Engine Tansplant questions

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Hutch, May 7, 2006.


  1. Hutch

    Hutch Farmall Cub

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    I am in the process of transplanting a running IH 304 into my scout in place of my not running 304. The donor engine was coupled with a 727 auto and I have a t-19 wide in my scout. I spent the weekend cleaning up the donor ( I never cease to be amazed at the amount of grime on these things after 25+ years) and will be pulling the flexplate and torque converter during the week. I will then be pulling the clutch and flywheel from my non-running 304 and putting it on the "new" one. I have noticed that the flywheel teeth on my engine are rather beveled (that explains the hard starts!) and am looking to replace it (is this neccessary?) I searched Napa and rock Auto and couldn't find a new flywheel. Anyone have any leads on replacement flywheels?
    I am also having trouble finding the procedure to remove the torque converter in my manual, can anyone direct me to the correct section of the manual, or is it just rotate the TC and remove the bolts that come out towards the engine? I searched on here and couldn't find this info. Thanks in advance.
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2006
  2. WRENCH MAN

    WRENCH MAN Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    You only need to replace the "ring gear" not the whole flywheel, unbolt the tourque converter from the flexplate and push it twards the trany and seperate them.
     
  3. pri

    pri High Wheeler

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    Ha! Be happy that it's not the older BW automatic.... They have about 50 bolts :eek: around the flexplate. But you only have to remove every third bolt.... You just have to find the right ones....

    You have the procedure right. Should be a piece of cake. :D

    Paul
     
  4. CareyWeber

    CareyWeber Diesel Herder / Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Hutch,

    The ring gear can be removed and flipped over and thus using the unused side of it. ;)

    Carey
     
  5. Hutch

    Hutch Farmall Cub

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    Awesome! I was wondering about that, but haven't gotten deep enough to confirm yet. That is great news. I should have some time to work on this mid week, we'll see how it goes.
    Thanks everyone.
     
  6. DavidWTravelallfan

    DavidWTravelallfan High Wheeler

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    So your saying the ring gears are not welded but bolted in place? I thought they were welded...I learn somthing new here every day.. :D
     
  7. CareyWeber

    CareyWeber Diesel Herder / Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    David,

    The are not bolted or welded on they interference fit. To install them you heat the ring gear and then press it on to the flywheel.

    Carey
     
  8. WRENCH MAN

    WRENCH MAN Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    If you have to press it on you're not geting it HOT enough, they fall on and have room to spare! ;)
     
  9. joshua m

    joshua m Farmall Cub

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    thats right! place the ring gear on the flywheel like you want it and then heat it with a torch and it will fall( yes fall) into place around the flywheel. if you are going to flip it make sure that the teeth are not cut to make starter engagment easier and if they are just rotate the ring gear. you will see that only a couple of areas are worn down and others just fine. if so mark the flywheel and ring gear with a sharpie and then knock off the ring gear and then rotate it so a fresh area is on the flywheel mark and then install the ring as mentioned. :p
     
  10. Hutch

    Hutch Farmall Cub

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    Wow,
    I am glad you guys brought up the heating of the ring gear! That could have driven me nuts very quickly. Any other tricks out there? I have been working late all week and haven't had a chance to dig into it yet.
     
  11. jeff campbell

    jeff campbell Lives in an IH Dealership

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    just suspend it off the floor,w/a few blocks,1 on ea.,side,just under the edge of the teeth.heat real good all the way around,it'll drop OFF!then flip fwheel an lay it back on r-gear heat again an it'll fall in!jeff
     
  12. Doc Stewart

    Doc Stewart Content Team Staff Member Moderator

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    If you use your original starter from the automaitc, be sure to remove the starter spacer. The standard transmission flywheel does not require the spacer.
     
  13. willy

    willy Binder Driver

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    Ryan,
    Good thing I left the torch at your place, I had a feeling you would find a use for it as you proceed. You may want to put one of the tips on rather than that cutter. Or you could buy me a rosebud :D

    Willy
     
  14. CareyWeber

    CareyWeber Diesel Herder / Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Even pushing down with your hands is pressing. :p

    You are correct, but I didn't mean with a press. ;)

    Carey
     
  15. Hutch

    Hutch Farmall Cub

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    got started...

    Well, I spent some time yesterday evening pulling the Torque converter and flexplate off the *new* engine and I will be working on getting the clutch and fly wheel off the old one tonight. Everything went smoothly pulling all the automatic stuff off, the hardest part was getting the roll pin out, and even that was pretty simple. Here are a few before and after pics just to add a bit of tech.
     

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  16. Hutch

    Hutch Farmall Cub

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    Here are some pics of the clutch. Note the rather shiny "fingers" Is that a sign of wear that I should be worried about? I will eventually be heating the ring gear to flip it as the wear is consistant all the way around. In the shop manual, it states that the clutch clips should be in place or wood blocks, prior to removal, any opinions on one or the other or both?
     

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  17. Hutch

    Hutch Farmall Cub

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    Okay, so the engine is in the scout, mostly wired. Iam having trouble getting the Intake manifold bolt by #6 off. The one near the choke (I think? - Silver thing with rod out the top?). I need to get the intake off to put the one in Pic #1 on. Not real aluminum, but looks nice.
    I also put in a remote solenoid and found I had different wires than the write ups I read. Take a look and tell me what you think. Scout has Gold box. The first pic is with the white wire from the starter to the "S" terminal of the Remote solenoid. The second Pic this white wire is connected to the "I" Terminal of the Remote, based on me thinking my old engine might have had a points distributor once. Any thoughts? I couldn't find mention of a white wire in the write ups.
    Thanks
     

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  18. jeff campbell

    jeff campbell Lives in an IH Dealership

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    get a 6 point swivel socket an a 3" extension,that shud get that bolt off.jeff
     
  19. Hutch

    Hutch Farmall Cub

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    The problem seems to be the clearance (or lack thereof) between the bolt head and the intake manifold casting. I can barely get a six point socket onto the bolt, as the socket itself appears too thick. I didn't have this problem on the other intake :confused: .
    I'll keep trying, it's got to come off eventually.
     
  20. Hutch

    Hutch Farmall Cub

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    I'm still trying to get my engine running after swapping in a "new" 304.
    I should have paid better attention in the begining and labeled all the wires :(
    I have installed a Pertronix (part # HO-181) and a remote starter solenoid (RSS), and am having trouble figureing out which wire comes from the ignition. My wire colors do not match up to what others have posted for the set up of the RSS, which isn't making things any easier! I believe, looking at the engine wiring diagram (see CTS-2654 page 5) wire 17-14 which went from the starter to the "s" terminal to the bulkhead connector at DD should go to the "s" terminal on the remote starter solenoid, but I am not positive on this. Does anyone know which wire from the bulkhead connector is the 12v ignition wire?
    Is the blue heavy gauge wire the ammeter wire? I am assuming so right now, but would not be suprised if I am wrong.
    Also, when I remove the gold box, there is a single male plug (95A-16) that went from the center female plg on the gold box to the "Decel throttle modulator sw" (per CTS-2718 Page 24 ignition system wiring in the shop manual) what happens to this now that the gold box is gone?
    If someone could post some pics of a RSS with the pertonix, and a description of where 12v ignition wire comes from, that would be swell. I have searched many of the existing RSS threads, but remain confused. Thanks aagain for all the help.
     

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