Belltown Build - 1974 Scout II

Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by Belltownbikes, Feb 25, 2019.


  1. Kohler

    Kohler Farmall Cub

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    Here are some pictures that might help. I replaced the rocker top along the door opening and the rear outer extension. The inner rocker is all original and the front extension is all original. The floors slope at 5.5 and the rocker tops and inner rocker are all less than a degree. Hope this helps.
    18CAB596-233C-4706-B428-AA87985C88D8.jpeg A75DA934-F79A-474A-B41E-6D8B6EC4FCE4.jpeg DBDCCD2C-6F04-4C65-9093-B45C42B3AB43.jpeg 5E50A726-CD58-4D11-AE62-62CC2FE134B8.jpeg FA6B077A-0F3C-40BF-A60B-8822B8DE0C92.jpeg 97B6F548-B53D-4A55-B5B6-1D3C4828A320.jpeg 28B135C4-09AD-469D-B941-C30D497E4274.jpeg
     
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  2. Belltownbikes

    Belltownbikes Farmall Cub

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    That helps a lot - thanks!
     
  3. Jrc55

    Jrc55 Binder Driver

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    I didn't have seat brackets when I put mine together. Double check that your seat brackets will place your seats where you want them, given the amount of slope that you have as well.
     
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  4. Belltownbikes

    Belltownbikes Farmall Cub

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    We've been fiddling with the PS rocker - the next step. We have a good datum on the aft end, given that the PS mid-tub mount has been rebuilt. The front end pretty good to, as the A pillar was solid all the way to the old rocker. So we made sure the tub was aligned over the chassis and then re-hung the door. A bunch of fiddling with the door still left us with an uneven door bottom/rocker gap. After much scratchin of heads we determined that out door braces we tacked in a couple of weeks ago were holding the A pillar incorrectly. The A pillar was inclined towards the rear. So we clipped the tacks and pulled the A pillar forward and retacked the brace. A couple of easy adjustmants and now our door/rocker gap is nice. Good thing we re-hung the door - and thanks to those posters here that provided that info! i knew that there could be trouble with our braces because we did the best alignment we could earlier, but 5 of the 6 tub mounts were wasted, making the tub kind of taco-ish. Keep moving...B
     
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  5. NorthEastBeast

    NorthEastBeast Farmall Cub

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    Looks like a great project for you and your son!
     
  6. Belltownbikes

    Belltownbikes Farmall Cub

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    We actually added metal! We got the PS rocker installed. Next up, PS front tub mount and then on to the DS rocker and mounts and B pillar.
    IMG_2296.JPG

    IMG_2295.JPG

    IMG_2300.JPG

    WE had to do some interesting patchwork to get the bottom of the door post to meet smoothly with the rocker. We are going to try and repair the doglegs. They are pretty eaten up - like everything else, but I do think there is enough of them left to work with. WE are going to use rectangular tube for the body mounts and square tube for the floor supports. Thanks for looking. Bob
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2019
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  7. Belltownbikes

    Belltownbikes Farmall Cub

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    We got the PS front tub mount in. We decided on square tube rather than the stacok mount/wedge deal. We have good mounts on the whole passenger side! Now onto the driver's side.
    IMG_2304.JPG IMG_2306.JPG
     
  8. winchested

    winchested Y-Block King

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    Love it!
     
  9. supercrouton

    supercrouton Farmall Cub

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    Very Nice!
     
  10. Belltownbikes

    Belltownbikes Farmall Cub

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    We worked on the other side this weekend - not a lot done because we had to work with Mom this weekend - I guess it is a testament to her coolness that we got anything at all done this past weekend! We cut the rot out of the "tunnel rib" and started patching that. The curve where the front tub mount joins was toast, of course. But also where one of the floor braces landed. And a couple of other areas - the square hole towards the back was under a pop-rivit/silicone sealant patch that held a bolt for the seat base I think.
    IMG_2315.JPG

    Not a great pic of the patch job, but it came out pretty good I think. The boy is getting better at swapping between TIG and MIG as the job changes. He likes the TIG much more, but sometimes the MIG just works better, or the position doesn't allow the whole two hands and one foot busy thing.

