Daughter/Father Build ’69 800A

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by jmait769, Feb 21, 2014.


  1. guidolyons

    guidolyons High Wheeler

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    I used F250 shock mounts front and rear. Since I removed the crossmember to mount my center tank, I moved the shock outboard of the frame. I extened the F250 mount about 4", I have some pretty long Rancho shocks mounted. Not sure if you have room with the coils and my axle is wider (14B). It bolts to a pice of 3" channel to clear the bed and removeable so I can still pull the side tanks.

    Not the best pic, but you can see it a little bit.
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  2. zzzchopsss

    zzzchopsss Farmall Cub

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    I love all the goodies for this one :].
     
  3. FSM09

    FSM09 Binder Driver

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    Great job Jay! You guys are making some awesome progress.
     
  4. cudakota

    cudakota Farmall Cub

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    I'm so jealous. Any chance you could adopt me? I'm housebroken and I play well with others.:D
     
  5. jmait769

    jmait769 High Wheeler

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    Thanks for the pic guidolyons – that’s perfect! Nice work and I like the sway bar system too!! I put on the 33’s we have today and jacked it up on one side and it looks like we will have plenty of clearance for a fender mount. This was as far as I dared go with everything just being tacked in.

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    Not a great pic either but the shock will have to tilt towards the rear slightly but will fit nicely.

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    Thanks! It’s the Scout I wished I could have built for my first one! No money, skills or patience then!!
    Thanks FSM09!! Hope your recovery is going well!!! :yes:
    Thanks cudakota! I don’t know? With the heat wave we are having here I might like to have you put me up in Long Beach!! :) Cool breezes blowing off of the Pacific ocean - that sounds so nice!!!

    We went back today and re-measured, one more time, everything including the front caster angle before I put in some larger tacks/weld in the C’s. I took some pics of that which I had forgotten in my earlier post.

    First I found the center of the Scout off of the front cross member, center at the angle we installed in the frame and then the rear diff. Used a plumb bob and marked each location on the floor, measured from the center line, on each axle.

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    Then just measured those points across to insure everything is square to each other. Helps to have the measurements flat on the floor.

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    Some random pics as we pushed it back to clean up a little.

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    Jay
     
  6. alabamascout1969

    alabamascout1969 Farmall Cub

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    Jay: I have read the entire post about you and your daughter. How wonderful that shes so involved, love the pic with her nails! I too am female and would have loved to build my scout with my father. Anyways...I do have some general questions about rebuild of my 1969 scout. If its ok and you have time, I would like to PM you about it. Im new to the post, but would love to start a new thread on my build. But not sure how to do that on the website yet, I have been fishing around trying to find a place to post a new thread. I took auto mechanics and know probably enough to talk about it a little. Cant wait to hear more about the build! Alexandria Martin, Birmingham Alabama (alabamascout1969):4x4:
     
  7. scout2000

    scout2000 Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Hello Alexandria,

    Welcome aboard.

    Please start a build thread, and post some pictures of your Scout.


     
  8. alabamascout1969

    alabamascout1969 Farmall Cub

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    Jerry: Thanks for the welcome. I will definately take some pictures tonight, I am still navigating the website in the meantime trying to figure out how to start that thread.
     
  9. guidolyons

    guidolyons High Wheeler

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    Alexandria, welcome. Would love to see your Scout build thread, click on the "New Thread" tab at the top of the forum section that you want to start.

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  10. jmait769

    jmait769 High Wheeler

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    Hi Alexandria and welcome to BP! :yes: Thanks so much for posting and looking at our build! I know I’m very lucky and I’m glad we can share our adventure. She gets a chuckle out of the inadvertent nail pic too. She now wears gloves - always! :) Yes please PM me. I’m more than happy to help out and we are lucky that BP has so many members here willing to share, as you will see when you post your build.

    To start a new thread click here on the: “Binder Build” page, then scroll to the bottom of the page, just below the last post, and on the left side is a box: “New Thread” . Click that and you will get a page similar to the one you used to post in my thread. The only real difference is you get to add a title and name your build thread!

    That looks like a very nice Scout in your avatar and we look forward to your build thread. Also, there are member clubs around the country and I think the closest one to you is the Southeast Binders Association. You can see all of different groups here: Member-club Forums

    HTH

    Jay
     
  11. guidolyons

    guidolyons High Wheeler

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    Jay-
    Yeah the F250 shock mounts are cheap (~$15 from dealership) you can chop/cut/grind to make some slick shock mounts.

    I'm running Currie Anti-Rock sway bars front and rear. They Rock! (pun intended) :D The are expensive, (~$379 ea IIRC) but worth every penny IMHO. I had some pretty scary body roll/sway and was going to try and junkyard scrounge a sway bar, but these saved me a ton of grief and fab time. Now my Scout rides nice and smooth!
     
  12. Comanche Scott

    Comanche Scott High Wheeler

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    Hey Jay,

    Just caught up on your build. It's looking awesome. Integrating the rear diff cover into the upper support is a fantastic way to spread the load.
    As always your work is premo! :rockon:

    Scott
     
  13. jmait769

    jmait769 High Wheeler

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    Thanks guidolyons! I contacted my local ford dealer and they wanted 26$ a pop! :censored: Was able to locate a set on Ebay for about $38 including shipping so should get those next week. Will definitely keep those sway bars in mind!!! :yes:
    Hi Scott and thanks!! :) Hope all is well with you and tRusti!!

    Received the adapter for the 700R4 to IH engine from IHPA! We had big intentions to start and pull the body off of the frame this weekend. Not even close!!

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    We did start on the shock install after welding up the C’s on the axle. Took a lot longer than I had planned but believe we have the shock towers right where they need to be. Cut the towers down to length for the front and then tacked into place. I will weld inside the 1” hole once I’m 100% sure this is where they will stay and install some tabs behind the tower on each side for added strength.

