C-series heater box... Seam sealant?

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Gunfighter97, Jan 5, 2020.


  1. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Binder Driver

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    I've pulled apart the heater from my 65 1100 and have had it sand blasted to remove the majority of the rust/roll brush paint left from PO. I noticed a hard sealant during disassembly that I thought might be hardened silicone from PO and didn't pay much attention to it. Now that I'm brushing out the rest of the rust I've noticed it in several areas other than where it was mainly (around the heater core). I think that at the time I thought what was on the heater core (mix of jb weld, silicon, and bicycle inner tube) was the same as this other stuff, I'm realizing now its not, the po virus was crumbling, this is too but its still hard, albeit cracked and gone in some areas. So I guess I'm trying to figure out if/what was used here. Mainly in areas that would be a hole for air to escape through. Most of it appears to be about past its expiration date, so if its supposed to be there I'll need to replace it with something. You can best see the stuff in the first pic, its down in the seams pointed to along the spot welds, i also removed a good amount inside as collateral damage getting the core out.
    On another note, anyone have a source for good quality rattle can paint in the original gloss grey color? [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  2. sdhachey

    sdhachey Farmall Cub

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    I used seam sealer on a recent project (good quality stuff from an auto body supply shop) and it's a much better choice than typical caulking or whatever. I don't see why it wouldn't work well for the heater box but others may know better. For color, the same auto body supply shop could set you up, but for a smaller piece like this, you'd be fine using common Rustoleum or whatever is equivalent. I'm interested to see how it turns out... I think the color on my 1968 heater box is black and also in need of the same treatment.
     
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  3. RinTX

    RinTX High Wheeler

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  4. patrick r

    patrick r Binder Driver

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    If you choose to use a urethane product it will be very hard to remove later if needed. On mine I did not replace the “putty”. You could use plumbers putty. It wont harden but is not paintable. I wasn’t worried about small leaks. I did use some neoprene as padding in areas that the core might rub with vibration though. You can get it in the plumbing dept.


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  5. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Binder Driver

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    I may be suffering from a lack of sleep here, is there a reason I'm missing why I would want to remove it easily? Also this sounds like a stupid idea to me, but would jb weld work? Now that I've said that it sounds worse, but I have had good luck chipping it off everything the PO put it on. I do plan on painting it myself using my old pine wood car painting skills. I'm trying to find a part number or something for the grey color to find something close/the same in a rattle can since I don't have a paint gun.
    sdhachey, you may find this usefull: https://forums.ihpartsamerica.com/showthread.php?t=14173
    This is my write up on the IHPA forum, its been abandoned for about a year since I've been focusing on the rest of my truck, I'm looking to get this part of the project wrapped up.

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  6. wjajr

    wjajr Binder Driver

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    The sealant between the heater core and inside of heater box should be something that will stay supple, can be rolled out into a long snake like we used to do with clay in 1 st grade, and that snake is used to seal the space between core and box to provide maximum air through the core. That box mixes cold and hot air and if there are leaks between the two chambers, the heater/ defroster won't perform well. While you are at it renew any flap door seals with closed cell foam. See Detroit Muscle for foam. They don't have kits for IH, but I bet they would sell you some to cut your own seals from that is OEM quality. https://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/

    I used electrical sealing clay that is use to seal the cable from service drop on side of house into top of meter trim. Its gray can be worked onto any shape, and is stable. The other material I used, but now think it won't hold up to 190* heat is 3M strip-calk #08578, comes in 20 yards per box cut to one foot lengths; this is the sticky stuff used to seal plastic sheeting to inner door under door card to seal out weather, and or seam seal and openings like where antenna lead comes into cockpit of truck.

    I painted my heater box with Dupli-Color Engine Enamel; Ford semi gloss black. I used this color for all black painted parts like power steering pumps, fans etc under hood, and under dash items such as brake & clutch pedal, heater ducting, seat frame etc.
     
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  7. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Binder Driver

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    Anyone ever use, or see a point to use a liner inside the box? In case of future leaks? I read one thread a long time ago where somebody mentioned lining the bottom inside of the box with bed liner post paint to prevent damage in case of a coolant leak.

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  8. Dana Strong

    Dana Strong Lives in an IH Dealership

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    If coolant has the correct antifreeze, it should prevent corrosion in the short run and also give off a smell to alert you to the leak, so I doubt a liner would be worth the trouble. Seems to me that my 800's heater box used closed cell foam around the core to prevent air flow there, but I could be mistaken.
     
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  9. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Binder Driver

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    PO's antifreeze definitely did not prevent corrosion lol. That will hopefully be fixed though :)

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  10. superfishyall

    superfishyall Farmall Cub

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    Here are some products that worked well for me on another project that may be useful. 2020-01-07 12.37.44.jpg 2020-01-07 12.37.52.jpg
     

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