Door adjustment

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by TapRackFire, May 19, 2019.


  1. TapRackFire

    TapRackFire Farmall Cub

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    Hello to all!
    I'm working on a 72 Scout II. I started with the body bushings and replaced all of them except the ones at the cab mounts. The metal beneath the floor had rusted away and the floor was sitting on metal body mounts. I soon discovered the rocker panels were gone as well and needed to be removed and replaced. After reading several articles on this site i used some square tubing and welded it in the opening of the passenger side before i cut out the rocker panels. My dog legs were good so i did not have to remove them.

    I used some 3" square tubing to create my new rocker panels. I fitted (not welded yet, only held by c-clamps) the new rocker in place but i could not close the passenger door to check my door fitment without removing the square tubing i had welded in the opening of the door. Before i started this process the door closed ok. Well, once i removed the tubing in the door opening and i tried to close the door the opening was too wide. I'm not sure what stretched or flexed. Either the hing side of the opening moved forward or the jam side of the opening moved to the rear by .75".

    Has anyone seen this before or tell me what i need to do to shrink the door opening by .75" so the door can at least latch. I've tried using bottle jacks to lift each end of the rocker. i can lift the hing side of the rocker and at least raise it high enough so the top of the door lines up with the top of tub, but the door is still too wide and i can't seem to shrink it.
     
  2. Darrel

    Darrel Y-Block King

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    You need to figure out exactly what is wrong before you proceed.
    3/4 inch is shocking. Top or bottom or all the way up?
    Was the door not aligned properly right before you welded in the brace or did you use a simple cross bar, not triangulated, and now it's a parallelogram?
    Have the cab mounts been replaced?
    Can you post pictures of all this?
     
  3. TapRackFire

    TapRackFire Farmall Cub

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    -the opening is too long left to right (horizontally) by .75"
    -the door was just ok before i started the rocker removal. i could close the door and the striker and the latch would catch. now when i close the door the latch on the door face is almost passing the face of the striker.
    -i've replaced all of the body mounts except the two cab mounts because they were rusted away. i have not replaced the cab mount on the passenger side (the side i'm working on) because i thought i needed to get the door adjusted to at least close before i weld the cab mount wedges to the back of my rocker panels. i have not welded the new rocker in yet either. i thought i needed to leave the body un-welded from the rocker panel until i have the door somewhat operable in the opening. if the rocker is welded to the body i thought i could not use any bottle jacks to lift the front or back of the opening for better door adjustment.

    thanks for questions they might help me resolve this.

    I'll load some pics today
     
  4. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly Binder Driver

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    did you x-brace everything before you cut out the old rockers?...if not theres no telling what moved to where..
     
  5. TapRackFire

    TapRackFire Farmall Cub

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    yes sir i braced it up before i cut out the old rockers. however, i removed the bracing while fitting the new rocker into place because i could not close the door with the bracing in the opening of the door. I think i have over estimated my .75" estimate of how much the opening moved horizontally. As i look at it again, if i could move the door toward the rear of the vehicle by a minimum of .25" i think the door would be able to latch and could then weld my rocker into place and then weld the cab wedges to the back of the rocker so the cab corner corner would be supported to the frame mount.

    i've tried several times to load pics of the door and how the gap i need to close, but i keep getting an error. But if somebody could tell me how to move the door to the rear i think i can close the gap and weld up the rocker.

    Thanks for any help
     
  6. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Take picture,down load to your computer,then there is an UPLOAD A FILE below the box you are typing in,click on it and find the picture.
     
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  7. Greg Cejka

    Greg Cejka Farmall Cub

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    if the gap is consistent then you messed something up welding in the rocker and will need to cut it out and re weld. if its a larger gap at the top then the bottom or vice versa then play around with different thickens shims on your body mounts. When I rebuilt my floors I didnt relize there was a 1 inch piece that was supposed to be at the front cab mount so the body was low in the middle. I put a hock puck in at the front cab mount to make up that difference and it worked perfectly on the PS the driver side I had to make a couple of spacers out of 1/4 umhw to get it lined up.
     
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  8. TapRackFire

    TapRackFire Farmall Cub

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    Thanks Jeff. I did exactly what you described and I got the error message from the Binder website.
    Can somebody advise on how to adjust the door from left to right? or point me to a link where somebody else has already documented it? I think i can correct this but only if the door can move horizontally left and right in reference to the opening.
     
