-> Cheap Drive Shaft Tricks - Needed

Discussion in 'The Skunkwerks' started by jfoster, Sep 6, 2006.


  1. jfoster

    jfoster Farmall Cub

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    Ok, so I am pretty sure I read once upon a time that SOA/RS scout owners have made drive shafts from some certian yr/model ford because it has a longer slip yoke ....

    I thought it was on Jim Weeds build up page but I checked it and I guess not cause it just says buy a $300 piece :rolleyes:

    Anyway, any info on longer slip shafts for less money is appreciated ... whether they be junk yard finds or custom.
     
  2. budget76

    budget76 High Wheeler

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    don't quote me, but I think I remember reading about Wagoneer shafts, or full size bronco front that's shortned.
     
  3. jfoster

    jfoster Farmall Cub

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    Oh snap, I think it was full size bronco front shafts shortened up .... can anybody confirm?
     
  4. Chrispucci

    Chrispucci High Wheeler

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    You can build your own if you are really cheap!!

    I used a Scout II rear driveshaft and shortened it in my garage. It works for manuals but will most likey hit on an auto. AND it is not a CV style driveshaft. BUT I use it in place of a CV style shaft with fine results. Total cost $0.

    I have done and seen this done 50+ times so I know it works, just not the best idea...

    Here goes:
    1) Grind off the yoke very carefully. I use my chop saw and just spin the shaft under the blade and whack it a few times 'til it pops off. The yoke fits into the inside diamter of the driveshaft and is welded on.

    2) Make your best guess as to what length you want you new shaft. Measure 3 times - cut about and 1" less then you think.

    3) Fit yoke back on and check overall length again.

    4) Cut again.

    5) Fit yoke back into shaft and make it is square as possible.

    6) Carefully weld the yoke back on being as even as possible to keep everything in balance.

    7) Grind off the high spots.

    8) Install and test it out!
     
  5. corncrasher

    corncrasher Farmall Cub

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    Full size bronco shaft has a cv which people usually want but you have to get a matching yoke for your t-case. It also will probably hit your tranny if you have an auto.
     
  6. jfoster

    jfoster Farmall Cub

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    Damn, I do have an auto ... a 345 with a 727 and a ??? single stick.

    This came up because my boss was talking about going RS on his SOA jeep ... but that the local shop said he would need 10"+ slip so he would have to buy a $300 drive shaft ...

    And this concerned me because I am also wanting to RS my SOA scout and add 4" springs ... but won't have money for a $300 shaft also ....

    He is running a T19 trans and we're both on full width axles ... any suggestions for either of us are appreciated.

    Chrispucci- I'll run the rear shaft idea by him since he has a manual. Thanks
     
  7. corncrasher

    corncrasher Farmall Cub

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    It is possible to run a larger shaft with an auto you just have to check out your rig and see. A friend of mine did it and he had to do a little grinding on the tranny case where the pan bolts up and it is working fine. You also may not need that much slip yoke. You have to get a tape measure and figure out exactly what you need. My slip yoke moves very little and my frontend flexes a lot.
     
  8. Sugarbear

    Sugarbear Farmall Cub

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    Another cheep idea is to go to the junkyard and get a front GM driveshaft (think full size blazer) you can use the double knuckle off of there too.
     
  9. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    I've also heard of tractor PTO shafts being welded to the stock yokes.
    That's a lot of slip!!
    And using 2 sizes of square tubing where 1 slips inside the other like a reese hitch.
    Can only be used slow and off road!!
     
  10. jfoster

    jfoster Farmall Cub

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    We discussed both those ideas at the shop the other day. He wanted to pull the pto off his dads tractor and try that out :D

    Am I correct in thinking that you always want your shaft to be in the middle of its slip while at rest?
    thanks
     
  11. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    It really depends on the suspension.
    I run stock scout springs so they are flat.
    Meaning in theory i should be able to get the same flex up and down depending on the shackles and bump stops and limiting straps.

    Stiff lift springs with arch will normally compress better then it will extend.
    But it all depends on the spring and the set up.

    The best way is to measure the distance at rest, hanging and then compressed(normally by raising the opposite corner).

    The length of the spring also makes a difference in flex and if the locating pin is actually centered in the spring.
     
  12. Carl Howard

    Carl Howard Farmall Cub

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    If you do any welding on a drive shaft when you are finished and installed if it's out of balance you can do a trial and error method by fixing flat pieces of lead to the shaft with hose clamps. It's time consuming but will work. At least it did for me.. I used two hose clamps and just kept rotating them until I got rid of the vibration. I'm still thanking grandpa for that one.
     
  13. Bill USN-1

    Bill USN-1 Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Or just empty a tube of grease into the middle of the tube prior to welding it together and it will self balance! :D

    So I've been told.
     
  14. 73scoutdude

    73scoutdude Farmall Cub

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    i just got a job at a driveline shop, and i dont think you should try to make your own unless you have the machine to balance and weld it properly. a guy brought one into the shop the other day and told us his dad made it in his garage. we put it in the machine and it didnt run strait. its a tedious process. i would leave it to the pros.
     
  15. jfoster

    jfoster Farmall Cub

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    Maybe if it's a hwy rig, but this is a trail machine .... so as long as it doesn't break and it's cheap a little vibration at speed doesn't bother me.
     
  16. bulzeye

    bulzeye Farmall Cub

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    i thought i read somewhere on pirate that the old full size blazer shafts bolt right up?
     
  17. larboc

    larboc Binder Driver

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    If you use a 77 and down blazer front shaft it will bolt right in with a bronco output yoke. It will be a little close, I took an inch out of mine when I swapped in fullsize axles from 76 blazer. I think I probbalby could have gotten away with it stock though, espeacially if I hadn't cut and turned so much that the pinion points exactly at the t-case.

    Honestly, if you have a chopsaw and a welder it isn't that hard to shorten one. Tack it back together while it is bolted in so you can spin it by hand and look for outof round. Look for driveshaft shortening 101 in the general pirate forum.
     
  18. jfoster

    jfoster Farmall Cub

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    Is that different than a '77 and older truck?


    I found the info from Jim that I was refering to earlier:
    The front drive shaft will have to be modified to handle the added movement of the rear shackle arrangement. You will need at least 4” of spline movement in the slip yoke. We use a slip yoke assembly from a late model Ford drive shaft, which has the 4” of travel and measures 8” from the center of the U-joint to the end seal. Measure the drive shaft length with the Scout at rest; you should now have 2 3/4” of travel left in the slip yoke.
     
  19. binderbound

    binderbound High Wheeler

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    If its trail only and just the front, I say go square tube. Bomb proof, super cheap, unlimited slip. The PTO shaft idea is good to but that stuff gets spendy when you buy it in any real length.
     
  20. jfoster

    jfoster Farmall Cub

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    What is that shaft like on the road? It's a trail machine but I don't want a 40mph speed limit or anything ... I don't want to trailer it to and from the gas station :rolleyes: ... but it will never make any trips of any distance on road.
     

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