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Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by bdgn01, Aug 1, 2011.
Yep, those are them.
Can you guys supply a product number or a link? I'd like to get a better look at these (and I don't know what I should be searching for).
I went to A to Z fabrication out of Arizona for a spindle and they sent it quick. It wasnt cheap but the thing is way over built and Its gonna work great for my rear bumper as soon as I get time to get it going! I have the same design as you guys with the "A" frame swinging out off the main bumper. Great pics by the way! Best of luck with the rest of your truck!
Holy crap, Joe, that's PERFECT. How do you like it? Any feedback?
Like I said, not anytime to install it yet. Its just a heavy ***** piece of metal. I was worried about sag and the possibility of something splitting the wed on a unit that was not heavy duty enough. Until I ordered the first one I didnt know if I was going to need to get two and do a top mount above the light and a lower mount. After getting the lug in the mail I decided one was enough!
I think I'm reconsidering a face-mounted hinge for the one Joe suggested. I've got some extra clearance with a 2" body lift, and we can always drop the bumper on the mounts for more, but we're going to have to do some measuring first to see if it's feasible or not. Hmmm...
So, talking about this with Brian over the weekend, we came upon a possible solution for mounting the new hinge Joe suggested on the face of the bumper as opposed to the top. For those just catching up, the geometry of the bumper we designed was meant for a face-mounted hinge, and if we switched the orientation of the hinge now, we'd probably have to knock a good portion of the assembly apart, add some newer (longer) stock, and tack everything back together again, as well as raise the bumper mounts to lower the bumper on the body.
What we came up with is a C-shaped cradle with holes drilled to accept the hinge sleeve, welded to the face of the bumper. I'd add an additional tab to fit halfway for more support, making sure the top of the hinge has enough clearance to swing freely. This way we can keep the geometry the same. What do you think?
Goes to show you what a few homebrews can do to squeeze some ideas out of the folds of our brains.
did you guys order the new hinge yet? The idea looks good. I like your drawing! It would have taken me a million years to do that good of a 3d piece of work! Remember the diameter of the stationary shaft is less than that of the top half that moves. I would get rid of the top "C" channel and just have the bottom stationary part there with 2 "C" channels around it. If you make a wrap for the top portion I would expect rubbing on the two parts but in the long run that maybe a good thing to keep the stress level down on the whole piece of equipment??
Keep up the good work home brewers!
Ok, I ordered the new hinge on Tuesday, and hopefully it'll be here next week. When I get it in, I'll update the thread with new info.
Beefy. Daddy likes.
I was back in Chestertown today to work on the bumper with Brian after a holiday hiatus. When last we left, I decided to ditch the hinge we originally bought and ordered a new top-mount spindle design (see above), which we planned to adapt and fit to the bumper face. The first thing we did was bolt the new one on and do some test-fitting to see how things will line up.
Allowing for the height of the spindle, we decided to move it outboard of the tailgate by 1/2" and scoot it down as much as possible. This means the swingarm no longer sits on the face of the bumper. Now, when it's closed, the bottom of the swingarm aligns roughly with the top of the bumper. (We couldn't simply mount the spindle through the top of the bumper, because the spindle is only 4" tall and the bumper is 6"). The first thing we did was reduce the length of the clevis mounts we're using to hold the spindle by about 2.5" with a saw (you can see their length in the photo posted above this one).
With that done, we trimmed the end of the swingarm to fit the round weldable hinge sleeve and tacked it into place. Then we pulled the bumper off and mocked it up on the garage floor to eyeball everything.
What we found was that moving the hinge further outboard moved the swingarm offcenter by about 1", so we pondered this over an IPA and delicious steak (thanks, Brian!) and then got to grinding the swingarm triangle off the bar. After we cleaned up the edges, we moved it 1" and tacked it back together then mocked it up again to check the fit.
One surprise benefit to the new design is that it frees up the face of the bumper to mount a Hi-Lift directly under the swingarm, as opposed to the swingarm itself. So we tacked in two square rests and made provisions to drill holes for mounting bolts through the bumper.
So the plan from here is that Brian is going to take the two parts to his welder and have him burn everything together. Then we'll bring the Scout and the parts, mount the bumper, and get the swingarm just the way we want it before welding it on for good.
