Brake distribution block & warning light switch Q

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by wjajr, Nov 2, 2018.


  1. wjajr

    wjajr Binder Driver

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    I have been boning up on distribution blocks, and read FSM blurb on warning light switch resetting once it has been triggered.

    No one seems to carry or has in stock a replacement drum/drum block that factory used on my 1200B. I have been shopping for a like device used by one of the big three that may be retrofitted to my truck. There is a lot of front disk/rear drum units available which contain a pressure reducer for the rear drum circuit which won't work properly, and not many for drum/drum.

    My understanding is with drum/drum no fluid pressure altering between front and rear circuits needed, and in the early days duel circuit brake systems, 1967 to 1970 or so, most manufactures used the same drum/drum distribution block for front disk/ rear drum systems utilizing a separate pressure reducing device down rear line from the block before it splits feeding both rear cylinders.

    One block I located that may be compatible with my truck is what GM A bodies used 1968-1971 which most likely will need to be retro fit with one or more bushings to adapt IH's brake line fittings.

    The other route to take would be to refurbish what I have now by cleaning and fitting new "O" rings, which I probably can locate at an industrial supply store. One problem, my warning switch seems not to be working electrically, and I think the problem is its spring is degraded or the guts are stuck with gunk. There is no way to disassemble it.

    Has someone out there retrofit a distribution block that all HI brake lines will screw in without bushings, and if so where would one get said device? On the other hand , if I could locate a new replacement switch, rebuilding what I have would be possible.
     
  2. wjajr

    wjajr Binder Driver

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    Last edited: Nov 3, 2018
  3. kevingweq

    kevingweq High Wheeler

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  4. Dana Strong

    Dana Strong Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    A good description/cross-sectioned diagram of the device is shown in my FSM. Yes, assuming the center piston assembly isn't damaged or corroded, new rings should fix it. As for the switch, it's just a push-button On-Off with a long center actuating stalk; when released to the Out direction, it grounds the wire through the switch, the brass body and then the steel tubing. If the stalk's end gets sheared off, it will stay 'Open' permanently. I recall a thread about getting new switches not too long ago, or an old one could be repaired. If it's just full of gunk and won't go On, cleaning should fix it. Check the wire to be sure it's getting power from the Warning Light; grounding it should suffice.
    The "Valve" block uses part number 352 664 C91, while the switch is 352 663 C1. If you decide a new switch is needed, you should call a few LightLine dealers first. I get lots of 'hits' from NSN part providers when I search using the first number, so it might be worth checking with some of them:
    https://www.google.com/search?clien....182.356.0j2......0....1..gws-wiz.C-lV0GrDSxo

    "Quad" rings shouldn't be necessary - the switches worked fine with standard O rings. Why change what works and might be harder to find/fit as easily? Measuring the piston groove, the bore and the original O-rings should give you the correct size to get.


    .
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2018
  5. 1975IH200

    1975IH200 High Wheeler

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    It is a simple rebuild.
    Cleaning, new O-rings and new copper gaskets.
    Assortment tray of each at Harbor Freight will do fine for both items.
    Brake Valve rebuild.jpg
     
  6. wjajr

    wjajr Binder Driver

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    The power has been off for nearly 24 hours around here. We had some rather stiff winds yesterday, and a lot of rain after a summer of drought which combined to topple a lot of trees onto power lines. Not particularly convenient where my house is 98% electrically powered, stove, oven, pump etc., and heated with a 3.5 ton Geo Thermal Heat pump which pulls 75 amps when starting. I don't think my 2300 watt generator could hack the well pump. This put a damper on web searches for the elusive brake light warning switch, and the flushing of toilets etc. Mrs wjajr does not particularly enjoy the no running water and the no flushing thing. I tell her we have hundreds trees both soft and hardwood out back to be utilized for cretin personal maintenance tasks and no, waiting. LOL

    Seeing how nothing that plugs around the house in was operable, I decided to extract the brake distribution block and give it a cleaning. The "O" rings were like new, there was some pitting on spring end of one of the little shuttle pistons which must have been in the braking circuit that failed back in 1998. Both pistons were somewhat stuck, and the rest of the device looked real good once cleaned. So now to locate a usable switch, replace copper washers, and bend up two new lines connecting block to master cylinder that are a bit rusted.
     
