Colonel Mustard - 1975 IH Travelall 150

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by MrKenmore, Jul 24, 2019.


  1. jeff campbell

    jeff campbell Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Some had them and some not.is it a 4brl ?
     
  2. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    It is a 4bbl.
     
  3. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    So I just did the automatic transmission pan swap and fluid change. Also changed the hoses at the front cooler and the inline filter. While the pan was off, I adjusted the set screw per the service manual. The play I had in the screw when I backed the locking nut off was about 2.5 turns which I believe is pretty good. I had a 1/4 and 3/8 torque wrench which proved to be very useful. It was tricky to tighten the lock nut to 30 ft lbs and not have the screw move.

    So as luck would have it, I slightly overfilled the transmission! Ugh. It was kinda one of the generally frustrating maintenance services where you're making a mess with everything. I'll need to suck out the extra fluid from the fill tube. It kinda reminded me of my first oil change as a kid. What a mess.

    I see why the I was leaking fluid so horribly. The old pan was a real mess. Distorted in some areas. Most of the bolts I could unscrew by hand! New Summit aluminum pan is dead flat which is nice. I also found one of the bolt holes was stripped. I'm sure this didn't help keep the fluid in. I'll have to keep my eye on it. The cast aluminum pan probably will help out but I may need to drop the pan again to make the repair. Ugh. New pan bolts torqued to 10 foot pounds. Nice and snug (but not too tight!). The pan had 12 point bolts so I needed a 5/16" 12 point 1/4" socket.

    Old filter had some crud on the bottom. Almost looked like RTV but not. Not sure what it is. No metal particles / shavings at all. The quick spin I took was very nice. Much improved shifting with the proper amount of fluid (DUH!!!).

    Now onto how I will get this pesky fluid out...........I do now have a drain plug. I am contemplating cracking it loose a little bit until I get about a pint out. It's a thought! May be easier than sucking fluid out the fill tube!!!
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2019
  4. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    New cast aluminum pan pictures
    20191006_173358.jpg
    20191006_173353.jpg
    20191006_173346.jpg
    New filter and hoses at aux cooler.
    20191006_173449.jpg
    Here's the crud that was on the old filter.
    20191006_173534.jpg
    All the old parts ready for the scrap heap.
    20191006_173554.jpg
     
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  5. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

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    One thing you could do is unhook one tranny line at the cooler,put it into a jug and have someone start it,put it into reverse and back into park quickly.I just don't remember what port is the out put side.Will probably make a mess also.How over full are you,just a slight bit will not matter.
     
  6. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

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    I will have to look at a few intakes,but whats the square plug in the intake in the picture
     
  7. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    I'm pretty sure the square plug is a vacuum port. I could be wrong. There is one on both sides. The fitting size would be small for a coolant port.
     
  8. jeff campbell

    jeff campbell Lives in an IH Dealership

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  9. jeff campbell

    jeff campbell Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Just LOOSEN bottm steel tranny line.no need to unhook it. It will drain.
     
  10. patrick r

    patrick r Binder Driver

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    The new pan has a drain plug. Simple.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
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  11. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Through some more research, I think those are coolant ports which were potentially used for the coolant temperature operated vacuum switches. Looks to be 3/8" NPT size. Good to know for the future. I could install the heater hose back there and also a new sender for the stock gauge (I'm running a Stewart Warner mechanical now).
     
  12. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Well, looks like I won't need to worry about removing the overfilled ATF cause the gasket is leaking like crazy in the front. Ugh. Need to find a replacement gasket. Although this does give me the opportunity to Heli-Coil the stripped out threads!!!
     
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  13. jeff campbell

    jeff campbell Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Seal both sides of gasket
    Let it cure a bit beore installing.
     
  14. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    I'm going to give MOPAR 2464324AC a shot I think.
     
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  15. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    New gasket has arrived! Looks good. Very robust.
    20191012_104319.jpg 20191012_104336.jpg 20191012_104258.jpg
     
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  16. java230

    java230 Farmall Cub

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    Awesome! Mine should be here tomorrow

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  17. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Somehow, it appears I have a shorty roof rack! I think it's supposed to extend further back.
    20191012_130047.jpg
     
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  18. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    New Stant 10328 7 PSI radiator cap. I know there's a big debate 7 PSI or 14 PSI.
    20191012_140211.jpg
    I did notice some crud unfortunately. Not too bad. May need a big flush.
    20191012_124700.jpg
     
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  19. java230

    java230 Farmall Cub

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    Are you going to use RTV on the "reusable" trans gasket?

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  20. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

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    On the cap I use 7 so I don't put a lot of pressure in my old rad,never had a problem,14 lets the the pressure go higher,means water wont boil till higher temp.On the roof rack,yours might be a scout one,picture is of my old travelall with correct rack.I have set of nos roof strips and gaskets.
    IMG_0824.JPG
     
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