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Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by Belltownbikes, Feb 25, 2019.
I'm getting flashbacks!
Looking good! I am right across the sound on Long Island. I picked up my Terra from Maine.
Hey! We have freinds and family out by the state park in East Islip. Lots of beach to drive your Scout on down there!
A bit of Monday progress.
This is an example of the former "bodywork". The good part is that we will be able to reuse the edge of the wheel well - but they just rivited new metal onto rusty old metal. All of this done before it was parked ina garage 25 years ago:
So our plan is to put the tub in traction. But to do that we had to repair the firewall where the inner fender mounts. My boy had to cut up some scraps to bring back the MIG welding skills - he's been spoiled by TIG. Also, the welding he's used to is on perfectly cleaned and fitted 4130. But he came right up to speed:
JRC - I've read through your thread must be 10 times by now - what a great reference. You are doing a community service with your documentation. Thanks! B
Thanks! Your son is just amazing! A real testament to the father you must be. I'm really excited for you guys. You don't seem deterred by what you are finding.
So before we put the tub in traction we had to repair some rot on the firewall. Good place to practice. New sheet metal to old sheet metal and plug welds and stiching tacks together all new for the kid with the welder. He caught on pretty quickly. Felt good to have the first repair done.
Also a question - though I should probably start a new thread to be more visible. We are planning on putting the tub in traction over the frame and rebuild the tub mounts. We have the frame on jackstands located aft of the front springs and forard of the rea springs and one additional stand all the way at the back. This seems to be the best way to get the frame where it should be, but should we perhaps put the jackstands under the axles? Just looking at the springs and shackles Im not confident that the frame would be where it "should be" if we went that way. Thoughts? Thanks for looking! Bob
This past weekend we worked to get the tub flat and squared up. We then welded in some jigs and door braces to keep it where we think it is as good as we'll get it. A little sketchy here and there because the rot has taken away so much metal. We used all of our jacks - even stole the levelers from the camper. We have the two screw jacks in stalled on the rear jig, but have not yet gotten those installed on the middle jig or the front support.
View from the rear:
Door braces went in and then we took off the driver's side door. Then it was dinner time and Scout worked ended for the weekend:
I'm satisfied with the progress, but it tookus a lot longer to get the tub squared up than I thought - a lot of head scratching and adjusting this and that, etc. Having no experience with this particular vehicle didn't help. The body book helped a lot. Next up is the rest of the screw jacks, then raise the tub a few inches overall and swap aoo of the body bushings. Then lower the tub back down, and start rebulding the supports between the bushings and the tub. Thanks for looking.
The tub has screw jacks all around and we have lifted it above the chassis:
Started in on repairing the DS rear corner:
This past weekend we got both of the C-pillars rebuilt. Luckily the tailgate attachment points were solid, the rot was only on the wings. We also fabrticated and welded in the new rear beam. Now we actually have 2 of the 6 body mounts back! We stepped away from the original design here, in favor of something less complicated and stronger and something that we can fabricate ourselves. This will not be a concourse restoration - we are building a driver here. We are going to try and fabricate as much as possible ourselves. Saying that - I *did* buy $400 worth of sheet metcal parts from SSS last week, and some outer rockers from Anything Scout. Speaking of which, we did weld the outer rockers to the inners we had bent up out of 14 ga down in town. We made a carboard tempate of the floor, which was harder than I thought it would be: there is so much filler between the wheelwells and the existing floor that it was hard to get a very accurate curve - we did the best we could. We will bring the template down to our local metal shop and they are going to cut us a floor piece out of 14 ga treadplate. We'll also use that material for the forward floors. We also got a piece of tunnel patch in. The next steps on the agenda will be rear floor fitting - which will mean removal of the wheelwells, and repairing the middle body mounts. There is going to be some head scratching on the DS - the bottom of the B pillar is gone. We've also got to slice and indent the rockers now that we have the outers and inners all welded together. Thanks for looking!
This is what the rear beam looked like. This view would be from the underside. Note the bend in the beam and the patchwork. Ugh:
Lookin' good. What's nice about the TIG is that you can build a lot of your own channels cleanly, even curved channels by flying down the corner seams with or without filler rod and minimal grinding. Looks like you two aren't wasting any time. Do you guys have a timeline?
