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Discussion in 'Binder Builds' started by MotoDave, Dec 10, 2013.
Who wants to guess what I've been working on?
Something fun showed up today:
Dave, sorry I haven't checked out you build for a while. Tell your wife, nice build, welcome to the world Ethan. Greg
Finished mocking up the seat position, shifter and got the Suburban Tilt steering column into place, driving position feels pretty good. Still need to make mounts to bolt down the column and make the seat mounts, I want to tie those into the cage so that may come a ways later. I might shorten the shifter just a bit
Modified brake mounting plate to tilt the hydroboost/master cylinder up enough to clear the top of the inner fender.
I'll use a spindle nut with a modified socket to bolt the HB unit to the mounting plate, so that if I ever need to remove it in the field I'll have the tool with me, rather than using the stock large square nut that came with it.
This past weekend I had a good chunk of time to work so I pulled the old TBI 350 with the help of a friend, and took a first stab at fitting the 5.3. As expected the passenger side motor mount bracket on the frame hits the AC compressor, I had planned to re-make this side anyways. Overall it looks like it'll fit pretty well in the same location as the old motor. I'm hoping to have time to fab the new motor mounts this weekend and get the motor bolted in, then I can start figuring out what'll work for exhaust manifolds.
And lastly a bad shot of the truck at ride height. I pulled the springs that were making it sit high in the front, and am just running a single spring and using the adjuster to set height. Doesn't have the stupid bro-truck stance anymore
Ugh, I feel like these updates suck lately, but as some of you know babies are a bit of a time sink.
Motor is in and bolted up to the transmission. I built new motor mounts, the drivers side matches the location of the existing frame side motor mount (for the old TBI 350), the passenger side is more like a normal LS motor mount to clear the AC compressor. I didn't like the original mount I'd built off the frame on that side anyways, so it was an opportunity to re-make it better.
Been using the TIG welder everywhere I can, I'm no pro but I'm happy with how these turned out.
I got sick of dealing with the inner fenders, so I made them removable. I thought this was going to be trickier than it was, I really should have just done this years ago. I drilled out the spot welds along the 3 seams, and then cut the outside surface of the inner fender (which is 1 piece) at the seam along the line of the firewall. I will weld nuts to the backside of the seams and bolt through the spot weld holes to reattach. I'll probably build the new core support to also support/locate the ends of the fenders and grille.
A tip - if you cant easily find the spot welds, sanding off the paint along the seam will make them stand out pretty well.
Another plug for the Rotabroach cutters, they do such a clean job on sheet metal. I've used my small set enough by now to justify spending the money for the larger set to replace all of the hole saws I used to use.
I'm not sure the stock truck AC compressor (specifically the tensioner) is going to work out, it hangs down lower than the crank pulley and might get friendly with my panhard bar. I need to make time to cycle the front suspension and make the decision, it should be simple to relocate the AC compressor (Novak makes a nice looking kit that uses the old style AC compressor: Air Conditioning Compressor Relocation - Novak Conversions).
The passenger side motor mount needs to move forward a bit more, the header flange just hits it. Not a big deal, I can move the mount forward and inch easily and have lots of clearance.
The firewall needs clearance on both sides, as expected. The SBC I had used rams-horn exhaust manifolds that were a bit lower profile. Not really a big deal, and a whole lot easier to do without the stupid fenders in the way.
Drivers side is the worst
Current plan is to make enough clearance for the header tube plus a heatshield. Not sure if I want the heatshield mounted to the header (like this stuff Thermo-Tec : Stainless Steel Clamp-On Heat Shield) or to the firewall (https://www.designengineering.com//...ier/floor-tunnel-shield-ii-heat-sound-insulat).
Nice work You sure are getting a lot done with a newborn in the house...or is the garage detached?
Thanks, it feels slow but at least its progress.
No fancy detached garage for me, just a plain old 2 car garage in Suburbia, CA. As a bonus the nursery shares a wall with the garage, so I've had to be strategic about when I make big noises
Another lame update, whatever. I've been sneaking in time when I can find it, sure doesn't feel like much progress though.
Moved the passenger side motor mount to clear the header.
Made clearance for the headers in the firewall. The pictures make it look like its closer than it really is, I was aiming for 1"+ of air space around the headers. The firewall will get the same sound + thermal coating as the underside of the truck, plus a layer of heat shielding (Aluminum w/ fiberglass backing stuff from DEI).
Checked for clearance at full bump with the new motor - turns out the LS series engines use a larger diameter crank pulley than a TBI 350, but I still have clearance. Also looks like the front driveshaft will clear the oil pan and starter just fine, and the deep truck oil pan clears the front diff too. It hangs down more than I'd prefer but I can swap it out for a lower profile pan later on if it bugs me or becomes an issue.
I finished up the master cylinder mount, and machined a post for the hydroboost clevis to attach to. Trying to preemptively cut out any sources of rattles so I designed it to have a wave spring to preload the parts together.
Where the post gets welded into the brake pedal:
Not entering the pretty welds post just yet First time welding stainless to mild steel, turned out OK.
In case anyone's wondering, McMaster P/N 1281N24 is a dead ringer for the brake and clutch pedal bushings.
I machined an adapter for the master cylinder to the hydroboost unit, only need this because the HB unit is clocked up so the accumulator clears the inner fender and steering column.
I have an idea of how I want to build the steering column mounts, which will be the next project. It'll be nice to be able to steer the truck if only to move it around the garage.
