Dana 44 Closed Knuckle Hub Rebuild

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by eightOsix, May 7, 2018.


  1. eightOsix

    eightOsix Binder Driver

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    My hub is spewing grease, looks like the outer seal is dry and cracked. Haven't done anything with the hubs for a long time, like maybe 7 years.
    They work just fine, but its time to take them off, clean up, check the wheel bearings, brakes, etc.
    The hub has eight bolts and is marked "M55".
    Can anybody point me towards a service kit for these hubs?
    Thanks!

    hub sm.JPG
     
  2. Dana Strong

    Dana Strong Y-Block King

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    I would call Warn and ask them for their model/part number (and maybe the breakdown diagram too), assuming they made the hubs. Here is contact information:
    https://www.warn.com/wwwapps/contactus/contactUs.jsp
     
  3. eightOsix

    eightOsix Binder Driver

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    I have the parts exploded view fro the parts manual. Should be a FA16 axle.
     

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  4. eightOsix

    eightOsix Binder Driver

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    Predictably:
    Unfortunately we have not offered that hub for decades now and no longer have any service kits or parts available.
    Regards,

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Dana Strong

    Dana Strong Y-Block King

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    Assuming that you just need to disassemble and clean the hubs while you work on the wheel bearings, etc and that the hubs work correctly other than leaking...
    I see no gaskets, only 3 "O" rings, and no parts I'd expect to have worn out. The "O" rings can be gotten from a few places online and probably any large town nearby. I'd expect them to be of Nitrile, and to use English dimensions. Here are three sites to check for size information and possibly to order from:
    If you do determine sizes, then order and successfully replace the rings, you might later add the information to the Useful Part Number List thread, listing them under both the model and part number for the Hub assembly as search terms.

     
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  6. kevingweq

    kevingweq High Wheeler

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  7. eightOsix

    eightOsix Binder Driver

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    Thanks Kevin. I had looked at Torqueking, but couldn't find any specific kits or parts for hubs like these. They do have lots of parts.
    The hubs are listed in the service manual as manual hubs, as opposed to lock-o-matic. There are two types of manual hubs - spring loaded or non-spring loaded like these I am working on.
    I took off one hub today and cleaned it up. The only o ring I need is the o ring that fits between the hub and the wheel hub body. I measured it at 3" inside diameter and 1/8" width. Found and ordered 4 of them from The O Ring Store.
    The other two o rings are inside the control assembly which looks to be non-serviceable. At least very difficult to disassemble.
    Below are some pics of the process.
    Hub exploded view.jpg IMG_4922 sm.JPG IMG_4923 sm.JPG IMG_4927 sm.JPG
     
  8. Dana Strong

    Dana Strong Y-Block King

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    I think there are a couple manual versions which differ on type of outside mounting screws and perhaps some inside dimensions, but are operationally the same. My manual shows one which has a small flat head screw staked into the clutch screw, the small screw needing to be removed to start disassembly of the clutch body. I don't, however, see such a screw in your picture. If the parts turn smoothly and the leakage wasn't coming from that section, I'd think you have cleaned the unit enough already, based on your photograph.
    If you decide differently, I could summarize or maybe copy the rest of the disassembly instructions, which may or not apply to your unit.
     
  9. eightOsix

    eightOsix Binder Driver

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    Here's a closeup of the clutch screw showing the small flat head screw that holds the control and body together. This part does work fine, maybe a little stiff. To disassemble would require some chisel work, according to the manual. I am using the truck service manual CTS -2303.
     

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  10. Dana Strong

    Dana Strong Y-Block King

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    That picture shows the screw much better; I couldn't identify it as one in the earlier shot. My book is CTS-2302, probably very similar information about the hubs.
    You might try putting some light oil such a 3-In-One around the adjusting screw/control knob edges and rotate them to work some into any old grease inside, that intended to make it less stiff. If that didn't do the job and I was determined, I might put the entire part into a small container of such oil, place the container in a vacuum chamber and suck some air out, expecting the oil to be forced in when pressure is returned.
     