    IMG_2321.JPG

    We also took off the windshield frame - looks to be pretty typical rust there. A lot of rust rattling around inside. I'll cut some ports on the backside to get access to the inside. There will be a lot of fiddly work on this to make it look good!

    IMG_2318.JPG

    Without the windshield frame, there is even less Scout! Most of the people that take a look into the garage wonder what the heck we are doing. Even the squeze has made some comments wondering why if we are spending so much time working on it does it keep getting less and less...On the good side we are just about done with the removal. We have to cut the DS mid-tub mount out and the bottom part of the DS B pillar and then the bed walls out and we are done with removal. It does mean that we will have removed just about everything - but it is all about the challenge of the rebuild!
    IMG_2316.JPG

    Thanks for looking. Bob & Finn
     
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  11. Belltownbikes

    Belltownbikes Farmall Cub

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    The boy pieced the PS rear dogleg back together and it came out really good. This was the easiest of the 4, but I think we will be able to ressurect the other 3 too. Time and patience. We stll have to clean up some of that nasty welding that held on the rear quarter, but that is easy enough.
    IMG_2326.JPG

    While he was working on that, I was working on the B pillar on the DS. So now getting close to the last of the digging, except the bed walls. This is what's left of the DS B pillar, and you can see we still have some more digging to get a good tub mount. We are going to replace the tub mount/step with larger pieces on this side - there is just not that much good metal left here. This area had been patched over a couple of times, with no removal of rotted metal before the patching went on.

    IMG_2324.JPG
    We will mock the rocker in place and rehang the door so we can see where this B pillar needs to go. Thanks for looking. Bob & Finn
     
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  12. Belltownbikes

    Belltownbikes Farmall Cub

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    So this might seem like a simple question, but keep in mind this is the only scout I have ever seen and our tub was so far gone to make chassis/tub positioning a guess at best. We put in the frist front tub mount based on aligning the tub to what we though was the center line. We measured side/side from the tops of the A pillars and marked the cowl. We measured between the tunnel rib aft "doglegs" and marked the step. We used those marks to align the tub over the chassis. When we do that, the tunnel is not centered symmetrically over the chassis, sighting along the tunnel ribs. Also - and even more concerning - the pinch welds at the door frame are not an equal distance from the chassis rails. If we move the tub to make the chassis/door opening pinch seams equal PS/DS our previous centerline marks are off. But the tunnel alignment with the chassis seems better. Which indicator should we ignore? It seems to me that the tunnel should be more or less centered over the chassis, and the door openings should be an equal distance from the chassis - if the other marks line up that is good. But there could be other variables affecting the CL marks on the cowl and step. Any ideas here? I"m all ears! Thanks!
     
  13. Jrc55

    Jrc55 Binder Driver

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    I ran a plumb bob down through the tranny tunnel center and centered that between the insides of the frame rails. With that in place, I measured the outside of the frame rails to the inner rockers and everything was close. I'm NOT saying that this is correct, but that's how I did it and things "seem" to have turned out. IMG_20181209_195806_023.jpg

    Oh, and the passenger side is wider than the driver side by design!
     
  14. Belltownbikes

    Belltownbikes Farmall Cub

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    Thanks! I didn't think of plumb bob down the center of the tunnel opening. How did you center by the step? Or did you just center the front then assume that everything was paralllel to the chassis from there back?
     
  15. Jrc55

    Jrc55 Binder Driver

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    I built my scout in two halves. The rear half was scratch built. I centered that from outside frame rail to outer floor flange front and back, then bolted it down to the frame. (Obviously my body mount holes were centered during construction of the bed floor too, so those were right on).

