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Discussion in 'Triple Diamond Trucks' started by youric, Nov 29, 2019.
For the time being, anyone have a part number on a replacement for the sock filter?
The second draft turned out a lot better and boy howdy does it WORK!
Here's some pics:
On cold revs the needle on the gauge at the filter pops up to a little over 50psi and bobbles slightly, showing that the pressure relief valve is doing its little dance. I'll be shimming the spring to boost the max pressure to live between 55-65psi at the filter.
I'll be posting a more in-depth video about the install on "Bare Knuckle Binder" a youtube channel I recently started about working on old IH trucks and tractors, it'll just take me a little while to edit it and get it posted. Hoping to have it up this week.
You can check out the channel here and subscribe if you want: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOudR3IjXqRF1OYYJfNcqmQ
Overall, I'll say that this project was a great head-scratcher to design and to build, but more than that- it was so gratifying to see something take shape from nothing more than an idea we discussed here to being finally installed and functioning perfectly.
Kruser: I seriously can't wait to see what you come up with, hurry up! haha
Now that I've got this one done, I'll be moving on to designing a similar unit to upgrade the bypass filter on the BD240 in my S-120. I actually have two BG240 parts motors with the old factory full flow assemblies, but this adapter set-up is something I'm interested in chasing further with my other motors. The GRD flattie in my KB-2 is the one I anticipate the most difficulty with, will probably involve porting the block.. *bites nails feverishly*
Note: pay no attention to my zip-tie wiring harness running on the steering column, been mocking up some different ideas with wiring- it works great but looks terrible for the time being! However, not to toot my own horn, but the cable-activitated fuel shutoff valve visible behind the oil hoses in the second and third pics is a GREAT thing to add to your truck if you want to avoid ethanol gas evaporating in your carb while the truck is parked. Just pull the cable when you're parking the truck and let it starve out- Boom! No more corn dust in yer carb!
Wow. Looks great!
The video took a little longer to edit than I had anticipated, but I think it turned out pretty well.
I want one. I’m going to get a different bd308 on Sunday that has the full-flow cartridge system. Will something like this still work?
Nice job. Not something I will ever mess with but interesting and educational. Maybe someday on my dad's old L-160 I'll look into making the modifications.
Yes, definitely. Maybe not this exact adapter, but as long as you've got the footprint on the block (where the filter mounts) mapped out correctly something operating under the same principle would work. Plus, this filter system is much more effective than the factory full flow filter, but the factory full flow set up is definitely better than a bypass filter!
If you have a chance, pull the bypass filter off your old cracked block and post some pics of the mounting face. Then remove a coil wire or pull out your distributor rotor to prevent startup and crank the motor a few times to see which of the three holes on the block the oil spits out of. I'm curious to know if the filter on the BD308 is similar to the SD/BD/BG family of motors or something completely different. IIRC, the BD308 is an updated version of the BLD motors from the 40s and may have nothing in common with the other motors. Either way, an adapter is still possible.
Man that is some good looking craftsmanship and functional!!
I will add just 2 pointers. Low micron filters must match the system. Because of their higher filtering efficiency, they will have higher initial pressure drop from the tighter pores to squeeze whatever you're filtering through. The tradeoff is surface area, bigger filter for the volume can give lower pressure drop so in a a sense it is filter/canister size vs efficiency micron rating. It is always a good rule to know the oil pressure AFTER the filter because that is where the rubber meets the road in supplying sufficient oil to ALL bearings and cylinders. Regardless of the filter used, in a full flow set up you want to know if there's good post filter pressure or not. In an OEM set up, this is all engineered out with a spec'd filter from OEM suppliers. Slapping a high efficient low micron filter on an old system can be taxing the last out of an old pump and the pressure you're seeing may be also indicating bearing and engine wear that the pump is keeping up with. Relieve valves only set the ceiling on system pressure. Pump and engine wear set the floor. You can jack the floor up a bit with viscosity.
Converting bypass to full flow will start cleaning the engine with today's detergent oils. The deal with low micron rated filters on older tech and used engines is they may load up faster and shift into relief mode sooner than expected. For it's day, 90% removal of 30 micron dirt was good. I'd shoot for the 5-10 range more common with today's filters. 90% at the 2 micron level for your current engine is like a clean room filter in the furnace for a house full of German Shepherds.
Yes! Greg, those are both great points and I've got to say that there will definitely be a second part to this video.
I had hours of footage to sift through and by the time I was done editing it to the key points to get it under 30 minutes, there were so many points I still hadn't addressed.
Here's a few things I didn't mention, that fall under the points you brought up:
The post-filter pressure gauge was an immediate "Oh duh..." as soon as I fired up the motor. However, I didn't mention it in the video since the dash oil gauge is essentially measuring post-filter pressure now. I'll be putting a mech gauge on the return line in the motor bay regardless, since I'm always a little leery of those old King Seeley electrical gauges' accuracy...
I've got filters on hand for a "premature" filter change to see just how much is flying around in there (German Shepherd analogy completely appreciated). As far as the uber-filters- there are a myriad of sizes of filters compatible with the AMSOIL system I'm using, I spent quite a while trying to match up filters that wouldn't get the numbers upside down against the motor and the oil pump's ability. Of course I could have those calculations all wrong but this whole experiment is being very closely monitored for that exact reason. The oil pump and the motor both had a semi-recent rebuild and that's one reason I was willing to risk this conversion and also something that I failed to mention in the video. If anything starts getting wonky, I'm A-OK with 86-ing the high-efficiency bypass filter and sticking with just the single full flow. More to come!
It’s different than yours.
I expected it to look different, but it works on the exact same principle.
The pump and galley ports both meet in the larger cavity on the right (as it's facing the camera) and the cavity on the left is the sump return that the filter and valve empty into. You can see the relief valve and output going to the filter in the right-hand cavity. If memory serves, this looks exactly like a BLD bypass filter from the 40s. Once you get your other BD308, I'll DM you my address and if you want to ship me the base of this filter and a rubbing of the mounting surface on the block, I'll design an adapter block for you.
Wow, that is impressive. Beautiful job! And it works!
I have not done anything else with mine yet as I have more important tasks to deal with first. My truck is still stripped down to the rolling frame which I finally got painted last week. Now I can put my engine back in (LOL) and see how my filters and base will fit. I will update when I can.