Cub Cadet questions...

Discussion in 'Tractor Tech' started by David Banner, Nov 9, 2018.


  1. David Banner

    David Banner High Wheeler

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    Between the morning dew and the afternoon showers...
    The 14hp Kohler did not seem to notice...
    Now if I can figure out a better pattern so this all takes less time -- I need a "mowing for dummies" guide...

    Oh, long as I'm taking a break...

    It wouldn't start, using the key-switch yesterday (everything worked before sitting two weeks...)
    Noticed the amp gauge didn't budge when I turned the ignition switch on, but it did move to discharge if I turned on the headlights...
    Had to use a screwdriver to jump the relay to get it started.
    After which the amp gauge then read charging.
    Can I assume it's a bad relay or is there more troubleshooting to do...?
    (I confess I haven't looked at the wiring diagram but I've seen enough "fixes" now to know I shouldn't assume the wiring is still oem anyway...)
     
  2. kdsmit

    kdsmit Farmall Cub

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    On mine, I need to have the clutch/brake all the way down, very firmly.
     
  3. David Banner

    David Banner High Wheeler

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    Ahh, I now see there are two "safety" switch & circuits that be the problem as well...
    Perhaps the switch is just out of adjustment...

    Probably unrelated but this part fell/broke off the mower the first time I used it...
    Yeah, I know... If it was an acft I wouldn't have started it again before identifying what it was... different standards...

    I'm assuming the failure is from vibration/fatigue. I spotted it on the ground while mowing and saw from the paint that it came from my 'new' tractor but didn't directly affect anything -- but I'm sure it also had a purpose...

    IMG_1293.jpg IMG_1294.jpg
     
  4. David Banner

    David Banner High Wheeler

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    D'oh!
    And when you do (push down the clutch/brake) that piece of metal I posted a pic of depresses the safety switch on the clutch/brake linkage.
    (I knew as soon as I wrote that they were "probably unrelated" I'd eat those words...)

    Switch is bypassed for now -- maybe I'll try welding spring steel but probably not...

    I also noticed the same kinda metal tang was broken off the release valves for the hydrostatic pump -- 45 years of vibration taking their toll...
     
  5. Gus Erickson

    Gus Erickson Farmall Cub

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    Sorry so long... When I ad RV antifreeze, it's the pink stuff used for storage. No tubes needed. Just break the bead and pour it in. My aggies have had fluid in them now for over 12 years with no rust, rot or leaks. I filled them pretty full. Very full. With wheel weights I am running 150lbs a side. It's the only Cub I have that will push the IH pulling truck around. 1000 plowing.jpg
    Don't bother with the brake/ start springy thingy. Leave it jumped. The Hydro lever is used for pushing or pulling the tractor around. It works on the hydro release valves. If they go to leaking you can replace them with auto release valves form a newer tractor
     
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  6. Greg R

    Greg R Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    You gotta have air space. Most instructions for tractors show filling with the air valve at the 12 o'clock position. This allows for a little over 75% fill. The remaining air space allows for expansion and cushion, otherwise risk busting a tire or tread. Maybe not so much on baby tractors, but it is on bigger ones where a tire is easily a month's paycheck or most of one.
     
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  7. kdsmit

    kdsmit Farmall Cub

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    A big radial tire may exceed 2 paychecks!
     
  8. David Banner

    David Banner High Wheeler

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    Indeed -- I am shocked by what these little low speed/low load cub cadet tires cost!
    (On the otherhand -- that helps justify the search for a "parts tractor" that has decent rubber!)
     

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