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    This was extended as far as I dare and there was still about 2” or 3” of travel left in the shock.

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    Used a cargo strap and compressed the spring. Need to figure out a bump stop also!

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    Hopefully we can start on the rear shock install tomorrow!

    Jay
     
  14. jmait769

    jmait769 High Wheeler

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    Fabricated the rear axle shock mounts based off of the chevy front axle shock mount. I tried to use the original mounts but they were too thin after flattening them out so we made some out of 1/4 “ plate.

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    Mounted the rear upper shock mount to ¼ plate that ties into the top of the frame also. Shocks are mounted at the same angle as the front shocks.

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    Up next – steering!

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  15. guidolyons

    guidolyons High Wheeler

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    Looking good Jay-:punk:

    New shock mounts look good, lots of droop, but doesn't look like there is much uptravel left? It might just be the way the shock boot is scrunched, but it doesn't look like there is much shock travel left on compression?
     
  16. jmait769

    jmait769 High Wheeler

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    Thanks guidolyons! Yes I think it is just the angle and the bunching up of the boot since they are so long. Here is a pic compressed:

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    The tire is a few inches away from the inner fender and there is still about 1 – 1 1/2 inches of up travel left in the shock (really crimps the boot!). It is a balance between enough upward travel verses full extension. I will have to install bump stops and I’m following this thread for the heep! Do I need bumpstops

    Once the bump stops are in place I will revisit the shock stroke before final welding.

    I do appreciate the input as it is better to fix now! :punk: :yes: I thought about going with a longer shock but then it will sit higher in the wheel well and bracing of the upper shock mount becomes an issue. I can also reposition the lower shock mounts on the axle with an eye on how low they hang. Will need limiting straps too!
     
  17. jmait769

    jmait769 High Wheeler

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    Hope everyone had an awesome 4th of July! [​IMG]

    We took a week off from the 69 but it did allow us to do a little trail riding! This is near the Caballo Mountains (This trail was NM pinstripe free!!) and close to where they are staging the Chili Challenge this year. Hopefully we can get out there during the event!

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    Before we left we did get started on the bump stops and started in the rear. Made some lower “toadstools” located on the axle end of the spring out of 2” tubing and 1/4 plate. We did something similar on top with replaceable bump stops.

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    Not sure we need this much down articulation?

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    Last edited: Jul 6, 2014
  18. jmait769

    jmait769 High Wheeler

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    We did start on the front bump stops but they are not installed yet. Need to make a nut plate bracket that will go inside the frame so hopefully will get that done this week.

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    This bracket allows us to replace the bump stop if needed and angles it a little forward to meet the spring plate.

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    Taking a great idea from Davis’ build Goldie we sourced a similar power steering pump and bracket from Jeff Campbell . Jeff knew exactly what I needed and this was pretty much a bolt in application. He said this came from a 345-'72-1210. Thanks Davis for the great tech and Jeff for the fast service!! :) Here is the actual pump on the truck:

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    And here it is bolted in. We did have to flip the pulley on the power steering pump to align with the front pulley on the water pump. Plenty of clearance and no fender trimming required!

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    We did not start on the gear box install so that will also be this week.
     
  19. jmait769

    jmait769 High Wheeler

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    :whistling: Further work on the frame for the steering box but not completed. Started to form a reinforcement plate around the mount area and sleeve it but ran out of O2 over the weekend. Also we mounted the bump stop and you can see a little of that

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    The plan for the rear axle was to upgrade to disk brakes and we received the TSM kit from IHPA recently. Needed to fab up a mount for the brake line and make sure the caliper cleared the shocks before complete welding of the axle.

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    Here are the steps we took to give you an idea how easy it is to install. The rear axle was removed and the old drum brake backing plate removed. We did not do anything with the axle itself as the plan is to replace with Dutchman axles from IHPA.

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    Install spacer.

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    Then install new axle retaining studs that are supplied with the kit (will install new nuts at final assembly). The red adapter plate is next with the long bolts inserted to clear the axle flange.

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    These are the spacers supplied with the kit. There are three different thicknesses for the caliper spacing. We ended up using one thick, two medium and one thin.

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    Caliper bracket installed. The direction states you can install this with welded sleeves facing inboard on the 2" axle and outboard on the 2 3/8" & 2 1/2"axles. We ended up with the sleeves facing inboard for best fit.

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    Caliper installed and we welded the brake hose retainer on the shock mount.

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  20. jmait769

    jmait769 High Wheeler

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    Continued to work on mounting the steering box this week.

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    Once we had the pattern we wanted figured out we cut and formed a plate out of ¼ steel. We inserted a 2” x ¼” dom tubing to prevent collapsing of the frame where the steering box mounts.

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    Welded the pipe to the far side frame from inside the tube (only hole drilled was on the steering box side) then welded around the perimeter on the steering box side.

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    Steering box mounted.

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    Following Havaclu’s lead we made a Borgeson steering shaft with the adapter to eliminate the rag joint.

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    These are the parts we used from Summit Racing to make up the steering link:

    UIS-8020820, Steering Column Adapter, Steel, Black, 1 in. 48-Spline
    BRG-450024, Steering Shaft, Steel Alloy, Universal
    BRG-114931, Steering Universal Joint, Stainless Steel, Natural, 3/4 in. DD, 3/4 in. 30-Spline
    BRG-114352,Steering Universal Joint, Stainless Steel, Natural, 1 in. 48-Spline, 1 in. DD

    Not really required to mount the steering box but I tried not to have to cut the inner fender if possible. In order to keep the steering box as close to the frame as possible we removed ¼” from the three steering bosses on the mount. This was the machining setup.

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    Milling off ¼”.

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    This is the end result.

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