  7. kevingweq

    kevingweq High Wheeler

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    If copper washers are not beat up too much ,I reuse them
     
  8. Greg R

    Greg R Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    For some things like this copper gaskets maybe re-used; best if annealed first. Then wire brush the oxide off and yore good to go.

    I take it that you're in a rural area. I'm kind of in the same boat except for the wood heat. But, we had an 80 gallon pressure tank put in for the well. As we did large gardening some years ago when we first moved here, the pump outfit and I calculated a tank size to give decent pump cycling when irrigating in the summer. It works real good with a side benefit of water storage for power outages. Even with a 9 member family, we never ran out for toilet flushes; providing folks were conservative with everything else. The kids learned what sponge baths were about :) when the outage was over night. They called it "Indoor Camping" I called it practice homesteading.
     
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  9. wjajr

    wjajr Binder Driver

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    We live on the populated side of boondocks. I did increase pressure tank capacity, but I have two electrically controlled valves that bleed off pressure and water on well return side of heat pump. These valves open as machine starts, and close when no heat is called for. I think there is just enough mineral build-up on their seats causing the problem, and to change them out is a royal PIA and $100 a pop. In summer I just close valves up stream from the offenders, and all is good. This heat pump thing has been a big expensive disappointing headache.
     
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  10. Dana Strong

    Dana Strong Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Can those valves be isolated so a solution of Ascorbic or Citric acid could be injected and allowed to dissolve the deposits? They are both used to clean deposits from inside water heaters. They wouldn't help if the valves have suffered corrosion to the seating members, of course.
     
  11. Gringo Gomez

    Gringo Gomez Farmall Cub

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    I filed off the aluminum peening on the contact end and was able to slide out the plastic core.
    I cleaned it out, reinserted the plastic without the internals and drilled and tapped it through the side for a 4/40 machine screw.
    Disassembled again to remove drilling debris, reassembled with all parts, chose a retaining screw not long enough to penetrate the plunger cavity.
     
  12. wjajr

    wjajr Binder Driver

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    Got a call-back from Phil Coonrod this afternoon, he is sending a used switch; $15.
    I spent the morning looking at alternative blocks and switches. Wagner made the one I have with no part number inscribed. Found that AMC used the same part after reading on The AMC Forum. Looking closely at the photos posted I believe the odd switch not original to block is a Ford part found on 1968 Mustangs. I ordered one for the Ford block before Phil called me back on the chance it could be substituted on our IH distribution block.

    The drawback to the Ford switch is I couldn't find a pigtail to wire into an IH wire harness. That item must be the only part not reproduced for Mustangs. But, I'm sure an easy workaround can be cobbled up.

    Also 68 GTO Drum/drum cars used PV06 distribution block that may retro fit late sixties non disk equiped IH trucks, Summit list it under rsd-PV06, and the switch pigtail PVW71

    More on this when both switches are delivered.
     
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  13. wjajr

    wjajr Binder Driver

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    Coonrod's IH Parts original brake warning switch arrived today as well as the Mustang reproduction switch from NPD. Coonrod's works like new; happy, happy, happy. No messing around cobbling up something that would serve the same purpose for 70 or more bucks plus fittings as needed.

    The ford switch is the same size in dimensions, excepting it uses a thread that is finer than the IH part. It is made of nylon or some white tough plastic that probably would screw into the IH block and work. It has two pins one is for12volt feed, the other a ground path. I'll be attempting to send back the Ford switch.
     
  14. 1975IH200

    1975IH200 High Wheeler

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    Great Info !
     

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