  11. eightOsix

    eightOsix Binder Driver

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    Pulled the brake drum to get a look at the bearings. Came off easily. There was a gooey mess inside the hub/brake drum like the knuckle lube was migrating.
    The inner bearing felt a little rough. Maybe could be original, or at least very old, bearings and seal. The seal number did not cross reference and the numbers on the bearings were hard to make out, but I was able to figure out the parts needed using the Rock Auto website.
    Inner Bearing: Timken LM 603049
    Outer Bearing: Timken LM 501349
    Oil Seal: SKF 24904
    I have one question about the axle play in the spindle. The axle moves around quite a bit, and moves in and out maybe 1/4 inch. Is this normal? Or do I need to remove the axle and inspect the u-joint in the knuckle? Or there is a spindle bushing that could be worn?
    spindle.jpg wheel bearings.jpg
     
  12. Dana Strong

    Dana Strong Y-Block King

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    Just curious; did the existing numbers appear to be IH ones, or something else? Could you post them too, just for possibly useful information if somebody is searching with them later?
    I don't know or have a breakdown for the front closed-joint D44 unit, but believe it's the same as the D27/30 upon which the following comments are based.
    No seal exists between the axle and the inner surface of the spindle, although the ball joint lube level is normally below the spindle. For lube to migrate that far, it would need to follow the axle to the end of the spindle (where the drive flange would normally be), then out and back through the outer hub bearing, in farther through the hub, then through the inner bearing and finally past the seal, into the drum area. With a locking-hub in place, I think the path might even be more involved.
    Assuming the rear hub seal is still pliable, its fit on the hub is mostly dependent on hub runout, which in turn depends on bearing fitment and play. I think that, unless a vehicle is driven extensively with one side much higher than the other, most lube getting into the drum area probably was originally in the bearing chamber (which may have been packed beyond need).
    As for the axle play, its inner end is free to slide axially in the differential side gear; its outer end is retained within the hub, both radially and axially. I don't know what the normal radial play is at the joint within the ball, but without the hub attached, the outer end is free to move much more than when assembled, both there and farther out.
    Do your ball joints have 90w oil, or have they been filled with either an oil/grease mix, or the special thixotrophic lube recommended in some past threads? Might be worth considering that last material when refilling them.
    BTW...The manual shows the cross section of the axle assembly fairly well, but it would be interesting to see (or produce) a modified version showing a locking hub installed instead of the drive flange. Wonder if one exists somewhere already, perhaps on the Dana/Spicer site?
     
  13. eightOsix

    eightOsix Binder Driver

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    Dana - Thanks for the reply. It will be interesting to see if the right side hub has the same appearance as far as lubricant. Plan to disassemble today.
    The knuckles are filled with "00" grease - don't know if it is thixotrophic (had to look that up), but it has the consistency of pudding in the bottle.
    I do leave the hubs engaged all winter because I'm in and out of 4x4 on most every drive. That would spin the axle in the knuckle and spindle.
    I am counting on the fact that everything is working fine, no clunks or rattles, in the axles to avoid delving into axle removal.
    Would IH bearings have an IH stamping?
    00 Grease.jpg
     
  14. Dana Strong

    Dana Strong Y-Block King

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    I don't know if IH bought enough to have a maker put an IH number on any, or if IH actually made any itself ... or if any were made to IH specs and automatically were given an IH number (which later got an industry number?). A few bearings are listed in the front of the Numerical Index of the Parts books and have short & different numbers than most items, e.g. ST-200 shown with its IH box Here (in an Ebay ad) and listed in the parts book for use with the output shaft of the Code 13038 transmission.
    I'd guess that most later bearings had standard industry numbers.
    I finally remembered the name or that John Deere Cornhead Grease I mentioned earlier; kept thinking it was Cornbinder...
     
  15. eightOsix

    eightOsix Binder Driver

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    That Cornhead Grease is one notch thicker than the "00".
    The other side was also apparently contaminated with the knuckle lube. Messy. It was not getting out the inner seal into the brake area.
    I am wondering if perhaps I overfilled the knuckles. That would have been in 2014. Not sure how I could have done that.
    The bearing stamps were easy to read on this side, and matched up with the Timken numbers above.
    The outlier is the oil seal which was stamped Trostel 316 232 4.
    I went ahead and ordered some spindle bushings, so I'll be removing the brake backing plate and spindle next week.
    inner wheel bearing and seal.jpg
     

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