Carb help???

Discussion in 'Southwest Scouts of Oklahoma' started by Taylor K, Jan 10, 2009.


  1. Taylor K

    Taylor K Farmall Cub

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    Ok, for starters, I have had very little carb experience. I was having carb trouble (engine would have a hard time starting and would stall randomly), so I had a friend that knows a little(much more than me) about carbs help me replace it with a holley 500 (I believe). My friend has since moved to Houston, and this new carb is not working right. The new carb is a 2 bbl with an electric choke.

    Ok, so what is happening now is:

    The good:
    Engine starts clean and strong (although it is pretty rich).

    The bad:
    As RPM's increase, the engine begins to "bog" down. If I give it full throttle, the engine will die. I am not sure if it is starving for gas or if it is flooding or what. I was told to check vacuum hoses, but they are all connected. I have searched the forums and online and cannot find my exact issue so that I could try to troubleshoot.

    I do not even know where to start! Please help! :confused:
     
  2. Mike Scherr

    Mike Scherr Farmall Cub

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    It starts and runs strong.

    For how long?

    Make sure your choke is opening as the trucks starts and warms up. If it is not, and the truck is "warmed up", as you try and increase throttle you are essentially "choking off" the air supply for the motor. 10-15 seconds after engine start, blip the throttle and see if the choke opens a little. 20 seconds later try it again. The choke should open up as the engine warms up.

    If it is not, make sure you have a KEYED 12V power supply to the choke. When the truck is started the 12V heats a coil, opening the choke.

    Good luck
     
  3. ScoutFam

    ScoutFam Farmall Cub

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    Need a lot more info. A pic would help if you can't identify what carb you have. It sounds like the way my carb was before I changed the jets. In my case the jets were way to small. And the rich smell was present. If you have never been inside a carb I would suggest that you go to your local Auto zone or equal and get a book on holley carbs. It is there and talks basics first. Read man and then we can help you better.
     
  4. Taylor K

    Taylor K Farmall Cub

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    First off, I really appreciate your help!

    I believe it will run without stopping. I have let it run for about 20 minutes, but it does not get any better. I thought that maybe it was starving for fuel, so i changed the jets that were in the carb to larger ones that I pulled out of the other carb, but it did not change anything.

    It is too dark to take pictures tonight, but I can take a picture tomorrow.

    I am pretty sure that it is just like this one:
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Taylor K

    Taylor K Farmall Cub

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    Ok, here are the photos of my carb...any ideas?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Mike Scherr

    Mike Scherr Farmall Cub

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    So does the choke open?
     
  7. ScoutFam

    ScoutFam Farmall Cub

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    Mike, correct me if I am wrong but that is the 2300? As to the jets what was in there and what did you put in? the numbers are on the side of the jets. I agree with mike that you need to do a visual on the choke. make sure it is opening and closing properly. Then go through and do all the correct adjustments. If you don't have the book that I suggested do a search online to find a manual that will help you out. Most of the adjustments are not screws and such they involve measurements and bending rods to the correct positions. you also have to look at the things that feed the carb such as fuel filter, fuel pump, and so on. I had a bad fuel pump that gave the same symptoms as a bad or miss adjusted carb. It takes time but you really have to trouble shoot by the numbers or you will be throwing parts at your rig in vain. Also at the begining of this thread you mentioned that you thought the carb was a 500. Is this original or after market? if it is after market it could be a 500cfm and that is too large for the scouts. the orginals are 350cfm.
     
  8. Mike Scherr

    Mike Scherr Farmall Cub

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    Man, I do not know for sure. I have a policy of taking Holly carbs off and tossing them in the scrap pile. It looks about the same size and shape as the 2300. But the screw on top of the bowl is for adjusting the float, I do not think you can adjust the float on the 2300 from the outside.

    Another thing, I see it has a hard line connected directly to the carb. I wonder if there is still a fuel filter. So if it will idle but not run at high RPM the fuel filter could be clogged, or if no fuel filter, needle and seat or jets may have some blockage.

    Taylor, if you think you might have some vacume leaks, an easy way to check is to spray some B-12 or carb cleaner around the base of the carb and each hose connection and cross shaft. If the RPM changes, that is the location of your vacume leak.

    Update?
     
  9. Taylor K

    Taylor K Farmall Cub

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    I do not know the model number, it was just what the guy who sold it to me said. From what he told me, this was the original and he bought a different carb with a manual choke so that he could get it smogged in CA.

    Now, as for the choke opening: I just had an opportunity to take a look at it this evening, and after about 15 to 30 seconds, the choke opened all the way up no problem, but as soon as I gave it throttle, it would almost die. It seemed like it was starving for gas...

    Any ideas moving forward? I know I need to go through try to troubleshoot, I just dont really know where to start or what to check first.

