
     
  3. mudhog

    mudhog Farmall Cub

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    I replaced all vacuum hoses and front main seal when
    I had my intake and water pump off. Front seal was leaking pretty bad.
     
  4. damonwill

    damonwill Binder Driver

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    Already got the heater hoses. and I'll have to look into how to replace the main seal... I'm also looking into using Evans waterless coolant. Have to do more research...
     
  5. wjajr

    wjajr Binder Driver

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    Rusty coolant is a result of rusty water jacket most likely caused by someone running straight water in cooling system.

    You should flush water jacket using a commercial flush which will remove some rust if engine and head are still installed in truck. Rust incrusted water jacket will impede heat transfer between metal of block and head to coolant reducing system's ability to rid excess heat via radiator.

    Once engine is as clean as one can get it, refill with 50-50 mix anti freeze water mix of which has anti corrosion and water pump lubricating properties, and correct thermostat and pressure rated radiator cap.

    My 2 cents:
    I would be reluctant to use Evens Waterless Coolant without first a good hot tank dipping of block and head to fully remove all rust scale.
     
  6. damonwill

    damonwill Binder Driver

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    Prob a negative on the hot dip. Not in the budget. but i'm going to pull all the welch and high pressure clean inside and out. I've always had a 50/50 mix and always had brown eventually. I think the evans will resolve that. but yes, I need it as clean as possible.. I wonder if I put a filter on the heater hose to pick up any residual crude that breaks free later... It would have to be a filter rated at 200F or more....
     
  7. damonwill

    damonwill Binder Driver

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    I'm in the process of removing the intake welch plugs and freeze plugs and I can upon an issue. The front passenger side freeze plug seems to be partially blocked by something...

    What is it? And how do I remove it to change out the freeze plug?? I tried turning, pulling, pushing it. No movement..
     

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  8. blue smoke

    blue smoke High Wheeler

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    That I believe is the plug for the dipstick tube. IH used the same cover for s-v engines so if an engine was going into a Loadstar it would use the front for a Scout the side
     
  9. damonwill

    damonwill Binder Driver

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    You are correct sir!! A couple taps and it popped out.

    Thanks!!
     
  10. wjajr

    wjajr Binder Driver

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    That has been done before.

    I'll check and see if I can't find how it was done.

    Look here, and here.
     
  11. damonwill

    damonwill Binder Driver

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    I'm thinking more like this:

    Coolant Filter Kit

    I can put on the heater lines. Then just keep the heater valve open to slowly filter anything in the coolant... and if it get clogged up and takes me a little while to replace the filter, no big deal since its on the heater side. the main coolant loop will be unaffected...
     
  12. Doc Stewart

    Doc Stewart Content Team Staff Member Moderator

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    Leave the thermostat out untill it is as clean as you want it.
     
  13. damonwill

    damonwill Binder Driver

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    actually, that brings me to a good question. I'm in south Texas where is rarely get cold enough to justify a thermostat. I usually remove the thermostat from all my vehicles and have never had a problem. Now, I've heard a couple posters say that the thermostat is critical to "balancing the flow of the coolant system" and "it was engineered to have a thermostat". I've run my scout for the last 6 months without a thermostat and she's always between 160 and 180 F. the electric fan turns on at 175 and off at 165. so should I just leave the thermostat out for good? I prefer to if possible...
     
  14. kevingweq

    kevingweq Y-Block King

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    The thermostat is just as important to keep the engine warm as it is cool , Engines are designed to come up to a somewhat optimal temperature 180 deg and not fluctuate too much.
    The clearances on pistons,cylinders, valve guides etc, are designed to perform correctly at the correct "warm" clearances , Too much temperature variation either way is hazardous to engine lifespan .
     
  15. Ruper22

    Ruper22 Farmall Cub

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    Hey I need one of the plugs to block off a front dipstick. Right now I'm running 2 dipsticks cause I had to fill that hole for the one in the block.
    Are any acailable and where?
    Maybe a small freeze/expansion plug would be perfect.
     
  16. Ruper22

    Ruper22 Farmall Cub

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    Pops it is a 196 four banger. 1967 date of manuf.
     

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