Coolant through the carburetor!!

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by 37 Caddy, Mar 23, 2020.


  1. 37 Caddy

    37 Caddy Farmall Cub

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    What the hell is going on? There is coolant flooding through the carburetor.
    I spent the weekend tearing down my 152 engine due to a washer getting droppe dthrough the carb. I took off the intake and head. I eplaced the head gasket and put the engine back together with some shinier parts from my stash. "New parts" included a fresh intake manifold. All new gaskets and I buttoned it up. While filling it with coolant today it started flowing up through the carburetor.

    What would have caused this? I did notice one of the ports on the original intake manifold was blocked, on the new manifold it was open.

    Also, any thoughts on how to get the water out of this engine and try to salvage it?

    Thanks
     
  2. Zaedster

    Zaedster Farmall Cub

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    Did you seal the intake bolts and install the gasket correctly?
     
  3. 1975IH200

    1975IH200 Y-Block King

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    1st, post some photos of the engine.
    You may have attached a heater hose to an incorrect port on the intake manifold.
    Or you could have the incorrect intake. (152 and 196 do not interchange)

    Fix the error first.
    Remove all spark plugs, drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
    Spray MMO into each cylinder and rotate crankshaft by hand until cylinders are clear.
    Install spark plugs, Refill oil and filter and start her up.
     
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  4. 37 Caddy

    37 Caddy Farmall Cub

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    I thought so, but I may have rushed it. It was gushing through the carb, much more than a small leak.
     
  5. 37 Caddy

    37 Caddy Farmall Cub

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    I don't have a heater, so no heater hoses.
    I will work on pictures.
    I will get to work on draining the engine.
     
  6. mallen

    mallen Y-Block King

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    If the antifreeze got into the engine oil, you have a serious problem. The glycols in the antifreeze combine with the oil addatives and precipitate out as a microscopic grit. That Is what destroys your engine when you fix a head gasket but don't clean your engine properly. It's not corossive to the bearings, it's abrasive. Draining the oil and replacing it actually makes it even worse, because there's still an excess of coolant left in the engine and it precipitates even MORE grit from the fresh oil.

    The way to fix it is to get a gallon of butyl cellosolve. It's available from chemical suppliers. Look for a local one, you can find them on Google. Shipping is probably cost prohibitive. Butyl Cellosolve acts to allow the coolant to disolve into the engine oil. Get some 50wt NON detergent motor oil. You don't want to make MORE grit. Mix it 50-50 with the butyl Cellosolve.
    First fix the problem, drain the coolant and flush the cooling system with water until all the coolant is out. Then refill with water. If you still have a problem, you don't want to recontaminate the engine after you clean it out.
    Next, drain the dirty oil , replace the replace the filter and refill with the correct amount of the mixture. Run it for 20 minutes. Then drain the oil and replace the filter. That will get all the coolant out.

    Once you have verified that everything is good and you not leaking water into the oil again, you can replace the water with real coolant.
     
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  7. 37 Caddy

    37 Caddy Farmall Cub

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    Now might be a good time to review the proper installation of the intake manifold. I just removed it and I will get pictures to you as soon as I figure out how. When I was removing the intake maniofold, it appears I may not have torqued it down in my rush, in the dark, in my frustration. I should also mention this is the first time I have taken this engine apart quite so extensively, so I am learning the hard way.

    Gasket: Any sealant necessary on the gasket? a small bead around the water passages?
    Bolts: Do I need to put any silicone in the bolt holes? None of the bolts had any such residue when I took them out.
    Tightening: I have a manual and the proper torque specs. However, I can't get an extension and torque wrench on at least 2 of the bolts, they are shrouded by the manifold. I have to take them in and out using a box end wrench.
    - Any other words of advice?
    As much as I not so secretly want to swap this engine for an IH-V8, I also don't want to ruin a perfectly good engine.
    Thanks for all the help.
     