    Thanks for your help!
     
  10. Taylor K

    Taylor K Farmall Cub

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    Tomorrow after work I will take a look at the fuel filter. I know that there is a fuel filter, and it may be clogged. Also, thanks for the tip with carb cleaner around vacuum lines and around the base. I will check that tomorrow also.

    Thanks for your help!
     
  11. Taylor K

    Taylor K Farmall Cub

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    OK, I tried the carb cleaner around the base and around the vacuum hoses. There is a very slight RPM change around one of the vacuum lines. Does that mean that I need to replace the hose or what?

    I tried adjusting the float with the bolt at the top of the carb, and it seems to be a little better but now when I give it hard throttle it will start to bog and RPMs slow then it picks back up to strong RPM...

    Any Ideas or advice?

    Thanks again!
     
  12. Mike Scherr

    Mike Scherr Farmall Cub

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    First make sure the clamp on the hose is tight. Or put a clamp on if there is not one. Relpace the hose if it looks old or cracked. Vacume leaks will case a lot of these problems.
     
  13. Taylor K

    Taylor K Farmall Cub

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    Tonight I checked all the hoses again and added one clamp where there was not one... it is worse than it was...not sure how that is possible, but now it will idle down and die whereas before it would idle down to a steady pace. Would you recommend just buying a new carb and trying to start from scratch? Or have it towed somewhere for a professional to look at?

    Thanks,
    Taylor
     
  14. Mike Scherr

    Mike Scherr Farmall Cub

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    I can't advise you to spend any money on anything. There must be a simple solution. Have you checked your timing?

    Can no one in the Tulsa area swing by and give the Tayor K Scout a look at?
     
  15. Taylor K

    Taylor K Farmall Cub

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    Mike, I might end up just taking after you and taking this POS off and buying something new!!! What kind of carb would you recommend and from where?

    Thanks
     
  16. yellowssII

    yellowssII Farmall Cub

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    it has been a while since i messed with the holley carbs but is it possible the power valve in the carbs is bad. I used to blow them pretty frequently especially if it backfired through the carb when cold. If they blow it will tend to flood out. I my be way off but may be worth a shot
     
  17. Mike Scherr

    Mike Scherr Farmall Cub

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    A bad power valve will cause it to run poorly but not stall.

    I am sure this problem can be fixed with some simple adjustments.

    Used Motorcraft from the Junkyard. I will get you some part numbers later today. I would not drop $300 on a new 2 barrel. I think some on here fuel inject for a couple hundred.
     
  18. Taylor K

    Taylor K Farmall Cub

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    Ok, so I figured out what probably my main problem is... this carb is a 2300, but it is a 500 cfm not a 350... What do I do now? Can my 304 handle this carb? If so, what jet size should I get? Or should I scrap it and start with something else?

    Thanks!
     
  19. ScoutFam

    ScoutFam Farmall Cub

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    Unfortunately I have to say that you will have a lot of trouble getting the 500cfm to run right. There are lots of engine calculator sites on the web and I have run the IH 304 numbers on several of them and it always comes up 350cfm. Here is the problem in layman's terms, cause that is what I am, the amount of draw that the engine has to pull air through the carb is limited by the displacement, stroke, and so on. If the carb is required to pull 500cfm to operate properly and atomize the fuel air mix then if you are only pulling 350cfm then it just can't properly atomize the fuel. Kind of like trying to air up a truck tire with bike pump in reverse. There are lots of sources for 350cfm 2300s and 2210s you can even get some from checker if you order them online. Check locally first and see what you can find. If not PM me and I can give you the number to Coonrod's and he has lots of carbs laying around.
     
  20. Bill Bennett

    Bill Bennett High Wheeler

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    When the float level was 'adjusted', did you remove the brass screw on the passenger side of the float bowl? The fuel level in the bowl should be just 'at' or slightly 'below' the bottom of the hole with the truck sitting on a level surface with the engine 'running'. Don't drop the little gasket on the back side of that screw. Replace the screw.
    The picture of the carb could be either the 350 cfm or the 500 cfm 2300. The 350 cfm carb will have the #7448 on the front of the air horn. Looking down into the carb past the choke flap, the venturi diameter will be 1 3/16". The 350 cfm carb probably came with #61 or #62 main jets. This size carb is just a bit overcapacity for the stock 304 engine (but the older style 'side fill' Ford 350 cfm works well on my 304!)
    You should change the gasket under the carb to the thicker Holley gasket with the heat shield extention under the fuel bowl. That will help control vapor lock and fuel percolation when the engine is hot.
    The 500 cfm 2300 carb venturi diameter will be 1 3/8". Better used for circle rack racing!
    Bill Bennett 68 Travelall 1100 4X4 304
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2009

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