Daughter/Father Build ’69 800A

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by jmait769, Feb 21, 2014.


  1. scout2000

    scout2000 Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    I was able to clear my fender-well, also with no cutting, using a Jeep TJ power brake booster, and the frequently used 1969 Corvette master cylinder.

    Also note, Eric Younger/D & C Extreme, also sells a full assembly that both clears the fender well and is very attractive.

    I did the Scout 2 dana 44 axle upgrade front and rear. I have the Scout 2 disc upfront.

    Originally, I had purchased the standard Cadillac rear disc brake kit, that several light line dealers sell, and/or people put together from junkyard parts.

    IMHO, the Cadillac calipers are junk, dumped more money into them than I care to share and I have finally moved beyond them. TSM (The Street Machine), the same company that put together the Cadillac kit, also sells , IMHO, a better kit that utilizes Wilwood calipers. My stopping power is incredible, and can't say enough good things about this kit. The Wilwood calipers are also Corvette parts, so if you were, to say, have a brake problem a couple of states away from home, you should be able to pick up parts at a local auto parts store, same as the Cadillac kit.

    Another option is hydroboost. Not personally a fan of this, seems like this leaves a complicated mess under the hood, but it seems that everyone who has jumped thru the hoops to install one loves it, so who am I to judge? Either way, trying to be complete as possible.

    Good luck, please post which ever path you take.
     
  2. scout2000

    scout2000 Dreams of Cub Cadets

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  3. Kenneth Barber

    Kenneth Barber Farmall Cub

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    Side question...Anyone know if possibly the brake lines are different sizes.


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  4. grendel_cave

    grendel_cave Farmall Cub

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    Hi jmait769.

    I got around to installing those Maxima backup/stop/turn lights in Patches. I also installed these in the stock back up light housings. Screen Shot 2017-12-17 at 5.07.21 PM.png
    These little puppies put out 290 lumens each. I found 'em over at Superbright LEDS. Anyway, the combination of the new 1156s and the Maxxima taillights is simply incredible. In reverse, one would think the sun came up a bit early. I'll never have problems seeing in reverse, at night again :banana:
     
  5. marduk101567

    marduk101567 Farmall Cub

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    Part #?


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  6. grendel_cave

    grendel_cave Farmall Cub

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    jmait769,
    I finished the install on the Maxxima back up lights today--complete with the clone of the mounting flange you provided me instructions for. This is how it turned out.

    I, however added a few extra steps.
    Here are the painted, mounting flanges.

    flanges.JPG

    1. First, I cut gaskets for the mounting flanges from 6"x6" plumbers "cut your own gasket sheet" they sell at Lowes. The material is 1/16" I did this as the mounting flange actually pushes the Maxxima light outward by by about 1/16" This, however, also means that the portion of the flange that the light mounts to is 1/16" away from the mounting surface of the tail cap. Adding a gasket will help it seal against the tail cap and provide an even surface for the screws to hold it in place.

    gaskets.JPG
    2. gaskets installed: gasket-flange.JPG
    4. installed:
    rear-unlit.JPG Rtailcap.JPG rear-unlit.JPG Rtailcap.JPG lefttailcap.JPG litup.JPG
     
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  7. grendel_cave

    grendel_cave Farmall Cub

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    ...too bad the back up lights (maxximas and 1156 LEDs) are not toggle switch activated; for the benefit of tailgaters ;-) :gun_bandana:
     
  8. jmait769

    jmait769 High Wheeler

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    Lol!! Well, I thought about the diamond tread but this idea came to me when I was working on that huey for the Vietnam memorial. I actually tried to lift some off of the spare huey we had but not enough was available. Now a T53 would be awesome but loud!! :devil:
    If that booster is good I would look at the rod length like you and 72soa have suggested. I had an F350 I replaced the booster on and it had an adjustment between the master cylinder and the booster. After install the new booster the braking effort was as if there was no booster at all. It didn’t take much of a change in this adjuster to effect brake performance so after a few small adjustments the brakes felt like I was driving a new truck! . Little writeup here about that: Pushrod
    Man that complicated mess is the cool part!!! :laugh:
    On brake line sizes I believe the consensus is that 3/16 is the size to go with in disk/disk systems. I have read that is what Wilwood recommends for their systems and what we used on this build.

    Now the stock 77 SSII we have uses a combination of 3/16 and 1/4. The lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve are 1/4. Rear brake line is 3/16 and the line to the driver’s side brake line/distribution block is 3/16. From that block over to the passenger side the brake line is 1/4. I’m sure this has something to do with moving the fluid efficiently with only the one line from the proportioning valve used for both left and right front calipers.

    When we researched our brake system for this build I found this tidbit of info on the web helpful:

    HYDRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEMS
    Engineers must consider these principles of force,
    pressure, and motion when designing a brake system for
    any vehicle. If an engineer chooses a master cylinder with
    relatively small piston areas, the brake system can develop
    very high hydraulic pressure, but the pedal travel will be
    extremely long. Moreover, if the master cylinder piston
    travel is not long enough, this high-pressure system will not
    move enough fluid to apply the large-area caliper pistons
    regardless of pressure. If, on the other hand, the engineer
    selects a large-area master cylinder piston, it can move a
    large volume of fluid but may not develop enough pressure
    to exert adequate braking force at the wheels.
    The overall size relationships of master cylinder pistons,
    caliper pistons, and wheel cylinder pistons are balanced
    to achieve maximum braking force without grabbing
    or fading. Most brake systems with front discs and rear
    drums have large-diameter master cylinders (a large piston
    area) and a power booster to increase the input force.

    Also we found some good info in this writeup for the hydroboost mod: Hydroboost
    Dude that is sweet!!!! Almost looks like headlights in there!!! I'm going to steal the gasket idea - thanks!!