    This is where it gets sketchy in my memory. As I mentioned, the floor pan on the passenger side is wider. I "think" I centered the plumb bob through the tranny tunnel hole from front door jamb flange to door jamb flange. Not tranny opening center. I had those specific factory measurements as reference and they are documented on my build. Center of 59 1/2" maybe?

    I was replacing absolutely EVERYTHING in mid air, so I used that measurement I believe and everything panned out
     
  16. Jrc55

    Jrc55 Binder Driver

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    Here it is page 3 ....

    Today was a 14 hour day. I decided to take a fresh look at the next step and take the advice I would've given someone else...Put it back on the frame. I used my Lil Joe forklift thingy to set it back on the frame. Then I leveled things side to side.

    [​IMG]
    These are the memory marks left from drilling out the spot welds when I removed the center cab brace to restore it on my weld bench. I drilled two of these holes and bolt this in place.
    [​IMG]
    Next was to get my 59.5" kickpanel to kickpanel measurement, split that in half to find true center then drop a plumb bob down through to center the front between the frame rails. That was 13.5"

    [​IMG]
    Next after finding center front and rear, I checked the diagonal from bed center to door hinge opening to triangulate. This was 56 5/8"

    [​IMG]
    So many diagonals were taken. Remember I have no front cab mount height reference. This was 119.5" in a spot I determined for both sides.
    [​IMG][​IMG]
    I had measured another scout and got 46 1/8 between the hinge surface and latch surface. I decided to go with 46.0".

    So the huge challenge was, keeping the cab level while determining heights for the hinge mount area that allowed me to run a straight edge along the top of the quarter panel AND top of the door while keeping door jamb distances, centered on frame, and keeping an eye on all diagonals. The doors still need picked up a little to shut, but when they latch, they are right on. I'll keep working on that.
    [​IMG]
     
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  17. Belltownbikes

    Belltownbikes Farmall Cub

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    Gotcha. Thanks very much - your thread has been a great resource. So the door openings - I'll measure from the pinch seams on both sides - should be equi-distant from the chassis. Or some other reference I can duplicate L/R. The pinch seams seem convenient because I have them on the back of the door opening too - in the same plane parallel to the chassis. The tunnel lands where it lands. I *think* the rocker/tunnel rib distance is the same on both sides - the floor braces SSS sells are supposed to work on either side. We're going to have to re-do our PS front tub mount, but that is NBD. Thanks again - have a good weekend. Bob
     
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  18. Jrc55

    Jrc55 Binder Driver

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    That's sounds about right. Just keep in mind that rear jambs are adjustable so don't trust this as much as the fronts. I had to modify, (lengthen or shorten all aftermarket sheetmetal) don't trust the replacements either. Have a good weekend also!
     
  19. Belltownbikes

    Belltownbikes Farmall Cub

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    So we got our tub alignment squared away. We had to redo the PS front tub mount, but that was really not a big deal. Everything looks better now and we are within 1/16" side/side. With that out of the way, we went to work on the DS B pillar/step/mid tub mount/riocker junction. We re-constructed the bottom of the pillar and cut out a portion of the step to replace the tub mount. We had to mock the rocker into place, and that was exciting to see rockers on both sides - but it'll be a few more hours before we actually get that installed - but we are close.

    The DS B pillar junction: still had wasted dogleg on there, but there is just enough left of that to help us locate the rocker:

    IMG_2324.JPG

    The reconstructed door post:
    IMG_2351.JPG

    Step and mid-tub mount replacement getting fitted up (undecided whether we want to leave the end open or cut and weld and close it off like stock):
    IMG_2353.JPG

    From the front:
    IMG_2354.JPG

    The boy welder riding his bicycle on a break this weekend - we finally had a weekend where both days were nice weather:

    IMG_2333.jpg
     
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  20. Aclendenen

    Aclendenen Farmall Cub

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    Man that drop looks fun! All we have in North Texas is rain and mud.
     
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