Working on my 76 scout II, currently in the rotisserie undergoing rust repair. Which means I can do pretty much whatever I want to gain tire clearance. I’d like to lift it as little as possible (or not at all) and run 33x10.50 on 15x8 wheels with 3.75” backspacing. I plan to run it as soft-top only, so I am not considering the weight of the top. If I need more clearance that what I have planned (so far) I’d rather do a 1” body lift than a spring lift. The truck had a shackle lift and 33x12.50 with 15x8 in the back and 15x7 in the front, so I can see where it rubbed with that combination. The front tub mounts were useless, and the rears about worn out, so it was close to a worst-case scenario. Since it was rough, I didn’t drive it more than a few miles before tearing it down. So I am going by where the PO had rubbed, not by my own driving. Planning to do all bodywork with the body off, so I’d really like to get it right now, and not have to re-do an area that rubbed later. The front rubbed against the spring while turning, but I don’t see anywhere else it rubbed when it was together (it is now apart and the tub is in the roto). For the front, at least, it appears 33x10.50 would probably fit at stock height, with maybe an adjustment to the steering stops – but – I don’t know that for sure, and if anyone has experience with where 33’s rub in the front (beside the spring on turns) that would be really helpful. From what I can gather so far, the rubbing issue is mainly in the rear. Primarily, the rear of the wheelhouses on full compression, and secondarily the front of the fender well lip when the vehicle is “up” (jacked or bouncing/jumping up.) It also appears to me that shackles make the problem worse. That is because a longer shackle allows the leaf springs to straighten more on compression, and when they do, they lengthen, thus moving the axle (and thus the tires) rearward. It also appears to me that I could lift the truck as far as I want to with springs, but if/when those spring bottom out, and the truck hits the bump stops, it is going to rub just like it had no lift at all. Maybe worse, since the axle/tires will be further back. The fender well is only 32” long, but it is also only 11 or 12 inches deep. It didn’t rub at the top, so the centerline of the axle never got closer than 17” or so from the top of the well. So the centerline of the tire, measured fore and aft – never got closer than about 5” away from the front and rear edges of the fender well. Therefore, in order to rub, the axles had to move backwards or forwards. So this is what I am planning to do, and please weigh in if you see a flaw in this logic: 1) HD Stock springs, add 1”. HD since this is an XLC (6200 GVW), get them done by either General Spring or KC Spring Works (I live in KC and both are good as far as I know.) My guess is my stock springs can be re-arched & re-built, but we’ll see. A full suspension rebuild to match, too (shocks, bushings, etc.) 2) Drop the bump stops 1” in the rear. Same travel as before, just stopped 1” further from the body. So the tire will stop 1” further away from the fender well than before. 3) Roll the rear/bottom (looking up) of the inner fender well back (as seen elsewhere on Binderplanet) and weld the front of the well forward (you can get a finger behind it now where the sheet metal overlaps on the front side but isn't welded.) 4) Move the forward section of the rear fender lip forward about ¾”. So cut about 3/4" out of the sheetmetal ahead of the fender lip and move the fender lip forward. (Remember, I’m doing rust repair in the roto, so this is easy at this stage) Before, I could just about get a finger in between the 33" tire and the fender lip. Once done, it will be about 2 fingers. 5) Move the rear section of the rear fender lip backwards about ¾”. Before, the tire lightly caught the lip of the fender well right where the fender well met the fender. 6) Leave the top of the fender lip in the same place in terms of height, but narrow and roll the lip and gain about ½” more clearance all the way around. 7) The fender lip is now about 1.0” from the fender well (in back) and about 1.5” from the inner body in front. When I get done rolling the rear back, it will be about ¾” all the way around. I *think* when I get all this done, only a very trained eye will be able to spot that it isn’t stock, as I will make the fender lips look as close to stock as possible, and it will be very close to the same tire-to-fender distance as a 31x10.50 I *could* split the fender well and make it longer - add 1" or so the middle - especially since I am replacing the bed floor along the sides. But I don't think I have to, so I don't plan to at this stage. Other than subjective choices – as I know a lot of guys just like the lifted look and wouldn’t want to move the body around to make 33’s work at more or less stock height - does anyone see flaws in that logic?