Bright Lights type kit and Hella H4 install questions

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Johnnycobra, Apr 16, 2018 at 1:07 PM.


  1. Johnnycobra

    Johnnycobra Farmall Cub

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    Was going to install my relay kit for headlights that I got off of amazon, along with my Hella H4 lights.
    Ran into two things that are slowing me down:
    1) the H4 wiring harness bulb connectors are too large to pass through the inner fender holes.
    2)also, in reading some threads, it is suggested to get 12V power direct from the alternator. This actually changes how i originally wanted to run hte harness - using the driver's OEM headlight connector to trigger the relays.
    3) I am too lazy to grind the 1/4" around the bucket needed to get the hella's rubber boot to get through. It is a case of having the right tool.

    for question one, I am using a step drill bit to enlarge the hole 2 sizes to get the new harness connectors through?
    for #2, thinking i will trigger the relays from the passenger headlight bucket, use the alternator stud for power and mount the relays on the backside of the inner fender "header" next to where the hole is for AC lines. Is using the passenger side and alternator the "best" way?
    for #3, what would be the best tool to shave the entire bucket opening just enough to let the hella boot pass? dremel seems like it will take forever.
    angle grinder seems ridiculous.
     
  2. BO185

    BO185 Y-Block King

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    1) you can unpin them with a little screw driver. Put wires threw hole then push wires back in connector. Take a picture before you depin reinstall in correct hole.
    2) You can run them right off the battery. They won't draw enough anyway to matter IMO and your amp gauge will still work correctly.
    3)I wouldn't be lazy.
     
  3. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Okay. So you know that triggering (switching on) the relays vs. "powering" them are two different things, correct? There is nothing wrong with using the headlight socket (from either side) as the 'switch' for the headlight. It's very simple and keeps the wiring shorter.

    As for tapping the power for the relays, getting the power off the "BATT" terminal of the alternator is probably the best and simplest way to do it. It also keeps the wires shorter, assuming you are talking about having the relays on the passenger side side of the engine compartment. But as B0185 says, if you run the power from the battery, it probably won't hurt anything. The amp gauge will still work correctly---won't be fooled by anything. And as long it's just headlights, well, you have been running headlights through the system for years anyway. What is the wattage of the old headlights compared to the new? Probably not that much difference.

    For your #3. I'm not sure what you mean. I ran Hellas for a while. I don't remember any extra grinding or whatever being necessary.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2018 at 6:40 PM
  4. Johnnycobra

    Johnnycobra Farmall Cub

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    Thanks all, the wiring harness i have would be a little short to run from the alt and trigger off the drivers side oem headlamp socket, so ill trigger it off the passenfer side. No big deal, but i was dead set on triggering from the closest socket and running from the battery itself. That is until i saw how tight i was for space to mount the relays. Im kind of glad i need to mount on the passenger side for room

    As for the hellas not fitting through the bucket, ill try a little more lube, but the rubber boot wont seat through the bucket. Needing to grind from what i can tell.
     
  5. Av8ing1

    Av8ing1 Farmall Cub

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    I mounted my relays on the passenger side and powered from the alternator. Used a small fuse block mostly for future add on items and triggered the relays from the passenger side headlight plug. Worked out well for me.
     

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  6. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore High Wheeler

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    Johnnycobra- Have you upgraded your wiring at all? Do you still have the stock configuration? If you do, I would recommend not coming off the battery directly as you would now be imposing additional load on ammeter and battery recharge circuit. You should come off the alternator or common junction post if you have one. Take a look at the path of how the battery gets replenished by the alternator. It's quite a roundabout path.
     
  7. Patrick Morris

    Patrick Morris Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Well, as I was saying above, use of the alternator is most important when adding new things to the system. But in this particular case, you really aren't adding much additional load to the system. You are just replacing bulbs with slightly higher-wattage bulbs. The typical sealed beam headlight is about 50w on low-beam. The QH bulbs that come with the standard Hella lights are just 55w on low-beam. And of course the old headlight circuit is now powering only the relays, one at a time. I don't know what current a relay draws, but I don't think it's much.

    So I guess my point is just that doing the bright-lites re-wire wouldn't put a significant additional load on the BHC, ammeter, etc. However, as a rule, the alternator is still the best power source for any additional electrical components.
     
  8. fredsterra

    fredsterra Y-Block King

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    I have both. I mounted they relays on the front clip next to the radiator and powered the relays from the battery. I don't remember having an issue with the bulbs. But you can always use a grinder and enlarge the holes.
     

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