    Well, as usual life has gotten in the way of this build. We decided to take a little vacation at the first of the month and next thing you know its almost Christmas!! Time feels like it is on overdrive but we did manage some more sanding and prepping for paint! I also got the Lizard Skin Ceramic coating and gun in and some DEI heat shield material.

    [​IMG]

    Hoping for some Scout time this weekend!!
     
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  9. Comanche Scott

    Comanche Scott High Wheeler

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    Definitely looking forward to how this comes out.
    I've heard a lot of very good things on the Lizard skin. :)
     
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  10. Bussy

    Bussy High Wheeler

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    I got the same stuff and mine is great...sitting in the closet waiting for me to put it on. :uhh: Let us know how it sprays on. I got the gun too.
     
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  11. FSM09

    FSM09 Binder Driver

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    Hey Jay,
    I'm sure I'm just missing it in the thread. Which Corbeau seats did you go with? are they comfortable? I was thinking about the Moab seats or possible the xrs. Not sure I want to spend that much on the XRS though.
     
  12. jmait769

    jmait769 High Wheeler

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    We went with Baja RS’s. I have only gotten some garage seat time in them but they feel pretty comfortable. I know Guido put some PRP’s and he always has good things to say about his. Plus he has seat time!!! ;) Also Scott has given you some good info so anxious to see what way you go!!

    We have had some pretty nice weather here the last few days and have taken advantage of that. Not as much progress as I would like but at least something! The plan was to apply the Lizard Skin today but that ain’t happening! Went ahead and removed the rest of the old rubber undercoating. What a bear but I think necessary because it is applied so unevenly throughout and to also treat any surface rust we find.

    [​IMG]

    We’ve modified pretty much everything else some way or another so decided we might as well make the gas tank location flat. I noticed the cross brace has rubbed a little on the forward area of the tank and felt that wasn’t ideal. This required moving the cross brace forward about 4” and modding it a little to fit. A lot of plug welding left!!

    [​IMG]
     
  13. FSM09

    FSM09 Binder Driver

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    I think I am going to go with Corbeau seats. It looks like I will get a rear bench also. Really like the apex seats. They seem to be for side by side though. I might call them and see if they would work. Being in a small area it’s cheaper to buy new Corbeau then used seats.
     
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  14. Justutt67

    Justutt67 Farmall Cub

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    Excellent work on the Scout. Have you put a front driveshaft in yet? I put a Jeep Dana 300 behind my 700r4 and my front shaft vibrates like crazy. I need a CV style joint at the front transfer case output to cure it but it's too close to transmission pan and won't fit. I'm going to be swapping in a NP241 out of a 1990 suburban and going single stick.
     
  15. jmait769

    jmait769 High Wheeler

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    Thanks! Is the vibration at highway speed? How about the pinion angles at differential – transfer case? Just wondering what your setup is. On ours I have not installed a shaft but used the stock one to mockup the tranny/transfer case position. We did use a clocking ring to rotate the Dana 300 down and mounted the tranny at a slight angle (off center) to give better clearance for the shaft.

    [​IMG]

    Now we also have a little bit of lift :laugh: and used a Dana 44 from a Chevy truck cut to Scout II width. We did not angle the front differential pinion towards the transfer case (like you would when using the CV style) but kept the differential at stock pinion angle.

    [​IMG]

    Here are a few pics I took tonight. For the life of me I cannot find the stock front drive shaft but used the rear Tom Woods shaft to show the clearance we have.

    [​IMG]

    Using a 1½” square tube this is straight out from the transfer case

    [​IMG]

    This shows the square tube pointed down towards the differential.

    [​IMG]

    Plan is to get this painted, assembled and then order a shaft from Tom Woods. I discussed with them some options and will use a solid shaft like stock with the slip joint mounted at the differential.

    I say all that to let you know how we are setting ours up. I did try our rear shaft with the double cardan in the front and it does hit the tranny pan.

    [​IMG]

    HTH
     
  16. Justutt67

    Justutt67 Farmall Cub

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    Yeah it's tight. Mine vibrates at 5 mph never took it higher than 10 cause I didn't want to screw it up. I think my problem is I have a chevy front axle for the SOA and I also have 6* shims that I bought from IH parts America. My front pinion pretty much points directly at my front T-case output so the angle of the driveshaft at the pinion isn't equal and opposite the T-case angle I think that's why it vibrates on me. I need the cv joint but like you said it hits tranny pan.
     
  17. jmait769

    jmait769 High Wheeler

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    Small update on this one. Life has gotten in the way again (for like the last 4 years!!!) and we also couldn’t help ourselves and brought home another Scout. I’ll open up another thread on this one soon.

    [​IMG]

    In the meantime, I did get some more work done on the bottom side of this one. Primed it, painted with some black epoxy paint and have roughed it up for the Lizard Skin. Added some DEI heat shielding to the tranny access panel. Plan is to Lizard Skin the black areas and U-POL Raptor the wheel well areas. I did get the tintable kit and will color match with that. I like the underside to be painted the same as the body color so the Lizard Skin will be painted to match. Still cleaning up the wheel wells and waiting for it to get a little bit warmer for the body paint.

    [​IMG]
     
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  18. 800bman

    800bman High Wheeler

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    No way, you joined the Aristocrat club!?
     
  19. Comanche Scott

    Comanche Scott High Wheeler

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  20. jmait769

    jmait769 High Wheeler

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    Yep!!
    A few dents put basically rust free. Definitely the cleanest inside - no smell and no rat nests!! I'll get that thread started but I'm hung up on a name for it right now! :cornfused::cornfused: An actual name for the Scout not the thread.

    [​IMG]
     
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