I'll be tackling the Engine wiring & plumbing soon, and sending the ECU out to get VATS and emissions removed and get it set up to run stand alone. I have some plans for the engine harness that should be simple and clean, will share that soon hopefully.
Great pictures! Those headers look awesome!
I know they won't flow as well, but I ended up using LS-2 exhaust manifolds.
Everything ended up fitting great, I didn't even end up needed to modify the transmission tunnel cover.
Keep up the great work.
Got a link or picture for the manifolds you used? I would prefer to use a cast iron stock manifold off of something, but everything I looked at either seemed like it would interfere with the engine mounts or dumped way at the back of the heads and would cause a TON of firewall work with how I have the engine mounted.
Here is a couple of before and after links. You can also see them from the 1970 Scout 800a link in my signature.
I forget the user name of the guy who found them for me, but he is the guy that helps everyone with their Scout LS-1 swaps and did/shared all the wiring/electrical research, then documented it.
Anyway, he always recommends to use LS-1 exhaust manifolds from a Firebird or Camaro.
I had shot him a note to ask further about exhaust manifolds, and he gave me an eBay link to a set of exhaust manifolds from an LS-2 powered Cadillac CTS (I believe). I had them powder coated, and (at least to me) they look great.
I think your headers look great in your pictures, and I certainly had a lot of people (locally) leaning on me to go the header route. However, given my planned use for my Scout, along with way too many bad experiences with cheap headers in my youth lead me down the path where I am at now.
One more link:
Please see the exhaust manifolds on post #23. These came off of a college kids 2006 C6 Corvette just a couple of miles down the road from me. Again, donor was another LS-2 engine. Maybe I am just destined to run LS-2 exhaust? The LS-2 was the base engine for several years, so, in theory they should be the most common.
Anyway, what makes these exhaust manifolds so nice is hole in the center for the oxygen sensor(s). One less exhaust headache to worry about. Food for though if you are considering different options.
Any reason you chose weld a stud on rather than just a clevis to the pedal arm? Pushrod alignment, pedal ratio, or you just wanted to show off your mad lathe skillz?
Jerry, thanks for the info on the manifolds, I do remember looking at those LS2 manifolds and thinking they should work. I think I couldn't get a line on any that werent 2x what I paid for these headers, and I got tired of looking.
Guido - It happened to work out the the hydroboost pushrod was a usable length, so I wanted to keep the stock-ish attachment method (post on the side of the pedal). This also let me space the HB unit a bit further towards the engine to have room for the lines to clear the clutch master cylinder.
And who doesn't justify having fun toys like a lathe by making totally unnecessary complications for themselves
That's what I figured, all excellent reasons
I got the brake pedal mods finished up, rebuilt the main pedal pivot with the above mentioned flanged bushings from McMaster, and got it all bolted into the truck. This let me figure out where the gas pedal wanted to be, and modify the Silverado Drive by Wire pedal to work. I used measurements off my DD Tundra to figure out where the pedal should be in relation to the brake, and it worked out pretty well. The brake and clutch pedals are in the stock location, adn there's still room for a dead pedal space to rest your foot - depending on how I build the cage this may get compromised a bit).
I bent up a bracket that adapts the GM (Suburban?) tilt steering column I have to the stock scout mounts. I think I will reinforce this by tying into the brake pedal mount, but it works for now.
Cut the Borgeson steering shaft to length and got it instsalled, its nice to be able to steer the truck around, even just for moving it around the garage. Also, I may have sat in the seat and made Vroom noises for a while.
Next up was tackling the engine wiring harness. I went back and forth about sending it out or buying a pre-made harness, but in the end just decided to tackle it myself.
A few nights in the garage after the kiddo went to sleep got me from this
I used split braided loom (LINK), with self-fusing tape (LINK) to tie up the branches (the gray stuff - doesn't stick to the wires).
I'm happy enough with how it came out, and glad I did it myself - I have a much better understanding of what everything is and where it goes on the motor.
I used a lot of info on Brendan's website to sort out the loom, and had him program the ECU to remove VATS & emissions stuff, so I'll leave him a plug here: LT1 Swap
I think the easiest place to mount the ECU, engine fuse block and body fuse blocks will be the tops of the fenders, so I worked on making the inner fenders that I cut off able to be bolted back on I tacked weld nuts to the back side of the relevant flanges on the firewall & inner fender, and used button head cap screws to bolt it back in place, since they'll be visible in the cab of the truck.
Got the main parts of the fuel system sorted out. Bosch 044 fuel pump, with a 100 micron pre-filter and a 10 micron Aeromotive filter after the pump.
Adapters for the push-on connectors at the fuel rail to AN fitting ends. I'm going to try using color coding to dummy proof the fuel lines - Blue/Red = Pressure, Black = Return.
I'm just going to run off of 1 of the saddle tanks for now, with eventual plans to use the saddle tanks as reserve fuel capacity and run off a main tank between the frame rails.
I'm pushing to fire the motor up before the end of the year, so I'll be working on building the engine fuse block next up.
Man!!!!! Love this build! Awesome work and WAYYYY above my metal working skill level.
Would you be willing to duplicate what you did there on a piece of sheet metal and ship it? I'd love to have this gas cap setup on my next build!
Sorry, didn't see this until now. I guess I need to mess with my setting so that I get notifications when someone posted.
I've tried using the form on a small piece of sheet metal and it draws up pretty bad, it only works on the body panel because there's lots of sheet metal around it to keep things straight.