We are trying to keep the project moving along without totally overtaking the rest of life. This past weekend was so nice here that we had to get out for some bike riding and then there is springtime yard chores. With the warmer weather working in the garage after dinner is better. I would love to have it assembled and running and in primer by the end of the year so that we could put it in the barn for the winter (and give Mom here garage bay back for the winter). And then pull it out next spring, do a little bit of finish work and put some final paint on. No sense in killing ourselves to get it in paint right before it gets put away for the winter.
So we didn't get too much done this weekend, but we did keep things rolling along. Working on rebuilding the middle body mounts:
This is the "good" side:
We got the rot cut out:
We did start making patches and welding those in, but I don't have any pics. We also notched the rockers and welded those up. The trick here is that I've never even looked underneath another Scout so I don't know what all this stuff is *supposed* to look like. Reading through all of the great threads here has helped us tremendously and I thanks all of you for your documentation efforts. Also this is why I'm trying to document our build - there might be something in it for someone someday!
We went with the Anything Scout HD outer rockers and had the local metal shop bend us up some 14 ga inner rockers. We could bring the assemblies into the downstairs shop and the boy could sit at his welding table and use the TIG nice and comfortable and clean:
We are going to keep plugging along, but will stall herre for the next 2 weekends: our last "full family" April vacation - our girl enters University of Vermont in the fall and her April break will no longer line up with her brother's. Thanks for looking! Bob
Your son's welds are making ours look bad!!!!
We took a week off to go have some fun out west. Did a week of bike riding in Sedona - great place. The kids had never been ot the desert, so it was quite an experience. Once they got used to knowing all the plants out there want to cut you, all was good. My time at the front of the pack has passed - I can keep up no problem on the uphills, but when it points down the kids drop me like a bad habit. My 17 y/o daughter rode point and "on-sighted" most everything. So great to see them push their limits! We stopped at the Hoover Dam and took a tour. I'm a power guy, so I had to take a snap of the turbines (well, half of the turbines - this on the Neveda side):
After the week, we were looking forward to getting back to work on the Scout. We welded our floor pieces together - we are using 14 ga treadplate which came in a ~4X8' sheet, so we had to do the floor in 3 pieces. The next thing on our to do list is the DS B pillar. But I think to get there we have to install the PS rocker and then take measurements and place the DS rocker where it should be to know where our B pilar needs to end. We have to replace the step/mid tub body mount from nearly the centerline of the tub outboard. Good stuff!
Another shot of the inside of the DS fender well. Hard to see much, but I include it here mostly for humor purposes. Multiple layers of patch panels over rusty metal. Some rivits, some very poor MIG and even some poor brazing.
In other news, we brought the TIG machine up to the garage from the basment bike shop and the boy is using that. He likes it a lot more than the MIG. We bought a "TIG Button" which allows operator-pulsing using a finger instead of the petal. We tried the 4t settings on our machine but the kid just couldn't come to terms with it. The TIG button is pressure sensitive and works great. We will see about its long term durability. Thanks for looking. Bob
Cut out the remainder of the DS floor and got a good look at the "tunnel rib" - or whatever it's called. Realized that the floor section was spot welded to the tunnel on this "rib". Given the rust on everything else, figured there would be plenty hiding in that tunnel/floor sammich. And I was right. I think I've seen a bunch of pics of floors replaced on this sight where the new floors are welded on top of a small lip left over on the inboard side of the old floor. Is this common practice? PIA seperating floor from tunnel rib though.
At any rate, reoving this will make repairs needed on this rib easier. We need to rebuild the rib at the front on both sides where the tub mount attached.
I cut out that rib and replaced it with 1.5" angle iron that was 1/8 thick
More work equals less Scout. WE are getting towards the end of cutting stuff out - good thing too, because there isn't much left:
also clamped the new rocker in position just to see new metal on there for a minute. So now I have a question - is the top surface of the rocker supposed to be level, or tilted a bit with the inboard side higher? Just clampling ours in place sets it angled, and the angle will serve to point a floor mounted flulsh right at the floor-level of the tunnel. So it makes sense to me, but I always thought that the rocker top would be level. Having never seen one of these Scouts up close in person continues to make this project interesting...
There is an angle to the top I think of it as drainage but the floors are at an angle too being higher in the middle so it should line up when all is said and done.
Pretty sure the top of the rocker is level, not angled with the floor. That’s how it was for my 76 at least.