Alternator mount/bracket help

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by St3ve, Feb 26, 2020.


  1. St3ve

    St3ve Farmall Cub

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    I have a 75 scout II 345 no a/c.

    So I decided to tighten my alternator belt since it was making a squeaking noise when starting up. And noticed that it was off center. So I tried to straighten the alternator. Finally I have it straight and go and tighten everything down and the dam thing broke. The outer mount that the bolt goes in. I grabbed a couple washers and tighten it down.

    My question is there an alternative to a mount? I’ve searched everywhere online and guess that part is extinct.

    [​IMG]


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  2. mallen

    mallen Y-Block King

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    I have one. PM me.
     
  3. jeff campbell

    jeff campbell Lives in an IH Dealership

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    IHPA has a beefed up bracket
     
  4. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore Y-Block King

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    I had the same thing happen to me. Bought one from a fellow IH'er on BP.
     
  5. St3ve

    St3ve Farmall Cub

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    Looks like that’s what I’m doing also


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  6. theloneduck

    theloneduck Binder Driver

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    Like broke off or stripped? Mine stripped so I got a longer bolt and matching lock nut and just pushed through from other side.
     
  7. St3ve

    St3ve Farmall Cub

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    It completely broke haha instead of two holes that the alternator fits between I only have one..


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  8. MrKenmore

    MrKenmore Y-Block King

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    Here's mine:
    [​IMG]
     
  9. St3ve

    St3ve Farmall Cub

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    Same thing happened to mine


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  10. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

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    That's just a pivot point,not to be torqued down to much.If you have wobble there its either a worn bolt or worn hole in the alt.
     
  11. winchested

    winchested Y-Block King

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    Find someone that Tigs aluminum, or if its cast iron get it soldered.

    My PS bracket had this issue and I just drilled it and put a roll pin in with some JB weld.
     
  12. wjajr

    wjajr Binder Driver

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    winchested:
    "or if its cast iron get it soldered."

    Do you by chance mean brazed with brass?
     
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  13. stroker3

    stroker3 Lives in an IH Dealership

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    x2. Lightly tightened is all that's needed. Never need to touch it to swap out a belt that way.
     
  14. mallen

    mallen Y-Block King

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    Yes, that's what i was thinking. If you had to repair it. I've had mixed luck fixing stuff like that though. There are welding rods used to do that too, but I've never used them. I saw some you tube videos that were impressive though. But if i had to fix it, I'd heat the whole thing with a rosebud, then braze that with a brass rod and plenty of flux ,then bury it in sand and let it cool. The even preheat and slow even cooling keeps it from cracking. Then rather than drill the hole back round, is use a small burr on a Dremel.

    Aluminum can actually be acetylene welded, by people with serious pro level skills. I have the equipment and have been practicing, but so far, i destroy the part most of the time and have only got a halfway decent weld once. But eventually I'll get there. It seems like a great skill to have. I talked to a guy at the welding store a few months back that does tug now, but used to use acetylene on aluminum sheet metal for autobody repair. Gave me some really good tips.
     
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  15. wjajr

    wjajr Binder Driver

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    By the look of the grain where casting failed it looks to be cast iron. Yes, casting should be heated and brazed, then cooled slowly over a period time. Some guys use their gas grill to heat little parts such as this bracket, and can over time throttle down grill's temperature slowly.

    I have a 1953 Ferguson tractor that at some time had one of its bolt tabs that mate engine to transmission, not unlike your casting, that was brazed back together. lord knows how much torque or force that little tab is tolerating being farmer tight. Tractor has not split in half yet!
     
  16. jeff campbell

    jeff campbell Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Yes, they're cast iron
     
  17. Dana Strong

    Dana Strong Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Brass or bronze buildup is a good, cheap solution. Silver soldering the broken piece back in place also works well, if done right with a strong alloy and the right flux. A propane torch (or two) running Mapp gas might even get that part hot enough, if OA isn't available. Both these methods don't heat the part enough to require true annealing of the work zone.
    Another possibility is to stick weld it with nickel alloy or pure nickel. The nickle in the transition zone allows the carbon from the cast iron to separate, which keeps the shrinkage rate the same, and the resulting alloy is soft enough to machine. Same heating and cooling procedures, of course, to keep from ending up with white cast.
    Lots of good advice and details can be found at Weldingweb.com​
     
  18. mallen

    mallen Y-Block King

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    Mapp can do it, but it's not easy and you will go through a lot of cylinders. I wouldn't try it unless it was something really small. Here's what the one originally in my truck looked like. You can see someone repaired it with brass brazing rod and it worked just fine. The only reason I took it out was that I installed an AC bracket.

    IMG_20200228_080844750.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2020
  19. Dana Strong

    Dana Strong Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Not if silver soldering, but it won't give enough heat for brazing.

    To help contain the heat (and thus reduce the amount needed), the bracket can be buried in dry sand with only that part sticking out. If blowing sand is or might be a problem, cover the surface of the sand all around the exposed part with a thin sheet of compressed fiberglass insulation.
     
  20. Scott Silbaugh

    Scott Silbaugh Farmall Cub

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    Hmmm...I need a mount for an 80 Traveler. Found one on eBay. It’s part #379292C2.
    Anyone know how I can tell if this will fit?
     

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