At first I was concerned about the jack plate, but realized you have a hitch below the bumper, which will protect the plate.
I'm looking forward to seeing it back from the welder and installed!
Just to update everyone, here's the original plan from early last year:
And here's the new plan, based on lots of mocking up, head-scratching, conferencing, beer drinking, emailing, and purchase of new parts:
Measurements on the second draft are approximate until we get everything finish welded and in place. I'll do final measurements when it's completely assembled and post it here.
At long last, an update! I've been able to clear some time out to get back over the bay to Brian's place, where my bumper is now welded together and taking up space in his garage. I'm heading out there on Sunday to have some beefy L-shaped gussets welded to the outboard sides of the truck frame. Then we'll measure everything five more times and weld modified clevis mounts to the face of the bumper. Finally the hinge pin will get welded into the clevis mounts and this thing should be ready for test assembly. Here's a teaser shot Brian took of the swingarm:
The other thing I'm going to have him do while we're there is weld in seatbelt bungs for a shoulder belt installation. I bought these here:
They're 2" steel, drilled for 1/2-20 thread.
As always, I'll shoot a bunch of pictures and write the whole thing up. Stay tuned!
Today I headed back to Chestertown for more bumper work with Brian.
The plan was to finish up drilling the last few holes for mounts, get everything tacked into place, and bring it all over to the welder's to have him burn everything in permanently.
The assemblies are back from the welder, and they look great. Only a few minor spots of burn-through here and there, stuff that can be fixed with a small amount of bondo and some sandpaper.
We pulled the stock bumper off, put the new one on, and did some test-fitting for the jack mounts. With some silicon padding down on the cradles, we marked off holes for mounting bolts and drilled them through. Then we revisited the spare tire mount, drilling holes for mounting bolts on the plate, then mocking up the arm and re-measuring vertical distance. Both sets of bolts I'd bought from Fastenal were too long, so we had to hit the local True Value to find stock in the proper length.
Once that was sorted out, we noticed the standoff was 2" too long, so that got chopped down to size. Then the plate was marked and tacked onto the standoff, and we tacked mounting bolts in place on everything.
After lunch, we were still waiting for the welder to get back to us, so we busted out the grinders and cleaned up the welds a bit. Once I smooth it out with a flap wheel it'll be ready for bondo, and then some etching primer.
The welder was AWOL until the late afternoon, which screwed up our timetable, so we dicked around with some other stuff before calling it a day. First up was drilling holes for seatbelt bungs, which look real pretty and will be even prettier when they're welded and painted.
Then we thought about tracing the power lead from the fuel sender back to the dashboard, and got as far as pulling the dashboard valance panel off and mucking around with the gauge when I came to my senses and realized I needed to be on the road in an hour. This job can wait.
So, I packed up my gear and hit the road for home. As I was approaching the Bay Bridge, I hit the first in a series of rainshowers and found that my wipers were dead. They have been working reliably up until now, so maybe our wiggling the BHC made them angry or something. I stopped in to the local K-Mart and found some Rain-X, applied that liberally to the windshield, said a few Hail Marys, and continued home. That stuff is <I>awesome</I>.
So, stay tuned, and hopefully next time we'll have something swinging on a hinge...
I got tired of having it clank around in the back of the truck, so I took a little time last night to mount my jack on the bumper. I cut some strips of silicone bedliner material for the cradle tabs, laid the jack down and mounted it tight. I'm going to need to find a velcro strap to hold the jack handle in place and a good way of locking it to the bumper (where do I find a short loop of rubber-coated security wire that I can padlock?)
Plans are to get back over the river sometime in July to finish up all the welds, and then worry about paint. I had a ballpark quote of $300 to powdercoat the whole thing, but I don't have that kind of scratch right now, so I need to come up with other options. I don't have access to a full-size compressor, so I can't spray it myself. Any suggestions?
I saw this today, might work well for a bumper, but Ive not tried it.
Looks great! Quick question, did you box in the 2"x6" C channel or leave it as a C? I'm fabricaring a bumper now and not sure if I want to box the whole bumper or just weld 2"x2" square bar stock for the mounts to connect it to the frame. Thanks.
BayDog, the 2" x 6" is actually box steel, not a C channel. We cut the ends off to taper them and welded pieces back on to close everything off.