drag link question

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by 76-scout-MATT, Oct 18, 2015.


  1. 76-scout-MATT

    76-scout-MATT High Wheeler

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    so I got a drag link .... ad said adjustable from 40 inches to 44 inches .... holding a tape up to stock drag link it looks like just a hair over 41 inches .... so an adjustable from 41 to 44 should be great ....

    now 2 things could have happened ..... I have no idea how to measure a drag link .... or the seller had the same problem

    here are the pics and where I started my measurement from ( middle of the post) and ending at the same spot other end on the new drag link

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    was hoping a lot more thread would be inside the tube ....... at this measurement I only have a bout 5/8 of an inch of threads going in to the tubes

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    now this seems like it would be a weak link in the setup.... am I wrong ... is that enough threads ... about 5 or 6 full turns once started each end ..... did I measure wrong ???? can I turn the wheel a bit to the right and gain some extra room ???? .. is there a downside to this idea??? also it appears that both are right hand threads at each end .... so no real adjustment once I mount it .... turning the bar only slides it further on one end and further off the other end at the same time ..... thought it would be like a turnbuckle ... turn it one way and it gets shorter and turn the other way and it gets longer .... is that right??? ...... did I just drop 125 bucks on a learning experience ....... any help is appreciated ... thanks ...Matt
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2015
  2. Scootr

    Scootr Farmall Cub

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    For me, that wouldn't be enough threads inside the tube. But it would work for light duty stuff like around town, possibly. It also appears that the new link is made up of two pieces. My concern is why and what thickness is the tube.
    I actually started making my own drag links and tie rods. Material I use is DOM 1-1/4 with .250 wall thickness. The ream out the ID and tap for the 7/8 one ton chebby rod ends. I also thread the tube with left and right pitched taps. That way, one gets that turn buckle effect.
     
  3. Darrel

    Darrel Y-Block King

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    Matt, I'd say your instincts are correct. The link is too short and it just looks shoddy.
    Drilled and tapped for left and right hand threads is my preference also. Lots of vendors can make them.
     
  4. 76-scout-MATT

    76-scout-MATT High Wheeler

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    quite beefy and solid .... just too short .... damn ... try to save some hard earned cash ..... lesson learned ....
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2015
  5. Dennis Bernth

    Dennis Bernth Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    I wouldn't take the hit on that, complain to the seller and get your money back. He advertised a range of 40 to 44 inches, and there is no way that would come close to 44 inches. Then pick one up from one of the vendors who know how to build them right....
     
  6. 76-scout-MATT

    76-scout-MATT High Wheeler

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    he also stated it had been made shorter for a high steer project and it would work for that or for stock replacement...... was replacing a stock bar ...and not knowing about such things I did rely heavily on the measurement range given in the ad .... it is always a crap shoot when buying used ... and without searching and waiting for certain deals the truck would still be in pieces ..... heavy duty drag link is back on the to do list and will come in time ..... and now I know more about what I want ..... headed to coonrods soon to do some horse trading ...maybe it will have some bartering power with him ..it will get added to the pile .... and to end on a good note ... after coonrods I am shooting over to D&C to pick up my new rear bumper .... (7 weeks of squeezing in side jobs to get that one) ... quite excited about that ..and the only reason I am not as upset about the drag link as I probably could/should be
     
  7. 76-scout-MATT

    76-scout-MATT High Wheeler

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    David ... I don't know the answer to that .... sounds like yours is shorter than stock .... I remember an old thread of yours about drag link question and the whole center to center thing for the pitman arm ..... and right now my steering wheel is off a bit .... if I straighten the wheel (turning to the right) I am thinking that would move pitman arm over enough towards passenger side to maybe give me less length for drag link ... might get and inch or more of threads in the bar then at each end .... but the I thought I read somewhere that the steering box like a certain center spot and will go to that spot .... if I go too far then the truck will always pull to one side (to the left I think ) trying to find that center .. and then would it turn faster one way than the other .. sounds like tire wear and stress on components that should not be there ..... I just don't know .. I think I want everything perfect then I will pull and set my wheel .. Matt
     
  8. David Banner

    David Banner High Wheeler

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    Ouch. The drag link is not workable for the range the seller gave you. Based on that, I'd ask for a return/refund.
    The rt hand threads at both ends are not ideal but still workable.

    Two ways to make this (safely) usable: Find an extended length TRE
    http://www.partsmike.com/index.php?crn=240&rn=1109&action=show_detail
    These guyz should be able to help you out with that.
    Or: Get some grade 8 (or 10) threaded rod and a female TRE and make your own extended length TRE.

    I just measured my stock drag link; it's 41" center to center.
    I just measured my DOM adjustable draglink and it's at 40.5" with a 4" lift?! (maybe I didn't set mine up right?!)
    About how much longer should the link be when lifting to 4" ? Math says it should be longer than 41"...
     
  9. 76-scout-MATT

    76-scout-MATT High Wheeler

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    huh that is weird .... how did your comment move under mine ?? those might work but now I am spending money to fix something... doesn't sound like I learned my lesson at all if I do that
     
  10. David Banner

    David Banner High Wheeler

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    What I do know (enuf to be dangerous...). The steering gear box has a center point for straight ahead where the ball & worm clearance is tightest. You then adjust your bearing preloads from that point.
    With too short a draglink you won't have an equal amount of turning radius in the steering--you'll have more turns of the steering wheel to the right or left--they should be an equal # of turns of the steering wheel.
    In my case even with the shorter draglink I've got an equal # of turns rt & lt.

    So it's not that your truck would pull to one side, it's that you wouldn't have the full range of the steering gear.
     
  11. David Banner

    David Banner High Wheeler

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    Having seen your 'new' draglink yesterday--the welds looked good--I'm thinking for another $30 you can make it work...

    I still think you should first contact the seller and give him a chance to make things right--but if that doesn't work out...
    Just make sure there's an inch or more of overlap where the two different pieces of pipe come together...
     
  12. BigRigg

    BigRigg Y-Block King

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    Matt i just saw this, started a conversation.
     
  13. 76-scout-MATT

    76-scout-MATT High Wheeler

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    Always aim at complete harmony of thought and word and deed. Always aim at purifying your thoughts and everything will be well.”
    ― Mahatma Gandhi

    thanks guys ... all is well
     
  14. David Banner

    David Banner High Wheeler

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    Funny that sounds very similar to what my DI's told me during BRM... :whistling:

    Glad it's working out--details would be nice....
     
  15. 76-scout-MATT

    76-scout-MATT High Wheeler

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    seller contacted me and is allowing me to return for refund ... quite happy about that
     
  16. David Banner

    David Banner High Wheeler

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