couple basic questions

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Scott80, Apr 15, 2019 at 11:14 AM.


  1. Scott80

    Scott80 Farmall Cub

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    Have some rookie questions for you veterans

    1.Shocks: if my current shocks at resting position measure 15 inches can I add a total of 3 more inches (1.5 up and 1.5 down) when purchasing new ones for overall size? I was asked what compressed and open measurements where so I assumed that 1.5-inch travel would be appropriate.

    I was also told that bilstein 5125 over 5100 for scout 80, suggestions?


    2.Gas mileage: should I be burning through 7 gallons for a 70-mile trip? Considering the age I know the smell of gas is common but should it be bothersome when driving?


    3.Would a one-inch spacer on the rear and front cause to much stress on the bearings? Can’t do the lift route so want a small bump out.


    4.Clutch/synchros: While driving I need to wait for the RPMs to settle down when shifting from one gear to the next. If I try and switch gears fast with little loss in RPMs I grind. 1 to 2 is ok but if I wait to long for 2 to 3 the truck seems to bog down a bit because I have lost power. How do i check my trans fluid?



    I attached three photos and if someone can please identify them for me

    scout misc 1: whats it purpose and does in need to be through the hole. If i cant bend it, can i add extension?

    scout misc 2:seems to be leaking. name and function, seal or whole unit

    scout misc 3: tester points to an open valve, should it be left alone and whats it purpose? On the engine below the throttle there is a 9 degree thread into the engine with a cap on the nipple. that normal or should it go with the exposed valve?

    scout misc 4: master is new and whats the other? seems to be leaking

    Thanks for the help
     

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    Last edited: Apr 15, 2019 at 11:29 AM
  2. Scoutcamper

    Scoutcamper Farmall Cub

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    What vehicle / year / motor? I'm guessing early Scout 80 with 152 4cyl?

    I don't feel qualified enough to answer the suspension or mileage questions...

    What transmission do you have? First gear might not have a synchro.

    I'm going to take a stab at the pics, going from general knowledge and not that familiar with the early motors... I'll try to check back and correct myself if nobody else jumps in:

    scoutmisc1 I'm guessing oil vent / blow-by tube. Lots of earlier vehicles had a tube to vent crankcase pressure directly to outside the motor / down at the road, before emissions requirements made PVC systems that recycled crankcase fumes to the intake mandatory.

    scoutmisc2 is the fuel pump, leak seems to be from the mounting surface? I'm guessing a new gasket might solve it, might need new gasket on the engine side cover / tappet cover as well.

    scoutmisc3 I'm guessing is the vacuum feed to the wipers

    scoutmisc4 is the brake master cylinder (top) and clutch master cylinder (bottom)

    Hope this helps!

    -Josh
     
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  3. mallen

    mallen High Wheeler

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    10mpg seems to be a bit on the low side. Id bet the smell of gas is connected to the low mileage, that is, gas is leaving the vehicle unburned. Is the smell coming from the exhaust pipe? If not, then it seems you may have a leak. If it IS coming from the exhaust, then check wires and plugs. Make sure the timing and dwell (if you have points) are set right. Check the air filter. Make sure there are not internal leaks in the carburetor. (for example, a dirty needle valve or maladjusted float can cause the float bowl to overflow and dump fuel in the intake. (If its not to bad, the vehicle can still run, but poorly) Also check that the choke is opened when the vehicle is warmed up if you have an automatic choke, or that it opens and closes properly with the choke control if you have a manual choke. Another thing to check is compression.

    Aside from the gas smell, if your having transmission issues and cant shift smoothly or at the right speeds, that can also negatively impact your mileage. (there may be several causes) What gearing are you running in the rear end? The gearing can affect your mileage as well.
     
  4. Scott80

    Scott80 Farmall Cub

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    yes 152 3 speed
    t14 trans
    4.27 gear ratio


    gas smell is in the cabin while driving, not so much at idle
    I have to old oil bath filter
    I have an electric fuel pump now, can I block that off?
    I have to look into those issues mallen.
    thanks to both of you guys so far
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2019 at 3:57 PM
  5. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    I am not sure there is any real difference between the 5100 and 5125. I think all the 51xx shocks have the same piston and valving type. All that really matters is the max and min length (extended and compressed length), and the damping plate configuration. Most people who go with Bilstein 51xx shocks in their Scouts get the 255/70 valving. Those numbers actually do mean something. If you want to know I can point you where to read about it. Basically it means a fair amount of rebound damping and a bit lighter compression damping. It will give you a 'sporty' ride and is very well suited for the pavement. You could go with the 170/60 valving. The ride will be cushier overall, but also a little bouncier if the road surface gets uneven.

