Acetone Part Cleaning Idea/Question

Discussion in 'General IH Tech' started by Gunfighter97, Oct 9, 2019.


  1. Don B

    Don B Farmall Cub

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    The Zep gets mixed 50/50 so one gallon makes two so the price is ok. I’ve mixed up two gallons from the one I bought and it’s worked great on everything so far including my cruder up engine. I do scrape off the larger chunks first. Most of the mess I have removed is the tar like stuff that you get from the old oil and dirt mix.
     
  2. holyrider

    holyrider Farmall Cub

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    WOW!! I've always just used gasoline and recently (in the last fews years) have decided to be more careful and wear gloves, etc. Used to just dive in bare handed and slosh it all over. Would have used other solvents but never wanted to take the time to go get them, always had a can of gas around. After reading through this thread, seems gas was my best choice anyways, especially with my "stringent" safety precautions, (tongue firmly planted in cheek). Think I'll just continue with gas and gloves, even gas nowadays isn't as good a solvent as it was in the sixties.
     
  3. rotten

    rotten Farmall Cub

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    I've tried using simple green in an old crock pot to heat it up has worked pretty good on some small parts. Haven't had a chance to try it on anything large or super crusty yet though.
     
  4. mallen

    mallen High Wheeler

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    Naptha fractions like Stoddard's are a mix of random hydrocarbons. It's very much like mineral spirits kerosene,diesel or gasoline. They all dissolve similar stuff. The only significant difference is the average molecular weight of the various constituents. (And gasoline has lots of addatives) Toluene or xylene will also dissolve similar things. In fact you find some in those previously mentioned solvents. (I used to check for "BTEX", meaning benzene, toluene, ethyl benzene, xylene) Like all such things, avoid getting it on your skin or inhaling it.
    Have they stopped selling B9 chemdip entirely? I know they made it safer and less effective last time I bought it. But it still worked as well as gasoline or mek.
     
  5. Greg R

    Greg R Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Gasoline is so risky. One friend burned his dad's barn down when somehow he scrapped and sparked a part and the pan caught fire. Maybe it was warm day, maybe he thought he was in an open area , but fumes traveled to an open container and even 40 years he still felt bad about the look on dad's face when he came home from work.

    Gasoline also has benzene, toluene, naphthenic compounds and lots of similar stuff, depending on what's needed for octane rating. It is really a mix with a label that happens to play nice with what we want it to do. The stuff has changed, in fact new formula stuff has dirtier exhaust than the old stuff from the 60s and the cats are scrubbers to clean it up.

    It really comes down to risk. Water based is a pain. Carbon Tet was a miracle. Somewhere is a balance for safety/health and getting the job done. Protect yourselves guys, there's only body per customer and waking up in a hospital ward with a good chance of recovery years down the road may be a thankful experience , but it's no fun.
     
  6. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Farmall Cub

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    Jeez I left for half a day and this thread has become a massive death hazard warning lable... Maybe I should try a less flamable, relatively less toxic solvent. I need to start wearing gloves more D:

    Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk
     
  7. stroker3

    stroker3 Lives in an IH Dealership

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    Used gas years ago, usually used mineral spirits since then. Getting older and a bit more wimpy with some stuff now. Dawn Ultra is fairly decent. Takes a little work but I usually give it a shot first .
     
  8. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

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    I use diesel with a brush to get the heavy stuff off first.
     
  9. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Farmall Cub

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    Thats exactly what I did with the smaller castings on my np202, it took 3 months before it was soft enough to make wire wheeling practical. Same stuff that disintegrated with acetone :(

    Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk
     
  10. Jeff Jamison

    Jeff Jamison Lives in an IH Dealership

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    WOW I never had stuff that tough,scrape with putty knife,some diesel and wire wheel.
     
  11. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Farmall Cub

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    Yea, i honestly couldnt tell if this stuff was bedliner underneath.
    Edit: it definatly wasnt bed liner, if it had been it wouldn't have suprised me though.

    Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk
     
  12. mallen

    mallen High Wheeler

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    If you live someplace hot in the summer, you can sit it in the sun and let it get hit, the spray it with Foamy Engine Brite. Melts the gunk right off.
     
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  13. Gunfighter97

    Gunfighter97 Farmall Cub

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    Is 104 in the shade hot enough? XD

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  14. Dana Strong

    Dana Strong Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Isn't that an aerosol version of Gunk?
     
  15. mallen

    mallen High Wheeler

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    thats perfect.
     
  16. mallen

    mallen High Wheeler

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    Not sure
     
  17. mongocanfly

    mongocanfly Binder Driver

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    When I was trying to clean my transfer case up, it had 60 yrs of buildup on it...i tried all the less lethal stuff on it and it didnt work...i wound up scraping all I could,,,had to use putty knife and hammer and screwdriver to get some loose it was stuck on so bad...then I used mineral spirits and diesel fuel from there with a wire brush... it was alot of work to get it clean...but I finally got it...I would be cautious using anything that's highly flammable....I may have mentioned before in other posts I had 5gal of gas blow up from static,in my face, ...just not worth it
     
  18. kevingweq

    kevingweq Y-Block King

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    Not sure I want to open this can of worms ...... the most effective grease/gunk/petrified IH transfer case armor dissolver I have used is LYE
    5 or 6 lbs in 30 gallons of water will strip engine blocks almost as fast as you can dunk them, Gloves, face mask long sleeve shirts and pants all necessary
    some form of neutralizer in case of accidental contact is necessary also , please do all the research for safety sake
     
  19. Don B

    Don B Farmall Cub

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    Yeh, forgot about the lye trick! Hot lye solution is even better. For sure use all the protective gear required, nasty stuff. Try the Zep for a less intrusive degreaser. I also make a trip to the local car wash and spray some degreaser on larger items sometimes and pressure wash the he** out of it. Still hard to get the tar like formations off but a good start for large items.
    Be safe whatever method you use. BTW, lye does a great job on old glass jars, etc.

    Don B
     
  20. Dana Strong

    Dana Strong Dreams of Cub Cadets

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    Unless one has a large commercial operation specifically set up for handling large parts like engine blocks and has really good protective equipment that's used properly, sodium hydroxide is too caustic to use for this purpose, IMP(rofessional)O. It doesn't take much gotten into an eye to cause serious pain and damage, and that's easier to have happen than you might think. Also, getting rid of that much chemical when done is no simple matter, and storing a used solution has its problems too.

    Yes, it dissolves glass (and SiO2 sand) forming various sodium silicates; more so at higher temperatures and under pressure, as in an autoclave. What are you trying to clean the jars of?
     

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