  9. TapRackFire

    TapRackFire Farmall Cub

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    ok!!!! i finally got some pictures uploaded. in the first pic you can see the passenger door is level with the body and i have the cab corner jacked up using a bottle jack and the truck is sitting on the floor. The gap is fairly uniform up and down. in the second pic you can see when the cab corner is lifted with the door straight, how far off the striker is from the latch. the third pic shows the door sagging when i don't have the cab corner lifted with a bottle jack.

    I have NOT welded the rocker in place yet. i wanted to get the cab and door oriented close enough before welding the rocker in place. after i get the rocker welded in i can then weld the cab wedge into place and set the body bushings in place. I think if the door has adjustment to move toward the rear of the truck by .25" or little more i can weld the rocker in place and get moving forward. i just need to know how to adjust the door so the striker and latch can connect correctly.

    IMG_0054.JPG IMG_0058.JPG IMG_0060.JPG
     
  10. vince konicki

    vince konicki Farmall Cub

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    How is your gap between door and fender? Seems that with the body mounts out of wack your going to have a rough time
    getting it lined back up.Your almost going to have to level the chassis then keep working the body level
     
  11. tahoedonner

    tahoedonner Binder Driver

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    Underneath the door panel there are 6 bolts, 3 per hinge, that allow the door to move front to back. I assumed that you’ve already tried that but didn’t read anywhere that you had.
     
  12. tahoedonner

    tahoedonner Binder Driver

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    Also have you compared drivers door opening to passenger opening? How different are they?
     
  13. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

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    ratchet strap between center body mount and somewhere down low by fire wall and pull it back.I dont have ,but someone should have measurement of door opening.
     
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  14. vince konicki

    vince konicki Farmall Cub

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    46 inches from face of door striker post near latch to face of hinge post just below upper hinge
     
  15. TapRackFire

    TapRackFire Farmall Cub

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    Thanks for all the questions and answers. Tahoe, i was unaware of that adjustment in the door. I will try it after i check the door opening to ensure it is about 46" as Vince indicated. if the door opening is beyond the 46" mark i'll follow Jeff's idea on using the ratchet strap to pull the opening with in specs and start welding.

    currently i have zero gap on the other side of this (PS) door, but the door opens and closes without binding on the fender. The driver's door has zero gap between the fender and the door. the gap between the driver's door and the quarter panel is ok just not as wide as the passenger side that i'm currently working on. The driverside still has the rotted rocker panel attached.

    Thanks for the suggestions. i'll keep you updated

    Tap
     
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  16. tahoedonner

    tahoedonner Binder Driver

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    Based on the fact that you have zero gap on the other, front side, I’d say the door hinge adjustment should work. Especially if your gaps top to bottom look even.
     
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  17. Kohler

    Kohler Farmall Cub

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    I took door measurements before I got too far into my work. One opening was 46" even, the other just under 46-1/8. Here are a couple pics showing exactly where I measured from. If your openings are handy and square it should be in the adjustment noted above. I'm new at this, but I found the easiest way to get that adjustment right was to loosen all 6 bolts, close the door, get your gaps looking right, and tighten the bolts from the inside.
    IMG_5187.jpg
    IMG_5188.jpg
    IMG_5214.jpg
    IMG_5215.jpg
     
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  18. TapRackFire

    TapRackFire Farmall Cub

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    Thanks for the pics Kohler. I'll checked that and I was about 46.25. I'll get the truck lowered on the lift tonight and take a more accurate measurement.
    I may use the ratchet strap idea to see if I can draw the cab back to where it was b4 i removed my bracing.
     
  19. TapRackFire

    TapRackFire Farmall Cub

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    I took a measurement of my opening and found it to be 46.25" wide. I tried to use a ratchet strap to pull the front toward the rear and i was able to move the front dog leg .25" closer, but the amount of force i had to get this .25" caused the inner fender of the engine compartment to begin to buckle due to the amount of force i was using with the ratchet strap. i tried to pulling the back of the truck in the same manner but i could not get the rear dog leg to move inward at all.
     
  20. Jrc55

    Jrc55 Farmall Cub

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    As a general rule, I'd turn that tape measure around! put the end flat against the rear door jamb and the smart end at the hinge opening lip. That's a straighter line of sight. See if that is more accurate.
    I think its time to take some diagonal measurements to see what went out of square. I had DAYS in door alignment...it was terrible!!!

    Where the bed steps up, if you mark the center of that, that should be about 29.75" (half of the width between bed sides of 59 1/2 inches). Then from there, take some random measurements to see what moved, leaned in, etc. roll up the window and look for clues. I would not move the door further back if it aligned initially! You'll just be masking the problem instead of finding the cause. Ratchet straps are what I used also. 5 of them at once at times! IMG_20181117_132722740.jpg
     
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