Charging/Starting System Upgrades All at Once

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Hueste, Feb 24, 2019.


  1. Hueste

    Hueste Farmall Cub

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    Ok so my brain hurts from looking at this but i offer for review my kinda wonky wiring diagram.
    scout wiring Vol 1.jpg
    I am a little confused on the idiot light, is it literally just in series on the exciter wire? Does there need to be no ground or is that how it lights up when there is a failure of the charging system?

    Also, any thoughts or reccomendations on where should i pull from for the voltmeter?
     
  2. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    The idiot light functions as a two way street. When the alternator is off and the key is on, the circuit is grounded on the alternator side. When it starts spinning, it's no longer grounded. So yes. It is just in series. Nice schematic by the way! I forget.....are you retaining the original wiring inside the cab or is that replaced? I ask because the circuit for the idiot light is on the I3 terminal of the ignition switch which is fed via fusible link. I would replace that with a ATC style fuse.

    EDIT - The idiot light should not come off the fuse block as your schematic shows. It should be off of the I3 terminal. I3 is not powered during start or in accessory (key turned counterclockwise for radio).
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2019
  3. Hueste

    Hueste Farmall Cub

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    I have an all new kwikwire 14cir wiring harness. with the fuse panel under the dash. My plan is to pull a length of the Exciter wire back through the dash and wire in the Idiot light and resistor then out to the exciter post on the Battery Isolator.
     
  4. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    OK. Not sure how the Kwik Wire kit does the ignition wiring. Did you post their schematic?
     
  5. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    An FYI. These are really GM based drawings / details but there is some useful info on how our ignition switch operates (a GM component remember).
    GM Ignition Switch.jpg mid80s_gm_starter_wiring.jpg
     
  6. Hueste

    Hueste Farmall Cub

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    here is the Kwikwire PDF capture online:
    kwikwire online.JPG
    need to run out to the shop and grab the one that came with the kit, it's a lot better but probably going to be hard to read on here.
     
  7. Hueste

    Hueste Farmall Cub

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    SO should the Voltmeter come from the the output of the ALT?
     
  8. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    IMHO, your voltmeter should come from where (per your nice schematic) the alternator battery lug and the starter batter lug convene. This should also be where your alternator sense wire goes back to. I know things are getting more complicated with your dual battery set up and to be honest, I am not that familiar with that type of arrangement.

    EDIT-After looking at the schematic for the isolator, I would say voltmeter should go to #1 on the isolator. You could really grab the 12V anywhere and be satisfied but if you wanted to get the best reading with least voltage drop, go with #1. I don't know if you'll really need this level of accuracy. I see the sense wire goes to #1 as well which makes sense.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2019
  9. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    You may as well run the FSM's bench test on your starter just to make sure it's healthy. Unless it is fairly new.
     
  10. Hueste

    Hueste Farmall Cub

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    Starter is what came with the scout, I actually do have a brand spanking new Solenoid on another starter that came off my Wagonmaster.
     
  11. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    I was just referring to doing a voltage-drop test as described in the FSM. Here is a thread showing the results of me doing it with my starter a couple years back. It's a basic test of 'health' for the starter. "Bench test" might have been overselling it, but your starter does need to be on a bench so....

    http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/...tarter-solenoid-kit.128734/page-3#post-935281
     
  12. Hueste

    Hueste Farmall Cub

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    So i got everything wired up, at least to the point where she fires up no issue.

    A couple of things of note:

    1) the idiot light is on when the ignition is on and while the motor is running, would this be becuase the alt might not be sensing and not charging?
    2) i ended up putting the voltmeter to #1 on the isolator, i am assuming i should switch that to something that is only powere when the key is in the "run" position. although i use the battery selector as a cutoff switch, it would still be best if it was keyed run i think.

    there are some instructions to test on the isolator install sheets, i hope to get through those this weekend while i have a little help at the house.
     
  13. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Check your voltage with a multi meter. 13.8V should be if the alt is running correctly. 12.6V if it's spinning and doing nothing. Can you confirm the terminal you have the idiot light circuit hooked up to on the alt?
     
  14. sabercat

    sabercat Farmall Cub

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    check the way the light is wired it goes wire from alt to light to POSITIVE (NOT GROUND)
     
  15. Hueste

    Hueste Farmall Cub

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    I have it hooke through the Exciter wire in the harness through the isolator to the "L" on the alt.

    I just cut the exciter wire and spliced the light in. it goes from terminal block to the light to the isolator to the Alt.
     
  16. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    I'm not sure why the alternator idiot light circuit would even need to be involved with the isolator. Try bypassing the isolator to see if the characteristics of the light change. What I would also do is check the excite lead on your wiring harness. It should have all the correct open/closed characteristics of I3 terminal. This means it only has power in ACC and run. Nothing on start.
     
  17. pwschuh

    pwschuh Farmall Cub

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    Thanks for letting us step through the process with you. Once you get the loose ends tied up and everything working to your satisfaction, please post a pic of the final wiring diagram that represents the finished set-up.
     
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