Engine help

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Hutch, Jul 10, 2007.


  1. Hutch

    Hutch Farmall Cub

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    I'm having some engine trouble and have a few leads but was hoping others might have some ideas to help narrow it down.

    Symptoms:
    Runs rich (when running) - tried to tune it the other day using a vacuum gage and adjusting air idle. Got it a bit better. Still ran a little rich and my buddy (who happens to be a mechanic for what that's worth) thinks I need a carb rebuild as one if the air idle screws seemed to bottom out.

    Then yesterday, I went to take it for a spin, and it would stall out as soon as I gave it any gas.
    bump started it into the garage and parked it. Got it fired up tonight and adjusted the idle mix and now it seems better (runs at least)

    Timing is set at about 7-8º BTDC, closer to 0º and it runs real rich.

    Not sure if it is related, but I have also been having battery charging problems, so I pulled the alt. tonight and will be getting it tested tomorrow.

    Any ideas on other things to consider? I'll be ordering a carb rebuild kit when I get the alt checked.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Doc Stewart

    Doc Stewart Content Team Staff Member Moderator

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    "runs rich" Loads up and smells gas in the exhaust? = Carb

    Timing does not make an engine run rich or lean.

    Before you remove and repair your carb, check for vacuum leaks with your propane torch [Don't light it!!!] Bad vacuum leaks will give you all kinds of operation woes.

    Put a kit in the carb. Clean it carefully while it's apart. If you have never done it before, it is interesting but not imposible. Follow the directions that come with the kit. Get all the numbers off the airhorn to get the right kit.
     
  3. Jim Harkins

    Jim Harkins Farmall Cub

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    How do you check with a propane torch ,(not lit) and what will i be looking for ?
     
  4. DAGATOR16

    DAGATOR16 Binder Driver

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    I assume you have points dizzy.

    Here are some tips that helped me with my 304.
    1. Set points gap to .019 (this helped with my hesitation)

    2. Check the auto advance on the dizzy by sucking the hose and watch for movement inside the dizzy. Make sure it holds a vacuum. If not..Replace it.

    3. Plug off the auto advance hose with a golf tee (or screw) and then set timing to closer to 15* BTDC maybe more?. I personally have mine set at 20* BTDC. You don't want it to "ping" but these older engines can use more advance. Don't forget to reconnect the auto advance hose.

    4. Retest the vacuum on the carb and adjust idle mixtures.

    Clay
     
  5. Hutch

    Hutch Farmall Cub

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    Thanks Doc,
    it is the loads up and smells like gas in the exhaust. That's a good confirmation. Thanks.
    More info on the propane torch technique please. I'm guessing turn on the propane (don't light) and move it around any gasket surfaces and vacuum hoses. If the engine revs it's indicates a leak at that spot?

    I'll order a rebuild kit today.
     
  6. rlireland

    rlireland Content Team Staff Member Moderator

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    Spray carb cleaner works just as well and you get a side benefit of cleaning some of your engine in the process!

    Roy
     

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  7. jeepdaddy2000

    jeepdaddy2000 Farmall Cub

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    An excessively rich mixture at idle (whis is apparent due to the bottoming of the idle mixture screws) is usually caused by two things.
    1) Float height. This can be caused by excessive fuel pressure, bad needle and seat, incorrect float level, or a sinking float. Most Holley's (you didn't tell us what carb you are using)use a sight hole on the side of the bowl to check this. Other carbs usually require the removal of the lid.
    2) Bad power valve. Many carbs use a vacuum diaphragm to enrich the power circuit. If this diaphragm leaks, it will allow raw fuel to enter the manifold below the carb plates. This will cause an excessively rich mix that can't be remedied by the idle mixture screws. This is a very common problem with Holley's and Motorcraft carbs. If you remove the cover on the MC carb and it has fuel in it, then the valve is bad. The Holley uses one screwed into the metering block. If you remove the block and find the area behind the power valve wet, then it is bad. Your rebuild kit will have a new one.
     
  8. Hutch

    Hutch Farmall Cub

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    Thanks All.
    Carb is a 2210, forgot to mention that. I'll be checking for vacuum leaks tonight and will check for power valve failure and float level as well. Thanks for the help. Hopefully I am narrowing down the possible problems!
     
  9. Hutch

    Hutch Farmall Cub

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    Alrighty,
    I'm in the middle of rebuilding my carb and am having trouble finding definitive accelerator pump adjustment specs.
    The FAQ states:

    Accelerator pump slot 2
    Dry float level .180"
    Fast idle cam index .089"
    Dechoke (choke unloader) .200"
    Bowl vent N/A
    Vacuum kick .125"

    My linkage was originally in the first of 3 slots (rebuild kit indicates 4 slots) If I place the linkage in slot 2 I get zero movement of the accelerator pump so I set it up as it was. Now I am wondering what the movement should be. Rebuild kit says measure with fully closed throttle, and with WOT and the difference should be your travel, which the kit says should be 45/64". I also looked through the FAQ and my manual, but couldn't find a travel spec.

    The crux I am encountering is that 45/64" seems darn near impossible to achieve (over 1/2" of travel :eek: )

    Anyone know what it should be?

    Thanks!
     
  10. Mark B 70SR2

    Mark B 70SR2 High Wheeler

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    mine was doing the same thing two weeks ago. replaced the power valve in 10 min and it runs like a champ. $10 at advanced auto parts. can probably find a little cheaper if you have time to shop
     
  11. Hutch

    Hutch Farmall Cub

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    Thanks Mark.
    I think my power valve is okay, though I did clean it real well and did the epoxy sealing trick in the FAQ. Do you know what you accelerator pump travel is?
     
  12. Hutch

    Hutch Farmall Cub

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    Finished the carb rebuild and the truck runs much better not as rich (still need to tune a bit) no hesitation when I step on the gas and a better idle.

    Now if I can just figure out why the new alternator isn't charging :confused:
     

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