  8. 37 Caddy

    37 Caddy Farmall Cub

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    Here are the pictures of the intake manifolds. Any ideas on the open passage on the grey manifold vs. the closed one on the red manifold? IMG_1627.jpg IMG_1628.jpg
     
  9. patrick r

    patrick r Binder Driver

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    From memory, there was a change fairly early to the 152 intake. You must have one early and one more common intake. They also require two different gaskets. Do some searching here and you should find more clarification.


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  10. George Womack

    George Womack Y-Block King

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    The gray manifold is an aluminum one, which predates the red cast iron manifold. The open passage on the aluminum manifold is open to coolant. The corresponding hole in the cylinder head is exhaust. On V8 engines, this passage lets exhaust enter the intake manifold to heat it in order to bring it up to temperature quicker. If you assemble an engine with the aluminum manifold and the incorrect intake manifold gasket (one with this hole open) it will soon dump all the coolant into the exhaust system. The only way I can think that coolant would come out the carburetor is if you have a hole inside the manifold between the coolant passage and an intake runner.


    .
     
  11. scout2000

    scout2000 Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Thank you !

    I did not know that. Very possibly, the shining gem post of this thread.

    I learn something new here about Binders almost every day.
     
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  12. 37 Caddy

    37 Caddy Farmall Cub

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    Responding to - "The gray manifold is an aluminum one, which predates the red cast iron manifold."
    I think we still have a mystery. Both of these intakes are aluminum and they have the same part numbers. The only difference is one has a letter V and the other has an H below the part number.
    IMG_1659.jpg IMG_1657.jpg IMG_1658.jpg IMG_1660.jpg
    The best I can think of is that I didn't torque down the intake correctly.
    Gasket: Any sealant necessary on the gasket? a small bead around the water passages?
    Bolts: Do I need to put any silicone in the bolt holes? None of the bolts had any such residue when I took them out.
    Tightening: I have a manual and the proper torque specs. However, I can't get an extension and torque wrench on at least 2 of the bolts, they are shrouded by the manifold. I have to take them in and out using a box end wrench. Is there a specific tightening sequence?
    - Any other words of advice?

    Thanks, Jay
     
  13. Greg R

    Greg R Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    I work from the center out in an alternating pattern such as this 7 5 3 1 2 4 6 8. I do it in stages. For low torques, 2 passes with one at 1/2 value and full value at the last or final pass. Over 60 ft lbs values, I switch to 3rds or three passes for other large castings or heads.

    It helps to have the right tools and those manifold bolts can sure get nested so I use a manifold wrench AKA starter wrench: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Point...074667?hash=item2636701e2b:g:SkMAAOSw7rReUuxV

    Sometimes a torque wrench just can't in there and angles throw readings off so you have to learn by feel. One thing to try is torque something in a jig or part in a vise manually, then check with a torque wrench to see how close or far off you are. After a few exercises you'll learn "tightness" vs wrench length.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2020 at 12:48 AM
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  14. patrick r

    patrick r Binder Driver

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    The two are definitely different. Search here to see if you can find out if you need to use a specific one on your engine and what gasket is correct.
    No silicone at all. For the gasket the only thing I would use is the spray on copper type. If the bolt holes are “through” use a thread sealant (not silicone). If “blind” use nothing.
    Also check the intake surface for flat and correct if necessary.


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  15. George Womack

    George Womack Y-Block King

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    Interesting--I don't think I've ever seen an aluminum manifold with the closed center coolant port. Since you have the gray manifold off again, you could pour water into the coolant passages and see if it comes out the carburetor hole. That will tell if there is a flaw inside the casting.
     
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  16. George Womack

    George Womack Y-Block King

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    The correct gasket for your gray manifold would be the top one in this picture, which would block that center hole. The bottom gasket is for a 196 engine.

    Intake gaskets.jpg
     
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  17. Mark Aycock

    Mark Aycock High Wheeler

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    Listen to George!
     
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  18. patrick r

    patrick r Binder Driver

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    George, What is the part # on that 152 gasket?
    Here is the commonly available 152 gasket.
    #MS9800
    [​IMG]


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  19. George Womack

    George Womack Y-Block King

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    Looking at my notes, I believe it is Victor MS15107X.
     
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