Engine Vibration

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Michael W Bass, Aug 29, 2019.


  1. jordandoc

    jordandoc Binder Driver

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    You didn't mention whether this was an auto or 4speed...here's my point. I had a similar problem with my Travelette. I put in a 392 that I had rebuilt and had in a Scout for 5 years. It always ran smoooth!!! When I installed it in the Travelette, I had a vibration that I couldn't track down. I got to thinking...what was the last thing I changed; it was the clutch and pressure plate. I remembered that I purchased a Brute Power (I do NOT recommend) clutch and pressure plate and when assembling them I noticed that the holes for the pressure plate were elongated so that it would work on an 11 or 12 inch drilled flywheel. Since I had planned to convert to 5 speed OD, I pulled the tranny and clutch assembly. I had a freshly resurfaced flywheel on my bench that I placed the pressure plate on and loosely screwed in all the bolts. You guessed it...I could move the pressure plate in all direction about 1/16 of an inch. There was no way to get it absolutely centered. I called the company and after arguing with them several times, they would not stand by there product but instead told me it was a "universal" fit!!! I ended up trashing it and sent a used pressure plate and clutch to have rebuilt. After installation, there was NO MORE VIBRATION! Moral of the story...the vibration my not be the engine at all. Contact the previous owner and ask if they replaced the clutch if the Scout is a standard shift. If so, this possibly may be the problem.
     
  2. INT77345

    INT77345 Farmall Cub

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    have you tried adjusting your idle mixture at engine idle speed? see if the vibrating gets any better or any worse ?

    does the vibrating get worse with RPM increasing.----- if so something is physically out of balance
     
  3. Michael W Bass

    Michael W Bass Farmall Cub

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    It increases up to a point and then evens out. At highway speeds I don't feel it. Most prevalent a little over idle speed. I don't have a tach, so I don't know exact RPMs.
     
  4. Michael W Bass

    Michael W Bass Farmall Cub

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    It is an automatic.
     
  5. Michael W Bass

    Michael W Bass Farmall Cub

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    Quick update for anyone following this thread. My mechanic confirmed that the balancer is pretty much shot, so I'll be replacing that. He also found some questionable exhaust work - exhaust flange on the driver side was ... not configured properly is the best way I can say it. So it broke loose. Also, the pipe was routed poorly and was rubbing the transfer case. That could have been causing some vibration as well.

    So those two things are being repaired now and we'll see how it runs after that.
     
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  6. winchested

    winchested High Wheeler

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    The balancer is a solid cast/ machined piece. How does it go bad?
     
  7. Michael W Bass

    Michael W Bass Farmall Cub

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    I'm not a mechanic, but my understanding is that they have rubber inside that can deteriorate and even slip over time which can render them useless. According to some that have commented here they can even crack. Regardless, there are plenty of re manufactured balancers to be found, so there must be some rebuilding to that can be done to them.
     
  8. jeff campbell

    jeff campbell Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Correct
     
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  9. 1975IH200

    1975IH200 High Wheeler

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    Last edited: Sep 19, 2019
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  10. winchested

    winchested High Wheeler

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    Weird all the balancer I've seen on 3 late 70s v8s all had solid one piece cast/machined balancer... [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  11. 1975IH200

    1975IH200 High Wheeler

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  12. winchested

    winchested High Wheeler

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    Why not just get better one from the later years?
     
  13. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

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    The one in your hand was whats on the late 60's,all 3 68 motors I have ,have that style,all of my 70's stuff have had the rubber style.
     
  14. winchested

    winchested High Wheeler

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    One came out of an 80 the other a 79...
     
  15. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Maybe bigger trucks/buses had the solid ones later on.
     
  16. jeff campbell

    jeff campbell Lives in an IH Dealership

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    All H.balancers should be kept with said engines and replaced with the same style.
     
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  17. winchested

    winchested High Wheeler

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    Wonder if it's because Canadian ones were never shipped as smog compliant engines with smog o
    Pumps?
     
  18. Ron A

    Ron A High Wheeler

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  19. mallen

    mallen High Wheeler

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    I bet it was to reduce vibration. The rubber design probably damps vibrations in addition to reducing vibration through balancing the engine. I doubt it has anything to do with emissions. It probably has to do with Internationals efforts in the 70s to market their vehicles against trucks that had a more car like ride. They even had commercials that said that they "rode like a car" It was a huge lie from the marketing department. But "Sounds like a school bus and rides like an old dump truck" won't sell many vehicles.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2019
  20. Greg R

    Greg R Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    The Damper Doctor is NOT doing any rebuilding. :no: I called about a month ago for some work on OEM engine mounts. The guy I talked to, possibly the owner, referenced something about the main guys or guy doing the rebuilding retired, and it is real hard to get anyone trained. I forget all the details but it seems in a nutshell anything requiring a molding process is on hiatus.

    Has anyone ever played with externally balanced engines as the SV? I have/had the exact same thing as the OP with my 266 powered 800. On the advice of MRScout; after a hard weekend at the Dunes I switched from a 10" clutch to an 11" clutch. I traded flywheels for a dual drilled one and got a bigger clutch. Overall everything was smooth except for some vibration around 1500 to 2100 RPM. It was annoying for around town driving with the constant light acceleration in intown traffic. Above 45 MPH it diminished and went away at about 2,300.

    I started adding bolts to the flywheel in the holes that were not used. Very short ones, just enough to hold 3-4 threads plus slightly longer ones and even combinations with washers. I moved them around singularly and in combo and various place around the flywheel. The effects were slight to dramatic. I got it down to one bolt making the most difference. I got the vibrations to go away!

    All well and good except on the freeway. It came back about 2,800 and slightly stronger; the amplitude increased. It was harmonics I was dealing with. Crap, I could be all week or month on this without a teardown and playing shade tree R&D.

    So out came the bolt/s and I just live with it. It's just annoying, does not damage anything; rubber mounting the rearview mirror helps stabilize the image, and I actually spend very little time in that RPM range compared to the time I am at other speeds so I just let go. But it was an education.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2019

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