    Regarding the travel you mention, your suspension must have more than just 3" of travel. It would be safer to assume around 6" of travel. (My Scout's front suspension has 10" travel shocks, but it's lifted a bit.) You don't want to drive into something harsh one day bottom out your shocks!
     
  6. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    To clarify the shock length question. If as you say, your shock's "resting" length when mounted is 15", you probably want a shock with a min length of around 12" and an extended length of about 18" or better.

    And upward (compression) travel of the suspension can be controlled with bump stops. The bigger/taller they are, the sooner they contact the axle and begin absorbing the movement.
     
  7. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Regarding your transmission, says on Novak's site that it's fully synchronized with helically cut gears. And it was used in a LOT of Jeep CJs. So it should shift much better than yours does.
    http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/manual/t14

    Novak says it was introduced in '67 for the Jeeps. What year is your Scout again?

    You check the fluid level as you fill the transmission. There should be two plugs on its right side. The lower one is for draining, the other is for filling. The image below that I grabbed off ebay shows what they look like. So once you drain the old oil, you reinstall the drain plug, remove the Fill plug and (using a hose dealy) pump in new oil/fluid until it begins running out that hole. This is how you fill your transmission to the proper level. It can be a messy process so have a drip pan and rags handy. Then of course, install the fill plug.

    So you could just remove the fill plug and see if it takes oil. But seeing how this Scout is new to you and lord knows what kind of oil was used earlier by the prev owner and how long ago, you may as well just drain it and refill with the right stuff. It should take a GL4 transmission oil formulated for syncro transmissions, but many people get by quite well using thicker grade motor oils. like straight 50wt. Do some research here on the board if you want. But be warned, oil threads are numerous and get be long, rambly, and heated.


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2019 at 9:43 AM
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  8. Darrel

    Darrel Y-Block King

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  9. Scott80

    Scott80 Farmall Cub

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    photo attached




    I dont mind but Im even more confused now about wheels. I have 3.75 back space and have gotten the rubbing gone. If I go with a 30 inch bf all ter tire what spacing should I be looking for. I just want a slight bump out

    great resources both of you, thank you!
     

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  10. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    I'm not sure what is confusing to you. I believe he's just saying that if you want the wheels out a little farther, get wheels that are made that way. Spacers can create a weak link between your wheels and your hubs. I mentioned spacers to you as one option, but I was thinking at the time more like 1/2" spacers. And even those would probably require longer wheel studs. Longer probably means more prone to failure over the long haul.
     
  11. Greg R

    Greg R Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    I'll tackle your questions: 1) the "pipe" is the crankcase breather or road draft tube. They do tend to drip. I noticed the optional skid pan under the engine and I wouldn't force the pipe to the hole. Let it be for now. 2) the leak seems to originate from the fuel pump mounting flange. Maybe the bolts are loose. Maybe you need a gasket. 3) those are connections to the fuel pump's vacuum pump. It is used or needed for good vacuum wiper operation. What are the wipers running on now? Cap the connections for now to keep the dirt out. 4) the new master cylinder is for the clutch. The leaky one is for the brakes. It appears it's just the cap that is seeping. Maybe the master is overfilled or the gasket in the cap is missing. If the brakes are OK, just tidy up the cap.

    Overall you seem to have a very early Scout. When you need information it is good for us to know the year/model and any information such as engine, transmission, chassis number, etc.

    No wheel spacers. It's a very sketchy set up. 30" tires are about the max for a stock suspension/rig that gives good road manners and no rubbing. It is very close to stock and should work fine. For shocks in 2002 I went with Rancho RS5000 shocks. They have been good for me with good trail and road manners.
     
  12. Scoutcamper

    Scoutcamper Farmall Cub

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    Also just noticed in the scout misc 2 pic that it looks like you have a sharp kink in the hard line coming out of the brass fitting on the lower right side of the pic. I'm guessing this is feeding either your oil-bath air filter or your oil pressure gauge. If you have low oil pressure showing on your gauge that would explain it.

    -Josh
     
  13. Heyyouguys

    Heyyouguys Farmall Cub

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    My previous owner added spacers and I about lost a front wheel. 2-3 broken studs and lots of terrifying thoughts! Do a lot of research before using them!
     
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  14. winchested

    winchested High Wheeler

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    I would never run spacers on 40+ year old studs. I've replaced all my lug studs with brand new dormans. Running 1.5" spacers. As long as you properly torque your spacers the same as a wheel there is absolutely no difference in a spacer bolted to a hub than a wheel bolted to a hub.

    Every dually on the road is running spacers bolted to the hubs...

    Sent from my SM-G870W using Tapatalk
     
  15. 1975IH200

    1975IH200 High Wheeler

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    My truck is a dually and does not have spacers. Never had spacers. It has proper dually wheels.
     

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